On Feb 11, 18:49, Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
> Can anyone suggest a safe way to remove grime that is so old and so
thick
> that the only way to remove it is to rub it off with your bare
fingers?
>
> I slathered this board in contact cleaner and it didn't do anything.
The
> grime just remained. If I rub it with my bare fingers then it will
> eventually start to rub off and leave little remainders like pencil
eraser
> droppings.
Don't use contact cleaner. Proper contact cleaner contains oil. It's
not nearly as bad as WD40, but you don't really want the board covered
in a flm of oil.
If it's just one board, try washing it in warm water with some
washing-up liquid (dishwashing detergent). If the grime is that
stubborn, assist the process with a dishwashing brush. Rinse well, dry
carefully (shake off or blow off as much water as possible, use some
IPA to help remove the water). If you're in an area with very hard
water, the final rinse before the IPA might best be done with distilled
or deionised water. Don't dry the boards flat, the object is to let as
much water (and any minerals dissolved in it) as possible to drain off.
Make sure the board is thoroughly dry, which may take a day or two,
especially if there are switches or sockets on it, before you try to
use it.
If that's too much like hard work, or you have a lot of boards to
clean, consider using the dishwasher. That's what's used commercially
(at least, for small-scale stuff). However, DON'T let it do the drying
cycle (too hot for some things) and don't use the dishwasher if the
board contains anything that might suffer: transformers, relays (unless
hermetically sealed), paper labels that must be preserved, anything
with extremely fine wires (core mats), etc. I've been told some very
old ICs (grey type) don't like being immersed in hot water. I've never
had a problem with that, but YMMV. Some old types of compressed paper
boards (Paxolin) may not like the dishwasher either. Same rules apply
about drying.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Sorry about the date... Not only did I get it wrong, but posted it in the
US convention... In your terms, it would be 2/9/01, A Sunday, at @ 00:15,
CST (GMT -5).
Cheers...
Ed Tillman
Store Automation Tech Support Specialist
Valero Energy Corporation
San Antonio, TX; USA
Phone (210) 592-3110, Fax (210) 592-2048
edward.tillman(a)valero.com <mailto:edward.tillman@valero.com>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cctalk-admin@classiccmp.org@PEUSA On Behalf Of Sellam
> Ismail <foo(a)siconic.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 12:11 AM
> To: 'cctalk(a)classiccmp.org'
> Subject: RE: Home to remove monumental grime?
>
> On Tue, 11 Feb 2003, Tillman, Edward wrote:
>
> > From what are you trying to remove the grime?
>
> A very precious board, so anything not extraordinarily safe is right out.
>
> > - Pencil erasers work in a multitude of places, on a multitude of
> things...
>
> This would probably be the best bet. In the meantime I used a paper towel
> to rub the board where the grime was and it did a decent job, but there is
> still a layer of film.
>
> > **Watch-out rubbing it off with your bare fingers: you can generate ESD
> > (static electricity) and fry sensitive circuits/components!
>
> I removed all the ICs from their sockets.
>
> > [Note: Water may actually be one of the LEAST harmful cleaners! On
> > 11/2/01, a week before the WTC debacle, my primary network server system
>
> Then that would've been 4/9/01, yes? ;)
>
> Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer
> Festival
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
> International Man of Intrigue and Danger
> http://www.vintage.org
>
> * Old computing resources for business and academia at
> www.VintageTech.com *
[demime 1.01a removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
>> At first I filled my tank at my fire house off our breathing air
>> compressor, but that got to be a pain, so I bought a small air compressor
>> (also at Sears, also about $40)
>
>You mean one of those small, tankless compressors? I went to Sears last
>night, and the cheapest tank-equipped compressor they had was $180.
>Considering the potential cheapness of used scuba gear, that's way too much
>to pay for air. Anyway, I'd always thought that those little compressors
>weren't all that great. Am I wrong?
Correct, a tankless compressor. The type sold for filling car tires or
whatever.
The one I have is pretty good considering the price, but I can't use it
directly to run my blowgun. I have to fill my storage tank, and run the
blow gun off that. The reason is, the compressor will go to 250 PSI, but
it starts at Zero and works its way up. So if I attach the blowgun
directly to it, I never get more than about 1 or 2 PSI (whatever pressure
it builds up from friction going thru the hose).
But, the compressor works very well for filling my 12 gallon air tank to
200 PSI, which then works very well for running my blowgun at 10-60 PSI
(depending on where I set the regulator).
Although used SCUBA gear is a good cheap option, you have to consider how
often you are going to fill it, and how much that is going to cost you.
