>Actually the IIfx is a nice machine. 68040 40mhz and decent fx performance.
>uses special memory though.
'040?
68030 at 40 MHz
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Hi folks,
Rescued the following last night, amongst some other stuff:
* 3 large cards from a DG Nova system (?) around 16" square.
- one marked "BASIC IO CONTROL DGC NOVA (C) 1968 DATA GENERAL CORP"
This has a small board numbered 70-00196 which appears to have been
retrofitted, judging by the number of blue wires running to it
from the board itself. This seems to be in good shape.
- two related ones, one marked "TELETYPE PLOTTER WITH ALPHANUMERICS
ISSUE 1" and then in the top corner "LINK SYSTEMS LTD MADE IN ENGLAND"
2 ICs are missing and one is smashed open, and this board has a 3" or so
rip in it
- the other marked "TELETYPE PLOTTER WITH ALPHANUMERICS OPTIONS/Q.E.D."
2 ICs are missing from this one. 2 presets mounted on one side of this
board look the worse for wear.
* Motorola VME? board of some kind. 68020 CPU, 2/3 of VME height (has 2
of the VME-style connectors on one side), 50-pin IDC header on the
opposite side, along with 2 switches, 2 red LEDs and 2 green LEDs.
* "Opus" badged ADC MM-211 mono monitor, slight screenburn at bottom of
CRT, has a DE9 connector with only 6 pins fitted. CGA/EGA?
The above are free to good home - you pay postage or collect from near
Leeds, UK.
Not sure whether these are worth anything or not:
* 2 BOC Edwards vacuum meters, one marked "PENNING 8" and one marked
"PIRANI 11". About 4"x6" faces, panel mount, mains powered. Each one
has a switch to select between ranges, and inputs on the back for the
metering hardware.
* Watkins-Johnson WJ-269-I Low Noise Amplifier, 2.3-4.5GHz in weird cylindrical
black case, 110-120VAC.
* Marconi "TF 868B Universal Bridge". Seems in nice condition except for
what look like two sets of concentric knobs on the top panel of the unit
have been smashed, and the top plate is cracked where this has happened.
Make me an offer I can't refuse ;)
I'd like Real Money(TM) for the following:
* Farnell PU164A rack-mounted telco PSU, provides +5V, +/-12V, -50V, all @
big amps by the looks of the output busbars that were attached to it.
Has mains lead, which is just as well as it uses a Bulgin 3-pin mains
connector rather than an IEC320 socket. 2U I think. Weighs 12.5kg
according to a sticker on it.
* Half height (waist height) 19" rack, in fetching chocolate brown colour
with folding handles on both sides. Has a piece of kitchen work surface
on the top in an attractive pine finish ;) Put your servers in your kitchen?
(The ultimate in domestically-acceptable 19" racks maybe?) Has big castors
for ease of shiftage.
Again, please make an offer by email if you're interested, otherwise they
hit ePay.
And the following I'll most likely keep, but anything anyone can tell me
about it would be much appreciated (specifically what's needed in terms of
hardware/software to control it):
* HP computer-controlled test & measurement system, comprising:
- 61001A System Power Unit
- 61010A Digital I/O
- 61011A Relay Mux
- 61012A Dual Voltage DAC
- 61013A Digital Multimeter
- 61014A Function Generator
- 61015A Counter
- 61016A Digitizing Oscilloscope
- 61017A Relay Actuator
I had thought these would be HPIB, but the cable (26-way ribbon) looks nothing
like it. Any/all info about these would be most handy.
And now to the "rainwater" bit - I found all this in a skip (or "dumpster"
for those of you of a North American persuasion) which was outside, so these
things have been being rained on (except the telco PSU, which was in the rack
and so will have been protected from rain). I haven't opened any of them up
yet to check for corrosion, but I've spotted some rust on the edge of the
casing of the 61001A already. What's the best way to deal with this stuff
to prevent any further damage, and rectify (if necessary) any that the
water has caused, if indeed it's caused any at all? Other than obvious
corrosion, how would I tell? None of it was lying in standing water, FWIW -
I don't think there was any in the skip, and this stuff was all well above
it.
TIA,
Ed.
Well, the Mac II is rather big and heavy although I guess you can stack other
Mac models on top of it. I prefer the toaster macs since they are what people
think of when you say macintosh.
Actually the IIfx is a nice machine. 68040 40mhz and decent fx performance.
uses special memory though.
witchy(a)binarydinosaurs.co.uk writes:
It would be for me, but I've already got one. Is there much interest for
original Macs here? I'm beginning to wonder after nobody replied to me
question about a dead Mac IIfx last week
Has anyone worked on, or thought about working on, a "price guide"
specifically for PDP-11 (or PDP-8, or VAX) hardware? I know of Michael
Nadeu's book for microcomputers (which I keep meaning to buy), but this
is really a different realm of things, as you can configure (for
example) a PDP-11/23 in a whole lot more ways than you could with a
C-64. I've thought "hmm, this would really be handy" a few times
before, but haven't had much time to sit down and work on it.
