>Small tin with white pop off cap, tin is covered in blue and white,
>thick white stuff pours out of it on cloth and rubbed on tanished
>metals to get it bright again.
Sounds like a product around here called Noxon which I use all the time
to restore metals.
Since I already have some Noxon I'll give it a try on a CD before I hunt
and see if I can find Brasso (since Chad says it's available here in the
US). Now to burn a CD, and scratch it up to see if it works.
Thanks
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
>I've found that 'Brasso' applied by hand can descratch a CD
>that was unreadable due to serious scratching and make it
>useable.
What's Brasso?
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
>I've never seen this thing but just a thought: were you grinding the
>wrong surface (seriously)?
No, I followed the directions to the letter, a few times, just to see if
I was doing something wrong. You are supposed to use it on the reading
surface (as opposed to the lable side)
>I think things would have to be pretty bad for me to use
>a grinding product on a CD.
It doesn't advertise that it "grinds", rather it says it "buffs" the
scratches out. But after trying it out on a few CDs, grind is MUCH better
word for it, as it litterally tears the surface of the CD apart (leaving
behind a very scratched up surface that no longer reflects worth crap).
>I do have what is essentially
>a soft pad (just to remove dust and prints and suchlike
>from the surface) and I have seen various "CD restorer"
>kits (these seem to be mostly fluids that claim to fill in the
>scratches and prevent them from interfering with the
>data readback ... I'm not sure I believe that!)
I have one of those too... and it works VERY well, although not for
seriously scratched CDs, but ones that are really dirty, and have some
mars on them, it works nicely. But it is a much more gentle process. It
looks like an overgrown jewel case, you put the CD in it read side up,
spray it with the fluid (which from the ingedients is little more than
alcohol and gelatin from what I can gather), and then close the cover and
spin the handle. It then rubs in a pseudo circular motion, a soft felt
pad (like a mini car buffer) across the surface. You spin it for a bit
until the CD looks shiney. Then remove it, let it dry fully (a few
seconds) and so far, most all of the CDs I have used it on have come back
to life, at least long enough for me to image the disc to be burned to a
new CD.
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
> Oh. Well, yeah. They're mostly the same folk. As contradictory as
>that sounds, it is really the truth.
Amazing how that is huh. They'll give you all the real junk, but toss the
stuff that is of interest.
>Let me guess. "But I thought you only like OLD Macs?"
No, it was more along the lines of "Well, it never worked right for me
anyway". My retort was simply "Yeah, but you're a moron" (I've known his
brother since I was in the 3rd grade... so I can get away with calling
him a moron and not fear that he will stiff me when he junks the iMac G4
in a month when he craps it up too.)
And to add insult to my weekend... I just got back from my sister's house
(had to fix her PC, her kids shoved the power button clean out of the
front of the case). It seems her husband did the same thing to me. They
got a new PC, and she planned to turn the old one into a kids gaming
computer. But her husband decided it was taking up space and gave it to
some guy he knows from work last month. At least I don't mind half as
much with this one, it was only a P180 Compaq, this little black, non
expandable desktop unit. And it went to another user rather than the
trash. No serious loss. (although it would have made a nice tiny netBSD
server since the thing was little bigger than a VCR)
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
One existed for the HP-48 series of calcs. It was called (I think)
drive-95.
The device used serial, and kermit to communicate with the calc for program
storage.
(I *reallllly* wanted one of those...)
Doug Jackson
MSS Operations Manager
Citadel Securix
(02) 6290 9011 (Ph)
(02) 6262 6152 (Fax)
(0414) 986 878 (mobile)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fred Cisin (XenoSoft) [mailto:cisin@xenosoft.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 8:40 AM
> To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
> Subject: Re: Serial floppy drives
>
>
> On Mon, 2 Sep 2002, tim lindner wrote:
> > Did anybody ever market a floppy disk system that communicated via
> > RS-232?
>
> Yes, but, ...
> Only one really "caught on"
> Radio Shack "Portable Disk Drive" was sold for the Model 100.
> It was serial, but not quite RS-232. The first version was
> Single-Density? on a 3.5" disk.
>
>
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Feel free to visit the Citadel Securix website! Click below.
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Hi all,
Here's a nice guy trying to sell his Ithaca DPS-1 and matching dual 8"
drives. It sounds like they're in great shape.
Tell him dogas sent you, but I'm not affiliated with the sale. Contact Ken
at his net1plus.com account below if interested.
Good luck!
;)
- Mike: dogas(a)bellsouth.net
From: Ken Silvestri <ksilvestri(a)net1plus.com>
To: 'Mike' <dogas(a)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: Vintage Computer for Sale
> Hello Mike,
>
> Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, but I have the details you
> were looking for.
>
> Ithaca Intersystems Mod# DPS-1, Ser. # MFD-0675
>
> Boards:
> * IA-2030 Rev.A 64K ram
> * IA-2000 Rev.A Z-80A CPU
> * IA-2020 Controller?
