test-drb April 2003

test-drb@ccmp.vtda.org

272 participants
486 discussions

Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter gears

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

Hi As long as the load is not that great, one can whack out the center with a drill and then notch it with a file. The drill needs to be larger than the OD of the inner splins. You then fill the voids with a mixture of epoxie and fiber glass wool. Using something like JB Weld will make the material as hard as most plastics. To keep things aligned while the epoxie is setting, make a jig to hold things by drilling some concentric holes in layers of plywood that are bolted together, for alignment. You need to put a wax surface on the plywood where the epoxie will be so it doesn't stick. It isn't real clean looking but should be functional. Dwight >From: "Mail List" <mail.list(a)analog-and-digital-solutions.com> > >Hello Ethan, > >Internal splines, which is basically what that extrusion die would be are >much harder to do than cutting gear teeth on the OD of a gear blank. >The internal splines would have to be done on a slotter ( or possibly >a shaper with the right set up, i.e. some cutting machine with a linear >reciprocating cutting motion ) or cut into the die with EDM or wire >EDM processes. Much more difficult, and therefore more expensive >manufacturing processes. Original gears probably were shot in a >plastic injection mold, but the mold making is very expensive too, and >not something to do for very small production runs. Too bad you couldn't >find someone with a broach, because broaching internal splines might >not be as expensive a manufacturing process as long as you found >someone with the broach already made up. To have a tool and die maker >have to make a broach would also be expensive. Also extrusion die blank >material would have too not be too hard to broach. But then you have to >have the extrusion process set up and run. All in all, if you can't find them >already made up, milling the teeth into blanks or slotting on a lathe are >probably going to be your only really feasible options. > >Best Regards > > > > >At 08:13 AM 4/22/03 -0700, you wrote: >>Having worked out the pitch of the broken drive gears (120), and >>having looked on a couple of web sites _and_ contacted someone >>at Boston Gear, it's looking grim. >> >>According to the e-mail I got back, Boston Gear doesn't carry anything >>finer than a pitch of 64. When I asked who did carry such gears, the >>answer was: "I am not familiar with any company that makes miniature >>gearing." :-( >> >>My goal all along has been to find a company that has a bag of these >>on the shelf. I had no idea it was such an unusual item. I don't >>relish the idea of fabrication, but maybe that's what we're facing. >> >>Rather than machining each gear, I wonder how hard it would be to >>make an extrusion die to pump out a long gear and cut it into 5/32" >>slices? >> >>-ethan >>The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo >>http://search.yahoo.com

21 years, 3 months

Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter gears

by erd_6502＠yahoo.com

Having worked out the pitch of the broken drive gears (120), and having looked on a couple of web sites _and_ contacted someone at Boston Gear, it's looking grim. According to the e-mail I got back, Boston Gear doesn't carry anything finer than a pitch of 64. When I asked who did carry such gears, the answer was: "I am not familiar with any company that makes miniature gearing." :-( My goal all along has been to find a company that has a bag of these on the shelf. I had no idea it was such an unusual item. I don't relish the idea of fabrication, but maybe that's what we're facing. Rather than machining each gear, I wonder how hard it would be to make an extrusion die to pump out a long gear and cut it into 5/32" slices? -ethan The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo http://search.yahoo.com

21 years, 3 months

Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter gears

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>From: "Peter C. Wallace" <pcw(a)mesanet.com> > >On Tue, 22 Apr 2003, Ethan Dicks wrote: > >> --- "Dwight K. Elvey" <dwightk.elvey(a)amd.com> wrote: >> > Hi >> > As long as the load is not that great, one can whack >> > out the center with a drill and then notch it with a file. >> > The drill needs to be larger than the OD of the inner splins. >> > You then fill the voids with a mixture of epoxie and >> > fiber glass wool... >> >> That sounds interesting for a large enough gear, but in this case, >> it's about 1/8" in diameter and 5/32" long with a bore of 1/20". >> >> I don't think I'll be trying to whack and/or notch a chunk of >> plastic that's smaller than a tic-tac. > >How about making a silicone mold from an original gear and making copies out >of some kind of plastic or epoxy resin? > >> >> -ethan >> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo >> http://search.yahoo.com >> > >Peter Wallace > Like minds! Dwight

21 years, 3 months

Coming up dry for Alps/Radio Shack/Atari/Commodore plotter gears

by dwightk.elvey＠amd.com

>To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org > >On Tue, 22 Apr 2003, Ethan Dicks wrote: > >> That sounds interesting for a large enough gear, but in this case, it's >> about 1/8" in diameter and 5/32" long with a bore of 1/20". >> >> I don't think I'll be trying to whack and/or notch a chunk of plastic >> that's smaller than a tic-tac. > >What type of plastic were these gears made from? I was thinking about >pulling out one of my plotters, but I don't exactly remember where I put >it right now ;P > >If they are made of nylon, I'm surprised that they split. I really expect >to find that they were made of some kind of ABS or ABS blended plastic >that didn't handle the press-fit pressure very well. > >Has anyone contacted Alps to see if maybe they might know where the gears >were made originally? It's certainly possible a set of molds might still >be sitting around somewhere... > >-Toth > Hi I've seen this same kind of failure in a small Automatic Kodak camera. One other thought would be to make a mold with a good gear and use that to make new gears using something like JB Weld ( I do like this stuff ). You'd mold the gear on the shaft so that there would be no tendency to split the gear from pressing it together. The gear in the camera looked like it was a nylon gear and not the typical plastic. I didn't make a check on it though. Dwight

