Thanks to all that responded already. Sorry I had to turn some of you
down - G727s seem to be hot items.
Anyway, I have a pair of hardcover books from Apple - ProDOS 8 Technical
Reference Manual (1982, 83, and 87 dates, Addison Wesley), and BASIC
Programming with ProDOS (same dates, same publisher). Pretty good
condition - with the dust sleeves. Anyway, anyone want this pair for
$3.00 plus shipping?
William Donzelli
aw288(a)osfn.org
>From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
>
>On Tue, 2 Dec 2003, Joe wrote:
>
>> The BEST thing for leaky batteries is a product called "Lime-Away".
>> It's sold in grocery stores and is used to remove stains caused by hard
>> water. Get the liquid stuff, not the gell. Put it on full strength a
>> wait a few minutes then wash/brush it off. It won't harm plastics. The
>> main ingediant is phosphoric acid and it will leave a phosphate coating
>> on some metals. The phosphate coating is similar to parkerizing and will
>> help prevent future corrosion. It's by far the best thing I've found for
>> corroded batteries.
>
>I'm assuming that CLR ("Calcium, Lime, Rust") is also good? Or is the
>"Calcium-Rust" component of the formula not good for plastics?
>
Hi Sellam
I suspect that it is the same thing. It may use some other
acid but for the cleaning part it should work OK. I've used
phosphoric acid treatment on a boat trailer that I had to protect
>from the dunkings I did in salt water. So far, the paint
has been on for about 10 years and there is no flaking of
the paint caused by rust under the paint. The are some small
rust stain lines where the paint is cracked. If it had been
any other undercoating method, I'm sure these cracks would
have allowed the rust to spread under the paint and peeled
the paint off. It is interesting that I never knew what the
process was called ( Parkerizing ). I do know it works but
often when I talk to other boat people, they don't know what
I'm talking about. Maybe I just didn't use the right name.
Dwight
Jay,
since it seams that may mails addressed to you account
<jwest(a)classiccmp.org> and the classiccomp maintainer
account don't reach you, I try now sending this in-band.
I still have these 'kick off' problems, now for the third
time. Since there's nothing wrong with my mail account
(except for the list bot nobody ever complained) it may
point to a problem on your side.
What also puzzles me is that this problem seams to occure
always at the beginning of a month - now for the third
time in a row.
If I can get some more information about the aleged problems,
I may try to help.
Gruss
H.
------------------------------------------------------
Jay,
I have been again kicked off the list ... since the last Mail, directed at
the included Maintainer address ( cctalk-owner(a)classiccmp.org ) did not work,
now to your personal address. Since the Problem is still the same, I just
add my last Mail:
------------------------------------------------------
Hi Jay,
looks like there's something wrong. For one, I don't understand why
the list thinks my mailbox bounces ... it might be helpful if the
list robot would add the error message. Second, when I click the
confirmation string, it tells me that this is already more than 3
Days old ... The Message is from the 5th, today is the 6th (in some
parts of the US still the 5th), but the robot thinks it's already
outdated ... (see below). This is now the second time it happenes,
and I have no idea what I can do, except resubscribeing.
Servus
Hans
------------------------------------------------------
> Your membership in the mailing list cctalk has been disabled due to
> excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was dated
> 01-Dec-2003. You will not get any more messages from this list until
> you re-enable your membership. You will receive 3 more reminders like
> this before your membership in the list is deleted.
>
> To re-enable your membership, you can simply respond to this message
> (leaving the Subject: line intact), or visit the confirmation page at
>
> http://www.classiccmp.org/mailman/confirm/cctalk/26ec9197e427141f28548143ee…
>
>
> You can also visit your membership page at
>
> http://www.classiccmp.org/mailman/options/cctalk/hans.franke%40mch20.sbs.de
>
>
> On your membership page, you can change various delivery options such
> as your email address and whether you get digests or not. As a
> reminder, your membership password is
>
> beaxxu
>
> If you have any questions or problems, you can contact the list owner
> at
>
> cctalk-owner(a)classiccmp.org
--
VCF Europa 5.0 am 01./02. Mai 2004 in Muenchen
http://www.vcfe.org/
...as if I need more things to do, I've always wanted a Nova 1200 or a
smallish General Automation machine, 8K/16K/32K core and a tty
interface. I have no desire for high-maintenance disk systems, though a
linc tape would be nice (used those with the DG before).
Are these things ever available? Anyone have one they'd like to part
with?
On Dec 2, 17:18, Fred Cisin wrote:
> On Tue, 2 Dec 2003 jpero(a)sympatico.ca wrote:
> > While everybody else is talking about cleaning up the leakers,
> > Is this chemical is good use to dissolve rust on steel screw is
> > rust seized in the potmetal or aluminum distributor?
>
[...]
> The more common problem with steel screws into aluminum parts, such
as
> drives, particularly if subjected to weather, etc., is for the head
of the
> screw to rust, but the aluminum hole that it screws into to corrode.
>
> Usually the best approach is to get it out where you can work on it.
> A penetrating oil, OR COKE, if permitted to soak into the hole
overnight
> will sometimes help loosen the grip.
Agreed -- don't use phosphoric acid because iron phosphate will gum up
the hole just as badly as any rust. Penetrating oil (*not* WD40 -- the
stuff we use over here is called PlusGas) is the best thing to try, or
a mineral acid like hydrochloric acid if that fails.
I'll snip the rest of Fred's excellent reply, except:
> Then use tools that fit TIGHTLY to the head of the fastener (use 6
point
> not 12 point for hex), and DON'T use a #1 Phillips for #2 fasteners!
And in the UK/Europe, don't use a Phillips driver on a
Pozidrive/SupaDriv screw, or vice-versa.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
Hi Joe,
I want Arnet smartport card and test in SCO Xenix.
If you please let me know
thanks
naresh
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
Anyone here ever heard of a hard drive company called Cogito Systems? I
had a 20 Mb (?) HD of theirs that I traded years ago, & I'm trying to dig
up something about the company.
--
David Vohs
netsurfer_x1(a)fastmailbox.net
--
http://www.fastmail.fm - Same, same, but different
On Dec 2, 9:52, Dwight K. Elvey wrote:
> I'm not sure exactly what was happening. I looked
> at the line this time and it included your address as
> well as cctalk
Yup, 'cuz I added a Reply-To: of my own, and then the list added the
"cctalk" address.
> The other time I didn't look at the reply line
> so I'm not sure why it posted double but I suspect
> that it had cctalk twice.
Um, I'm not sure which message you're referring to. But the Reply-To:
in the message you just posted (the one that this is a followup to) is:
Reply-To: "Dwight K. Elvey" <dwight.elvey(a)amd.com>,
"General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
Your mailer is probably creating an initial Reply-to: like this:
Reply-To: "Dwight K. Elvey" <dwight.elvey(a)amd.com>
and then the list software is adding the "cctalk" part. I think that's
wrong, it should *replace* the original with the "cctalk". That's what
used to happen. It's not a big deal for me though; I didn't mean to
make a big fuss about it, I just noticed and wondered why.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
>How cheap is it? How does it compare to Coke, in particular? Coke has
>sugar and caffiene mixed in, but also has a good deal of phosophoric
>acid in it. (I'm assuming, of course, plenty of water rinse
>afterwards.)
Myth Busters on TV did an episode about the myths of Coke. I was
surprised to see that it really DID clean battery terminals in a car
better than water. It also appeared to do a better job of cleaning chrome
than the chrome polish they tested against (they didn't say what the
brand was they tried).
However, it didn't appear to do anything for degreasing an engine, or
disolving meat or teeth :-)
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