It'd be nice if I could keep it up to date, and use multiple data
sources (not just past marketplace.vintage.org sales), including eBay
and semi-private sales. Also, a "rarity" quantity of some sort would
be useful, and could just be "very rare" for, say, the preverbial 11/74
(the one that's supposedly 2 CPUs), to "common" for an 11/23.
Thoughts?
Pat
--
Purdue University ITAP/RCS --- http://www.itap.purdue.edu/rcs/
The Computer Refuge --- http://computer-refuge.org
I thought long and hard about posting this on the list, not wanting to draw
attention to it as it's in an odd category on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3092118791&category=6403…
It's an HP 7900A drive, looks to be in great shape, and includes 7 pieces of
media. After a long pause I decided I had enough of these. Odd, there was a
day when I'd give my left arm for one of these, now I have a couple. So
Ashley, here's an example - keep looking and the stuff does show up. Someone
please get this drive and don't let it go to the scrapper! Also, make sure
to get the 13215A power supply for this drive the seller also has under a
separate auction, the drive is worthless without it. And do NOT use the
media for this drive in a 7905/06, or vice versa, they look the same but
you'll be really sorry :) If no one bids or wants this drive I may bid on it
just to save it but I'd rather see someone else get it.
The same seller is also selling a pretty nice 1000E cpu, a 12979 I/O
expansion unit stuffed with cards, and another auction with keyboard and
some cables.
I can tell the 1000E cpu does have the right controller in it for this drive
(dual 13210 interface).
But please don't anyone bid on the DSU he has up in a separate auction, I
want that very badly!!! :)
Jay West
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
Rich,
I am emailing you to see if you still have an 8" floppy drive for sale. If
so I would like to purchase one.
Sean S.
_________________________________________________________________
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Does anyone on this list have any of the following
items that they would be interested in getting rid of:
PDP 11/40 with rack and RK05 drive(s)
VT50 or VT52 DecScope
LA36 Decwriter
RK05 pack with RSTS/E
I would like to attempt to reconstruct the computer
that my friends and I used in college from 1975-80.
Our former professor who was also director of the
computer center and is now retired has indicated that
he might offer some assistance in reconstructing the
environment if we can find a PDP 11/40. Our college
junked their 11/40 in 1989 or shortly thereafter. The
new generation of computer people there "cleaned up"
old junk and threw away anything that was left from
the 11/40 that we knew and loved.
We have created a pretty faithful replica using Bob
Supnik's emulator and have it available via TELNET
on the internet. Several of us had complete prints
>from the late 70s of all the source programs on the
system. It was running RSTS/E with Basic Plus. It took
a while to find someone with a soft copy of the
Basic Plus version of ADVENTure, but I was able to get
a copy from someone who was in Project Delta and
have loaded that to our RK05 disk image for our
simulated 11/40.
We would like to get our hands on the real hardware
so we can feel the heat and hear the fans whirring
once again!
Thanks for any and all help that anyone can provide!
Ashley
>> Thanks for the info - I did a bit of looking and found
>> several references once I mentioned "Atari 400" - turns out
>> the supplies are AC, which probably explains why your DMM is
>> having trouble determining the polarity.
>
>Interesting - the one I've got here has DC markings on it! Now I'm confused.
Really! - is it the original supply? I'd really like to know FOR SURE before I try
and power this thing up - I think tonight I will take it apart and look to see if
there is an internal rectifier/filter/regulator etc.
Btw, Here are some links so the AC references:
http://www.vidgame.net/misc_utility/cross_ref.htmhttp://www.faqs.org/faqs/atari-8-bit/faq/section-35.htmlhttp://www.myoldcomputers.com/museum/comp/atari400.htm
>The only Atari machine that didn't have DOS built in out of the box was the
>400. All the rest from the 800 upwards supported disks because they had the
>extra memory and ROM commands. It's a while since I've played with any of my
>1050s though, but I know where the disks are if nobody with easier access
>comes up first.
Can you (or anyone else) tell me how to access the DOS in ROM? Basically, I
would like to format a disk and write/read something to verify that the drive
is working - as noted previously, I have no diskettes at all for this drive.
Regards,
--
dave04a (at) Dave Dunfield
dunfield (dot) Firmware development services & tools: www.dunfield.com
com Vintage computing equipment collector.
I've got a bashed up TRS-80 model 12 sans keyboard, so...
Can anybody out there give me the specs for the keyboard
connector? Looks like a 5 pin DIN, I guess a serial
connection of some kind. I need both the wiring (which
pin is which) and the comm specs (baud rate, etc.). It
is probably the same as the keyboard for the model 2 and
model 16, in case that helps.
Alternatively, if anybody has an appropriate keyboard to
spare, that would be great too!
Also, while I'm asking, can anybody recommend a kind
of glue for putting the shell back together? The poor
thing took some damage in shipping. It looks like some
kind of resin. Acetone did not seem to have any effect
on the stuff. I've put a few bits together with "super
glue" (cyanoacrylate), but have doubts about it holding
very well.
Thanks!
Bill.
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