21 years, 3 months

Two new Apple toys

by healyzh＠aracnet.com

> > These would also work in a IIgs wouldn't they? > > Probably, but you don't need one for a ROM 03 IIgs -- they have built-in > boot-over-LocalTalk support. I wish I had a ROM 03 IIgs, but then I also wish I had room to have my IIe and IIgs setup. Unfortunatly all my Apple II stuff is in storage. :^( Zane

21 years, 3 months

F/U HP 9134A HDD problem

by rhahm＠nycap.rr.com

Hello, I want to give some follow up on my problem interfacing a 9134A HDD to my HP 85. Nothing seemed to work and I was about to toss it when I decided to follow the advice of Alex Knight and vp**. Alex suggested removing the HDD and trying to initialize each one of the 4 logical drives with the HDD on it's side, "to loosen things up a bit". I took the top off, and hey, does HP use the biggest darn capacitors you have ever seen or what? There are two side by side capacitors in there that look like sticks of dynamite. Mindful of these I had the first screw holding the drive out when I noticed under a big dust ball that the ribbon cable connection from the HDD to the PCB was loose. I pushed it back on and to my delight everything now works fine! After a little detailing she looks and works great. Thanks again for your help. >I am having trouble interfacing an HP 9134 HDD to my HP 85. I have connected >other drives without difficulty such as the 9121D so I believe the computer >is set up properly. >I recently picked up a 9134A HD. It apparently emulates a 9895A 8" flexible >drive and 3 slaves each with 1.15MB capacity. >I set the HP-IB address to zero on the HD and typed MASS STORAGE is ":D700". >I then typed CAT and Initialize and keep getting a "Timeout". Also if I turn >the 85 on with the HD connected and running and type CAT the HD does not >respond as my 9121 would without typing a mass storage is command. >Can I assume the drive is bad or am I using the wrong syntax. The drive >spins up nicely, and the light comes on but I get that error message and the >disk access light does not come on. >I hate to toss this drive into the dumpster if it is functional. >Thank you for your thoughts. <Bob H

21 years, 3 months

KIM-1 question

by ssj152＠charter.net

I recently got a KIM-1 Rev. A (on eBay) and have a question about it. This particular model, the Revision A, doesn't say Commodore, and has a low (< 3000) serial number on it. What it DOES have, is a PIN 10 of U26 is cut in half, and a twisted pair of wires are attached 1) at the chip, and 2) at the board. The end of the wires not connected to U26 is not connected to anything other than each other. The schematic showing this component is in the KIM-1 User Manual, section 3.7 Is this part of a known mod for the KIM-1? It looks to me like it might have been used with a switch on the free end to select half duplex (open) and full duplex (closed) for the TTY interface. Your suggestions and comments are solicited. Regards, Stuart Johnson

21 years, 3 months

HP storage formats on ss80 protocol disks

by peterbrown10＠hotmail.com

Hi Joe and Paxton?, Joe, I'm using device level calls to the NI GPIB board via the GPIB-32.DLL so any NI card that uses this driver should work - that includes NI ISA based cards (TNT-GPIB etc.), PCI cards (PCI-GPIB - the one that I'm using) and probably the PCMCIA-GPIB as well. For the record, my development machine is XP based though any Win32 operating system should be OK. I'm going to try to tidy the code up a little - if people think that the idea of making an online catalog of files is a good one then I have no problem with making this application available to help making it. Paxton, Apologies if Paxton is where you live and not your name - I live in the UK so my knowledge of US place names is a little lacking! My development machine has two GPIB cards in it both are PCI based - one is an NI PCI-GPIB card, the other an HP 82350 card. The NI configuration utility only displays the NI card that is installed in the machine however the HP utility shows both cards. It may be that the HP card can be controlled using the NI software but I haven't tried it yet - I'll have a play this evening. If the HP PCI based card can be recognised then it is possible that an HP ISA card would be OK. If not then it should be OK to use an NI ISA based GPIB card (around $20 on e-bay). I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers Peter Brown _________________________________________________________________ Stay in touch with absent friends - get MSN Messenger http://www.msn.co.uk/messenger

21 years, 3 months

Radio Shack/Science Fair bonus

by cb＠mythtech.net

>I found this: > > http://support.radioshack.com/support_games/3183.htm > >... but that is dozens, not hundreds. I could not find anything on >their website for the "10-in-1" kit (but I could find "30-in-1" and >"200-in-1"). > >Am I looking in the wrong place? You're looking in the right place... looks like they just don't have that one. And I didn't mean hundreds in that catagory, I meant hundreds of manuals in total. Unless they have removed a bunch recently. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

21 years, 3 months

FREE Some kind of SIMM card

by cb＠mythtech.net

I have some kind of 72 pin SIMM card here. I am pretty sure I pulled it >from a dying Zenith 386 before the PC was scrapped. The only label on it says JABIL APE 240-7929-20 I think it might be some kind of BIOS card, or Cache card. Silk screened between two chips says 32K Cache 85-3749-01. I don't know if that refers to the card, or just the two chips it is printed between. None of the other chips on the card have screened labels of value. If anyone wants it, send me your address, I'll stick it in a padded envelope and mail it out to you. -chris <http://www.mythtech.net>

21 years, 3 months

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test-drb April 2003