http://www.allelectronics.com/matrix/7_Segment_Displays.html
0.3" character height, red or green.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Kearney [mailto:jim@jkearney.com]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 1:09 PM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: [OT] Need 7 segment displays...
>From: "Gene Buckle" <geneb(a)deltasoft.com>
> I'm trying to find some VERY small 7 segment displays. I need a part
> that's small enough that 5 digits will fit into an inch long area. I'm
> not having any luck and I'm hoping someone here might know where I can
> find them.
I don't know where to find them, but LED calculators in the 70's sometimes
used 4 digit modules with a DIP-16 form factor. They looked like 4 bubbles
on top of a lead frame. That would make them about 3/4" for four; but I'm
not sure how you'd get 5 unless you could also find a 'single'.
Not very helpful, I know, but perhaps a step in the right direction...
Hi,
I recently picked up a card and external box for the Apple II. Both say Don Johnson Development Equipment Inc Adaptive Firmware Card and the box also says I/O Box. The box connects to the card via two short ribbon cables and has a 36 pin male Centronics style connector, two banana jack sockets, rocker switch and a LED on it. I picked this up in Topeka, does anyone know what it is?
Joe
>From: Joe <rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com>
>
>
>>Probably a shorted decoupling capacitor (if it's a 'dead short' or close
>>to one). I have been known to carefully cut power traces to find out
>>which section is shorted, and then home in on the problem.
>
> That's the way that I've traced shorts down. However since then I've bought a HP Current
probe, they're supposed to be able to trace a short down the correct path. I've never had a need
for it since I bought it so I dont know how well it works. Has anyone had any experience using
one?
Hi
I've used a current probe a number of years ago and found
it worked OK for trace short, when they were accessable
on the surface. I've since found a method that works fine
for me, using standard bench top items. You need a 4 or 5
voltmeter that has at least a 200 uV range and a current
limiting power supply.
What you do is to place about a 1 amp current from end to
end of the curcuit that is shorted to another curcuit.
Do not place the 1 amp through the short. This will generally
create a 20-100 uV drop across the curcuit. Now, clip one
lead of the meter on the other curcuit ( the one that this
curcuit is shorted to ). With the remaining lead, trace along
the curcuit with the current flowing through it. When you
get to the point where the short is, the voltage will be zero.
On either side, the voltage will be plus or minus, telling you
which way to go. Check the meter regularly for offset by
connecting both meter leads together. This will help you especially
when you get close. For curcuits with branches, you may need to
move where you put your end to end current to follow another
branch.
This method also works for power planes. Say there is a bypass
cap that is shorted someplace. Place the current source on
opposite corners of the board and trace until you have a line
( usually curved ) across the board that measure zero ( I usually
tape a piece of string along this line ). Move the current source
to the other corners. Again, find the line. Where the lines
cross, you'll find the short.
There are variations of this method that I've used to find
multiple shorts.
Dwight
> From: Gary Hildebrand
>
> I just came acrtoss this ---- there might be some good sources in here
> for goodies. My gold mine in Topeka is part of this list, so I'm
> betting on at least a couple more . . . . .
>
>
> http://www.recycle.net/computer/used/index.html
>
>
Seems like a decent resource... Did you happen to notice the Titan
Trailers ad/link at the bottm of the page? ;)
--
--- David A Woyciesjes
--- C & IS Support Specialist
--- Yale University Press
--- (203) 432-0953
--- ICQ # - 905818
Mac OS X 10.1 - Darwin Kernel Version 5
Running since 01/22/2002 without a crash
> From: Sellam Ismail <foo(a)siconic.com>
> Whoever tells you the checks are "random" and not based on ethnicity or
> appearance is just trying to be PC. I'm sure there is a bit of
randomness
> involved, but that's for the non-Arab, non-Muslim flying contingent.
> There's only been one time out of perhaps ten where I didn't have to go
> through the extra pre-boarding check before a flight.
No offense, Sellam, but this only seems natural to me. I'm sure the
airport security checks have gotten a bit tiresome, but we recently were
attacked by Arab Muslims, and several thousand people died. If we'd been
attacked by Irishmen I'm sure we'd be taking a harder look at them, too.
Glen
0/0
Come to think of it, the gas shocks do somewhat remind me of the ones on the
rear gate of my subaru station wagon... or on the hood of a BMW... hmm...