Remember, if you pay $180 for a tank/compressor at Sears, that's it. From
then on out, compressed air is more or less free (electricity to power
the compressor, and maintenance costs). With a SCUBA tank, you might buy
the tank and regulator for under $100, but you will pay for each refill
(unless you know someone that has a 3000 PSI compressor... if you are
friends with a fireman, ask if their department can do it, we do for
friends and the occasional resident if they ask nicely, but then not all
FDs have their own breathing air compressor, and fewer have the
attachments for filling SCUBA gear)
If you figure $8 each, your last $80 is used up in 10 fillings. Not to
mention the time/effort/annoyance to have to fill it when it runs out at
the worst possible time. But if you don't fill the bottle offen (those
bottles hold a LOT of air at 1 atmosphere), then SCUBA might be the
cheaper, and certainly quieter option.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
Well, this is not in my 1981, 82, 84 or 85 HP catalogs. I was wondering what
resource it manages, what it plugs into? Any info out there on this? Anyone
have a 1983 HP catalog they could check? or maybe a 1980?
It works with the HP 9825, 9835 & 9845 series of computers from the early
1980s. On the other end is an Amphenol 50 pin female connector, similar to
early SCSI 1 connectors.
Pictures at:
http://members.aol.com/innfosale/ebay/98029A1A.JPGhttp://members.aol.com/innfosale/ebay/98029A1B.JPG
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks a lot.
Paxton
Astoria, OR
Can anybody tell me more about this core memory assembly ?
The assembly consists of three wire-wrapped "BICM9" backplanes, one
of these holds four 8K x 9 core memory boards, the other two contain
several modules with names like "M9INH", "M9SNS" and "M9SEL".
Logic on the various boards appears to be mixed TTL/DTL (!) in
standard DIL packages, most boards are from 1972.
Pictures:
http://www.digischool.nl/~erikb/identify.html
Thanks in advance,
Erik.
Second time around, I won an ELT-320 on ePay... unfortunately, this one
has no PSU. Could one of the owners of one on this list e-mail me
the pinouts? From the auction I _didn't_ win, it appears that it
takes +12VDC @ 2.5A. The question is how/where. The picture seems
to suggest that's it's via a DIN-5 connector at the corner of the
back side.
Thanks for any help.
-ethan
On Feb 11, 15:07, Patrick Finnegan wrote:
> I picked up an Iris 4D/80 'deskside' monster, sans drives, with
digital
> video I/O capabilites and 'analog' video output and 'VTR' control
today
> from Purdue Salvage. I don't have a whole lot of documentation on
the
> system (well, basically none), and about all I do know is that the
> processor board seems to be filled with RAM and it has BNC jacks on
the
> back panel for connection to a monitor.
>
> Can anyone tell me what versions of IRIX might work with this system
> and/or where to pick up a copy? I'd love to see if I could get this
thing
> running again.
It should be capable of running IRIX 5.3, but unless it's unusual and
has more than 16MB of RAM, you'd be better off with 4.0.5 (last version
was 4.0.5f). Also the graphics may not be supported fully in 5.3,
depending on what options you've got. A useful place to start looking
for information is the 4DFAQ (also known as "This Old SGI") which
you'll find at
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Pines/2258/4dfaq.html
Don't forget the comp.sys.sgi.* newsgroups, there are a few people
there who either have or fondly remember the 4D series and can help.
Look on Ebay (yes, really) for IRIX. 5.3 is more common than 4.0.5 but
they do appear fom time to time. I have a 4.0.5 CD which I'd offer to
copy, but some kind soul scratched it rather badly and it won't read
now :-(
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
I picked up an Iris 4D/80 'deskside' monster, sans drives, with digital
video I/O capabilites and 'analog' video output and 'VTR' control today
>from Purdue Salvage. I don't have a whole lot of documentation on the
system (well, basically none), and about all I do know is that the
processor board seems to be filled with RAM and it has BNC jacks on the
back panel for connection to a monitor.
Can anyone tell me what versions of IRIX might work with this system
and/or where to pick up a copy? I'd love to see if I could get this thing
running again.
Thanks,
Pat
--
Purdue Universtiy ITAP/RCS
Information Technology at Purdue
Research Computing and Storage
http://www-rcd.cc.purdue.edu
The problem with this is that you are totally ignoring
the owners rights in this.
You are treating a program like physical property when
it isn't. It is Intellectual Property.
If you do not purchase a license from the author to
use his work, you are not entitled to own it.
Whether you have made a copy so that nobody else is
deprived of their copy is immaterial.
Something is lost by him/her. His/her rights to
control the distribution of his/her work.
If you don't want to buy it, then you shouldn't have
it.
If you say "F" you, I'm going to take one anyway...
What's the point in having copyright/ownership laws?
If the laws aren't used, respected and enforced..
eventually people will decide not to create cool stuff
because most people will "copy" it (and in your
concept, since they won't buy it anyway... No harm is
being done...), and the author will recieve little to
no compensation for his work.
So, those people will decide to do something where
they will get paid.
If you consistently rob a store, eventually it will go
out of business, and you won't have anything to rob
anymore, not to mention... Actually buy something you
need....
So there is HUGE harm in stealing software by copying
it. Most pirates won't admit to it, because then
they'd have to admit they are bad people, stealing
>from someone/everyone...
This is all elementary business/copyright law. Not an
opinion. It's the basis of all copyright law.
Regards,
Al
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