> * IA-1190 Rev.B I/O
> * Tecmar S-100 D/A
> * Backplane, Thinker Toys w/20 edge sockets
>
> Floppy Drives:
> 2-8" drives in matching enclosure
> Ithaca Intersystems Mod# 950
> Ser# DBD 0608
>
> All switches and lights on the front panel appear to be functional.
> The whole system is in excellent shape and includes the cables.
>
> I will let it go for any reasonable offer.
>
> Live well and prosper,
>
> > Thanks.
> > >
> > > Ken Silvestri
> > >
> > > T: 978-597-8018
> > > F: 978-597-2309
> > > E: ksilvestri(a)net1plus.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
Hi all
>Display Frequrency: 24 MHz
>Horizontal Freq: 25,862 kHz
>Vertical Freq: 59,873 Hz
>Dots per trace: 640
>Number of Traces: 400
>Power Supply: 15V +- 1.5%
Thanks, Robert. Just a tad too low to use a VGA monitor.
Anyone know how to crank the horizontal scan rate on
a VGA monitor down? Should be do-able, no?
>I have a block diagram (from AT&T 6300 Plus docs), which I can scan and send
>you if you want it.
I think the monitor this guy has is pretty toasted. I'd
like to replace it, not to try and repair it.
Do you have the pinouts for that connector, maybe?
Thanks
Wouter
On Aug 30, 1:01, cvisors(a)carnagevisors.net wrote:
> Thanks for all of this information, it looks as if the mouse, which looks
> like the right sort of mouse, is one of the mice used for the Indigo2.
> Which unfortunatly is a PS/2 mouse, the person I got the indigo from,
> though is going to have a bit of a poke round and see if he can find the
> original mouse. Its from a university who are pretty anal about keeping
> all of these things together. so hopefully it will turn up..
Maybe this will help: there are basically 4 mice that have been used on
SGIs.
Some early 4D's used an optical mouse made by Mouse Systems, rather
rectangular in shape; it's possible to convert some old Sun optical mice to
SGI use and vice-versa (see the 4DFAQ aka "This Old SGI" for details).
BTW, having the mouse work correctly on one axis but not the other is a
common symptom of using a mouse pad with the wrong line spacing. Some
people have in the past incorrectly attributed this to "one of the LEDs not
working", but in fact the perceived non-illumination is because one LED is
visible red and the other is infrared.
Most Personal Irises and the original Indigo (both R3000 and R4000 models)
use a Mouse Systems mechanical mouse, which has a 6-pin miniDIN that plugs
into the keyboard. This is basically a serial mouse. It's a beige colour,
same as the keyboard, with about 32" of cable, part no 9150800. Benjamin,
are you sure you've not misread the last digit? I've checked half-a-dozen
mice in case I had any variants...
The Indigo^2, Indy, and later machines use a PS/2 type mouse, also 6-pin
miniDIN, which plugs into the machine (which has two PS/2 ports, one for
the mouse and one for the keyboard). The first ones were made by Mouse
Systems and look just like the earlier Indigo serial mice, except that they
are normally granite (grey) in colour, have a much longer cable -- about
105" -- and a different part number: 063-0001-001. The very earliest ones,
however, were beige (the earliest Indy keyboards were beige).
Later Indys, and O2/Octane/Origin/Onyx2 and the like, were sold with a PS/2
mouse made by Logitek. It's a rebadged 3-button Pilot mouse (equivalent
Logitek type M-S35), also granite coloured, part no 063-0009-001.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
From: Tothwolf <tothwolf(a)concentric.net>
Subject: OT: dumpster dive and water/mold cleanup
You might want to contact the libraries in your area for companies that
do freeze-drying too, since this is a big amout of items and there are
contractors with large faciltiies (though I would hope you could get the
family to chip in as they want some of the stuff you rescued for them)
Larry
--
01000011 01001111 01001101 01001101 01001111 01000100 01001111 01010010 01000101
Larry Anderson - Sysop of Silicon Realms BBS (209) 754-1363
300-14.4k bps
Set your 8-bit C= rigs to sail for http://www.portcommodore.com/
01000011 01001111 01001101 01010000 01010101 01010100 01000101 01010010 01010011
I just received one of William's ASR33s and it appears to be in good
working order. I am not at all familiar with these machines so I have a
few questions about their operation and interfacing.
First off, when I power on this unit the "main" motor doesn't run. It
turns when moved manually, but it won't move by itself. Depending on
the motor position at power-up (I think) I sometimes hear what sounds
like a warning buzzer. Is there something I'm doing wrong? How would I
run this machine in "local" mode?
Once I figure out that this machine is working (I assume the problems
are mine and not the machines) I'd like to hook it up to my Altair
(which is now running great thanks to Dwight!). How would I go about
doing this? I'm guessing I'll need some sort of box to interface
between the TTY and RS232, but I haven't yet found any information on
that. Can anyone point me to an article, website or some other source
of information on this?
If I manage to get that all done, is there anyone on this list who has
software on paper tape that I could get copies of? I'd be most
interested in a BASIC variant and any BASIC programs that could run on
it, but anything else would be great.
What am I missing? Is there anything else I should know?
Thanks!
Erik S. Klein
www.vintage-computing.com