Will J
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
I just came acrtoss this ---- there might be some good sources in here
for goodies. My gold mine in Topeka is part of this list, so I'm
betting on at least a couple more . . . . .
http://www.recycle.net/computer/used/index.html
Gary Hildebrand
St. Joseph, MO
> From: Andreas Freiherr
>
> Gunther Schadow wrote:
> >
> > ... Then you can open the hood just like
> > in my car, check the alternator belt and I just haven't found the
> > oil dip stick yet :-).
>
> My trouble with it is that the "hood" always bounces back on the rear
> part of my head, because the pressurized gas retainers have lost their
> magic smoke in the cause of the years. I am convinced it's impossible
> and perhaps even dangerous to repair (i.e., to repressurize) them, but
> is there a known good source for spare parts?
>
> Without looking: are these parts the same type in a RA80 and in a RA82?
>
> I don't want headaches every time I adjust belt tension...
>
> --
>
(continuing the automobile analogy...) How big are the gas shocks?
Anything like the ones that hold up a hatchback in car? Auto part places
like JCWhitney.com sell replacements...
--
--- David A Woyciesjes
--- C & IS Support Specialist
--- Yale University Press
--- (203) 432-0953
--- ICQ # - 905818
Mac OS X 10.1 - Darwin Kernel Version 5
Running since 01/22/2002 without a crash
I've acquired a non-working Mac Performa 476. Unfortunately, I don't
have any other Mac gear to help me with the diagnosis. I've the
Performa 476 itself, which may or may not be working; I've got two
Macintosh Color Displays (M1212) which may or may not be working, and
one spare Performa 475 motherboard purchased from eBay. It was
advertised as pulled from a working system--but I've no way to verify
this. The seller was a reputable one, so I'm inclined to believe it's a
good board. The 475 motherboard is identical to that of the 475. The
difference between the two models being that the 476 shipped with a
larger internal HD.
When I power up the system, with monitor attached, the internal cooling
fan spins up, the hard drive spins up (and sounds normal), and the
machine chimes what I seem to recall as being the regular start up sound
for this era of Mac. However, the display remains dark. If I power off
the Mac, leaving the monitor on, the monitor makes a light
static/crackle noise; it's the sort of sound I normally associate with a
monitor that's lost the video input signal. I've played with the
brightness and contrast controls without any success.
If I switch the other monitor, the behavior is the same. If I switch
>from the orginal motherboard to the one I purchased on eBay, the
behavior is the same. It's possible both monitors are bad and/or both
motherboards are bad. I don't have a multimeter to verify that the
voltages coming out of the PS are correct. Nor do I know that the hard
drive is functional--but I'd assume that nothing needs to be loaded from
the HD in order to get the display to come up.
I'm a bit puzzled, and wondering if anyone here with insight on these
Macs and their displays can give me any additional pointers.
-brian.
AFIK, OCC never sold a composite adaptor themselves. The one I had was a
Monadapt by JMM (?).
I also have a copy of the Osborne 1 Technical Manual (Thom Hogan and Mike
Iannamico, copyright 1982). It describes the video circuit, with schematics
for the edge connector and brightness/comtrast pots, but it does not have a
schematic for a composite adaptor.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe [mailto:rigdonj@cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 7:15 AM
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org; acme_ent(a)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Osborne 1 Video Adapter? (was:RE: IBM 026 Printing Card
Punch)
Glen,
Didn't I give you the Ozzy Technical manual? I think they describe their
version in there and I think they even include a schematic. IIRC there's
nothing in it except for two connectors and a transistor. I believe it
replaces the "Do Not Remove" plug on the front of the Ozzy.
Joe
At 01:02 AM 5/30/02 -0400, you wrote:
>> From: Feldman, Robert <Robert_Feldman(a)jdedwards.com>
>
>> I was looking through the Alltronics listings and noticed a TTL-Composite
>> video adaptor (http://www.alltronics.com/computer_miscellaneous.htm ,
>> #92C024) that looks like the adaptor I have for my Osborne 1!
>
>Robert --
>
>Please tell me more about this adapter. I like my Oz 1 but hate the
>screen. Where does it connect to the Oz?
>
>Glen
>0/0
>
>