test-drb May 2003

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

284 participants
500 discussions

by kempfj2＠rpi.edu

Hey, I'm trying to diagnose and fix my VAX 6000, which seems to have rather nasty power-supply problems. Specifically, I need to know what voltages come out of the H405-E. I know about the 208VAC phase-to-phase from the circular plug on the back. I need to know what the other jacks output, specifically the mate-n-lock ones. I'd appreciate it if anyone could probe around a 6000 with a multimeter and get back to me. Cheers, Jesse Kempf Tender, Ye Olde Foo Bar, and Grill. Tamer of Unices and VAXen. Electrical Engineering Major Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute Microsoft programmers are the stormtroopers of the Lord of Entropy

21 years, 7 months

Running PCs on 12v

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "John Allain" <allain(a)panix.com> > >Here's a pretty damn dumb question. > Can 5v regulators just be stacked up to get > more than 100mA? > One possibility is that the weakest one would > go first, then the rest after it's dead. > >John A. > Hi John There are ways to parallel these but most cause either loss of voltage regulation or current hogging. The the TO-220 packages are designed to handle 1 amp but for any of these, you need to consider heat sinking and total power drop. You may find that power drop will over load before current is reached. Most newer regulators are designed to both thermal and current shutdown safely. Like anything that is being stressed, running like this for a long time tends to shorten their life. Also, paralleling can cause oscillations. Especially if not all the regulators are running near their maximum levels. Proper bypassing is more critical when doing this. Dwight

21 years, 7 months

Sage-II

by paul＠grumpy.co.uk

Hi guys, Anyone got one of these beasties? I picked it up last year or the year before, in one of those daft runaway auctions, obviously ending up paying way more than it was worth. Unfortunately there was no OS with it, so it's currently a small, oblong shaped doorstop. Can anyone help me? Cheers, Paul.

21 years, 7 months

Removing duct tape residue.

by rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com

At 05:06 AM 1/29/03 -0600, Toth wrote: > >> For cleaning computer plastics, the absolute best product I've found (in >> the US) is Hoppe's No. 9 Powder Solvent. Found at your local sporting >> goods store. Even removes PERMANENT Sharpie. > >Has anyone tried removing Sharpie from a chassis with textured paint? I >have a couple of items that were marked up with a Sharpie, and short of >paint thinner (which seems to dilute and bury the ink in the paint while >damaging the texture), I've found nothing that seems to work. I've used alcohol on that stuff and it seems to remove some but not all of it. I've never found anything that would remove it completely. Joe

21 years, 7 months

Can anyone tellme why a Name plate goes for over $135

by jrkeys＠concentric.net

This Apple II name plate sold for over $135 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2729182422

21 years, 7 months

Data transfer from Apple ][ to PC

by cb＠mythtech.net

>I've got 2 IIgs' here, a ROM 00 one signed by the man himself and a ROM 03 >one. This means I only need a Shiva bridge....:) *hint to Mike Ford :o))* Do you not have access to a Mac built before the switch to USB? If you do, just use the serial localtalk port on it and skip using a bridge entirely, unless you have some reason that you need to go to Ethernet with the IIgs. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

21 years, 7 months

Did you guys ever find a source for any TIL306's?

