Also.... I am in South Carolina, so I will not be able to help retrieve/load/etc, but I am interested in coordinating with others in purchasing some of the PDP-11 items if we can work it out.
Ashley
-----Original Message-----
From: wacarder(a)usit.net
Sent: Apr 14, 2004 9:25 AM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Truckload of PDP stuff
I'm new to this mailing list, but have been following it for a month or more. I'm interested in the 11/40 from the truckload of stuff. I have been wanting to reconstruct a replica of my college computer from the late 1970s. I have recreated it in Bob Supnik's simulator, but would like to be able to get my hands on the real stuff!
Has anyone actually seen the stuff in that "truckload"?
Ashley Carder
>That's a very poor test,
Its not the most ideal, but I wanted to recommend something he could try
easily to give him a quick and dirty answer.
>and the quantity is not what matters to the
>chemicals partaking (or not) in the reaction :-) The local heat
>capacity is.
Wrong. You need sufficient fuel to oxygen mix. Too little fuel or too
little o2, and it won't burn. My guess (and it was a guess, based on what
I know about fires), is the 3 in 1 oil that was on the fuser was too low
of a quantity to burn freely. That does NOT mean it won't smolder, it
just means you won't get a flame. I'd expect that there was a negligible
amount of oil actually on the fuser.
The heat capacity is but one factor in starting and sustaining a fire.
There are 4 parts needed for a fire: fuel, oxygen, heat, chemical
reaction. Remove any one, the fire goes out. All 4 have to be in the
correct "zone" for a fire to happen (what that zone is differs based on
fuel)
>The concrete keeps the oil much cooler than is required
>to *sustain* burning,
That's actually the point of using it. It won't sustain burning. When the
heat source is removed, the fire will go out on its own. However, a match
(which burns upward of 1000 degrees) will be sufficient to test the 320
degree limit of the oil to see if there is enough fuel to start a fire.
>Pour half a cup of petrol (er, gasoline) into a bucket
>of water, drop in a match, and watch the match go out...
You do that... I'll video tape. Gasoline floats on water, unless you
chase that cup of gas with the match, the gas will rapidly move to the
surface and start vaporizing. Your match will probably ignite the fumes
half way into the bucket, resulting in a nice POP as the remaining gas
bursts into flame... right on the surface of the water. Should be for a
fun video to watch. (we carry foam on our fire trucks specifically to
combat situations like gasoline fires... if you have a gasoline fire, DO
NOT add water... you just end up with a bigger gasoline fire.)
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
I'm new to this mailing list, but have been following it for a month or more. I'm interested in the 11/40 from the truckload of stuff. I have been wanting to reconstruct a replica of my college computer from the late 1970s. I have recreated it in Bob Supnik's simulator, but would like to be able to get my hands on the real stuff!
Has anyone actually seen the stuff in that "truckload"?
Ashley Carder
Hi there.
I got a few SGI Indys recently, and I would like to get them to work. I
do not have a Sync on Green monitor, however, I have read that the Indy
outputs a composite signal, not unlike Sun hardware. I have a Sun 13w3
adaptor (which I know does not work in pristine state with the SGI
machine), and I would like to use it to connect my Samsung SyncMaster
750s to my Indy.
*http://groups.google.com/groups?q=Sun+13W3+SGI+Indy&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=3C9C795E.60FCC62%40freenet.de&rnum=6
<--* I found this reference to the pinout of Sun and SGI equipment...but
I can't make heads or tails of what I would to to the adaptor to make it
work with my monitor.
Thanks,
Phil.
Although the CRT in question is off-topic, the question is fairly topical:
Is there any way to remove physical blemishes from the face of a CRT?
I've got a very nice 19" SVGA display that has some scratches on the face.
They are somewhat invisible unless you happen to be looking at something
at that part of the screen (lower third, right of center).
Can this be buffed out or ... ?
I hope there's a way to do this because I've been wanting to fix the face
of my 35" ProScan TV that has the same problem. You barely notice it, but
it is slightly distracting when you do.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
On Apr 14, 1:16, der Mouse wrote:
> > Sorry, I don't know what white spirit is called in the
> > States, it's similar to kerosene but lighter and leaves no residue.
> > It's most often used here for thinning oil-based paints, or
cleaning
> > paint brushes.
>
> This is probably the substance I (brought up in the USA of USA
parents)
> learned to call "mineral spirits".
That sounds imminently plausible -- thanks!
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
On Apr 13, 11:48, R. D. Davis wrote:
> Last night, I made the mistake of putting some 3-in-1 oil (yes, I
> know, it's not a good lubricant) in the bushings around the teflon
> roller (that the heater lamp runs through) in my Laserjet II when I
> disassembled the fuser to replace a worn 14-tooth gear. I should
have
> done a more thorough disassembly and used grease rated for use with
> high temperatures... anyway, what concerns me is the low flash point
> for the 3-in-1 (if what's in the can I used is the same as the spray;
> the spray is all I could find data for, flash point about 101 degrees
> F).
3-in-1 oil is a perfectly good light machine oil. It *is* a good
lubricant -- for the things it was designed for. You shouldn't have
used it where you did, but neither should you have used grease; teflon
bearings are designed to run dry against polished steel.
I'd expect the flash point of the spray is so low because of the
propellant. The flash point of the oil itself will be much higher.
However, you don't really want it in there. The best thing to do is
to disassemble it again and wipe off as much as you can. If necessary,
white spirit (turpentine substitute) will wash out the residue. Sorry,
I don't know what white spirit is called in the States, it's similar to
kerosene but lighter and leaves no residue. It's most often used here
for thinning oil-based paints, or cleaning paint brushes.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
The low flash point of spray is more than likely coming from vehicle used
for spray. As for 3-in-1 oil, I heard there is nothing predictable in that,
they just put any old thing that is at hand; stuff is intended for household
use. A lubrication guy, who is also on Tecscope group, was saying that most
of content of 3-in-1 is vegetable oil. Those oils oxidize easily in air,
what leads to gumming up and higher temperature just speeds up the process.
Regards
Miroslav Pokorni
The 3M have a material for polishing glass in form similar to Scotchbrite. I
do not know the exact name but I believe it is a variation on Scotchbrite.
Actually, material is Scotchbrite with polishing powder imbedded. I heard of
people using it to polish out scratches on eyeglasses.
Regards
Miroslav Pokorni
SGI started out as a startup based on Jim Clark's Geometry Engine work at
Stanford in the early 80's. The earliest products were based on the SUN
(Stanford University Network) CPU board design with some enhancements.
http://futuretech.mirror.vuurwerk.net/iris-faq.html
appears to be the only copy of the original FAQ I helped with years ago.