by wa7duy＠charter.net

Hello Joe. I ran across your message at http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/2003-January/007306.html about the TIL306. Did you or Toth ever find any TIL306's? I am also looking for some (8 of them to be exact) and like you and Toth have been able to find several TIL311's but no TIL306's. Thank you. Jim Pruitt http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/2003-January/007306.html and http://www.classiccmp.org/pipermail/cctech/2003-January/007252.html substitute for TI TIL306/307 Display? Joe cctech(a)classiccmp.org Mon Jan 6 01:37:30 2003 a.. Previous message: substitute for TI TIL306/307 Display? b.. Next message: Pinout for EECO Tape Reader? c.. Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ] ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- At 01:18 AM 1/4/03 -0600, you wrote: > >I have the datasheet for the 311 in pdf format if you'd like me to email >it to you. The 311 has a built-in BCD decoder, but not a counter, like the >306/307. I need the counter function but I'd like a copy of the PDF anyway. > >> > I'll make a note to check a couple of my local surplus dealers over >> > the next few weeks. If I find any TIL306 displays, I'll pick them up. >> > Should I also hunt for any 307s? >> >> 306's or 307s will work equally well. The one difference between them is >> that one has the decimal point to the left of the digit and the other >> has the dp on the right. My unit doesn't use the decimal points so >> either display will work fine. > >Ok, thats what I wanted to be sure of. Often devices didn't use the >decimal points, but I didn't want to assume that was the case. > >> > If all else fails, would it be possible to salvage your displays? I've >> > carefully ground back ceramic and plastic on other dip components to >> > attach replacement leads in the past, but it isn't a fun task... >> >> It's possible but all the leads on them are weak and I'd probably have >> to eventually replace ALL the leads. > >Been there, done that. I have a pile of early 74244s and other 7400 series >logic chips that have nearly nothing left of their leads due to the foam >that were stored in for roughly 15-20 years. Same here. I squirreled away a lot of parts over the years but found that many of them were damaged due to the foam. Fortunately I've get some pretty good scrap sources and I've been finding lots of military grade cards with socketed ICs in the last couple of years so I've been picking them up and pulling the ICs and storing them in parts cabinets. I've amassed a huge stock in just the last year. I was also lucky last year and picked up a good number of parts cabinets that have all the drawers made out of anti-static material. I had been keeping the parts in anti-static foam for AS protestion but now I don't have to. .Thankfully, the TIL311s and >most of the other chips that came in the same batch of parts didn't have >the same problem, though their leads had to be cleaned. I have a fair number of 308 and 311 displays that I've pulled from cards and the local surplus place has plenty of them but the 306/307s seem to be scarce. Joe > >-Toth > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- a.. Previous message: substitute for TI TIL306/307 Display? b.. Next message: Pinout for EECO Tape Reader? c.. Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]

21 years, 7 months

Removing duct tape residue.

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Peter Turnbull" <pete(a)dunnington.u-net.com> > >On May 16, 15:28, Joe wrote: >> MEK has all but been banned in the US and is just about impossible >for an >> individual to obtain. Besides it EATS plastic! > >I believe it's still commonly used for certain industrial processes. > Yes, it does attack plastic -- that's it's principal use :-) Ditto >for actone. > >-- >Pete Peter Turnbull > Network Manager > University of York > Hi I used to use it to remove conformal(sp?) coating. It didn't dissolve it but softened it enough to be peeled off. It would have to soak for about ten minutes to even do that. Dwight

21 years, 7 months

Duct-tape residue

by jontitus＠attbi.com

To remove the residue from non-water-soluble adhesives left behind by masking tape, labels, duct tape, electrical tape, etc., I've used xylene or xylol with good results. You can find this fluid sold under the brand names "Goof Off," or "Oops!" in the paint sections of hardware stores. (It removed latex-based paint drips or "slop" from trim, baseboards, floors, etc.) Some hardware stores may sell plain xylene, too. Use outdoors, and try it on any material before going all out. It will dissolve some plastics such as polystyrene. As a fallback, you can use denatured ethyl alcohol (ethanol). Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol, a.k.a. isopropanol) as sold in pharmacies contains a lot of water and it doesn't do a good job. Jon Jon Titus 36 Sunset Drive Milford, MA 01757-1362 USA Phone: +1-508-478-8040 E-mail: jontitus(a)attbi.com Member, National Association of Science Writers

21 years, 7 months

Leaving the hobby

by charlesmorris＠direcway.com

> I am leaving the hobby/lifestyle of classic computing. There's a classic computing LIFESTYLE??? No one told me! How do I get one? > I will not participate in any discussion of the reason. OK, so we will just speculate wildly and discuss it without you ;) > The decision has been made. Sounds like someone decided for you. Best of luck, anyway. When I'm tired of my PDP-8, Sinclair ZX-81, VIC-20, Apple //e, etc. I just put them back in the closet for a while. -Charles

21 years, 7 months

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test-drb May 2003