In case you blinked, there was a WOZ signed Mac
on Antiques Roadshow (Tucson, AZ, Hour 3). It
was only on for about 20 seconds, but the appraiser
valued it at $6,000-$10,000!
Here's a link to the episode, but no mention of the
Mac. It shows up about halfway through the show.
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/roadshow/series/highlights/2002/tucson/tucson3
.html
In a message dated 2/5/2002 4:53:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
vaxzilla(a)jarai.org writes:
> On Tue, 5 Feb 2002, Sellam Ismail wrote:
> > On Tue, 5 Feb 2002, Chad Fernandez wrote:
>
> > > Not likely, since most women won't like the setup you described :-) You
> > > LIVE here??? walks out door, never comes back :-(
> >
> > Sure, if you're into lame and materialistic women.
> >
> > A good woman will love you for who you are inside.
>
> Yeah, but don't expect her to be very good looking.
>
> -brian.
>
bzzzt,wrong! my wife to be is pretty and smart and more enlightened than
most. Plus she knows *everything* about me and loves it all! heh.
Ok, I really should have pulled it apart and looked before now,
and feel absolutely idiotic. :)
The reason that the battery backup wasn't working in my '9000
is that there are no batteries. (that would prevent it from
properly functioning, I'm sure...) I assume that the previous
owner found the batteries to have gone bad, and simply decided
to remove them.
I'll be attempting to contact HP about getting replacements
soon. Meanwhile, does anyone know of any other sources
(including price if possible) for these batteries?
Regards,
Chris
Christopher Smith, Perl Developer
Amdocs - Champaign, IL
/usr/bin/perl -e '
print((~"\x95\xc4\xe3"^"Just Another Perl Hacker.")."\x08!\n");
'
A friend who is at the Hanford Auction called and asked me if I knew anything
about a small white tower named IVAN and made by International Imaging
System. A Google search turned up nothing.
>From the Google hits I bet is a graphics engine of some kind. Any information
would help.
Paxton
Astoria, OR
My Vax 4000 has a TF85 DLT tape drive which works fine, but is missing the
plastic panel that has the lettering describing the function of the various
LEDs on the front of the drive. Could someone tell me what the different
LEDs mean? Once I know I can make a snazzy paper, stick on version.... (
That's what hobby computing is about! )
Also, I need to de-gauss some DLT III tapes to use with the TF85. Any
ideas on what it takes to properly de-gauss a cartridge?
Doug
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Brown [mailto:bbrown@harper.cc.il.us]
> Physically, where is the case was the battery?
>
> I have a G40 downstairs in our datacenter.
Take the front plate off -- you'll need a torx bit. (Also note
that the faceplate slides straight up, then straight out. You
might damage something if you're really adamant about pulling
it off sideways, or straight out before you lift up on it.)
Each power supply has two screws holding it in (torx again).
You'll also need to remove the drive cage above the PSU before
you pull the power supply out. (two more torx screws, near the
top of the cage) I think they're probably both the same, so
only one should need removed.
Once you get a PSU out (you shouldn't even need to pull it out
all the way...), look right in the front of the PSU, to the
right. I think that's the battery compartment. Mine is just
empty with a two-prong plug that I assume should plug into the
battery.
Chris
Christopher Smith, Perl Developer
Amdocs - Champaign, IL
/usr/bin/perl -e '
print((~"\x95\xc4\xe3"^"Just Another Perl Hacker.")."\x08!\n");
'
> Jerome Fine wrote:
>
>Is there any way to check a CD?
The obvious way is to duplicate it to
an "image copy" on HD. If the copying
app manages to read all the sectors,
then it must be OK. For simple ISO9660
CDs, simply copying off the data may be
enough.
There are also programs (such as CDcheck,
http://www.elpros.si/CDCheck/) which will
test out your CDs for you.
> Also, how often do you recommend making
> a new copy?
Once, just before the old one goes bad :-)
Seriously, I've not actively gone back through
my stuff to check, but I have dragged stuff off CD
a few years after burning and so far I've only
hit one bad CD. And even that one may have been
burned badly - these days I do a check against
the source when writing a CD. It was that bad CD
that made me start doing that!
For *important* stuff, consider
making two copies.
OTOH, five years from now you will be
moving your CD-R (and CD) stuff
over to whatever the next high capacity
media happens to be (C3D,
http://www.c-3d.net/tech_frameset.html,
with 125*G*B per recordable disk,
looks to be adequate ...)
> Also, can CD software duplicate (make an exact copy of a) CDs?
CDRWin http://www.goldenhawk.com/ and
CloneCD http://www.elby.org/ can both do this
and both have free demo versions. There
are plenty of others (I just don't
remember which have freebie versions).
If your CDs have some for of copy
protection, then things may not be so
straightforward.
>And can anyone suggest a way to do the
>following on a W98 (Yeck) system:
>
>I want to set up some files in both ISO file structure
>(available under DOS/W95/W98)
>and under RT-11 as an RT-11 partition.
>Is there a way to copy the files to a specific
>block on the CD?
Tim Shoppa's RT-11 CD is set up this way (IIRC).
I don't know how he did it, but it's clearly possible.
The trick for this kind of stuff is usually to have
the non-ISO9660 filesystem set up to use the bits
of the CD not used by the ISO9660 system. For details
on how to do this for OpenVMS's ODS-2
see http://www.tmesis.com/cdrom/.
If you want to have the ISO9660 and ODS-2
filesystems share (some or all of) the same
data (i.e. you want maybe 600MB of data
visible to each fs) then see:
http://support.tditx.com/~odsiso/index.html.
Neither of these do exactly what you want,
but they illustrate the general principle.
Antonio
> pete(a)dunnington.u-net.com wrote:
>
>Agreed. Absolutely. Whenever I find old kit,
>I look around and ask around
>for any and all manuals, documents, whatever.
A useful rule of thumb, that I've learned
through hard experience, is that "X" and
"docs for X" (and "software for X" and "pretty
much anything else you might like if you had X")
almost never arrive at the same time. Usually
"X" turns up just after you've not bothered to pick
up one of the other items in the list.
>As for the suggestion someone made that you can get documentation
>from the
>web, well, that's sometimes true, but often the information is
incomplete,
>or in an unsuitable format, or disappears after a while.
The web is a cache - it's only there to hang on
to stuff while you burn it to CD :-)
Now there's an L2 cache to help out
at http://www.archive.org/index.html.
>I can't count
>the number of times I've been grateful that I downloaded a copy of
some
>document onto one of my own hard drives, because the original
online
>version has gone. Besides, a printed copy is often much more
useful,
>especially for circuit diagrams and large manuals.
Printed copies are great. Always assuming that
(a) you can get them and (b) you have the
room to store them!
Antonio
>Ok, now's your chance to discuss your specialty and get the attention of
>other folks who have stuff that you may want.
I want any items made by Apple Computer, but my forte is the Macintosh
-chris
<http://www.mythtech.net>
On Feb 5, 22:33, Paul Williams wrote:
> Pete Turnbull wrote:
> >
> > On a Windows system? Telnet to a Unix machine.
>
> Ha ha! Step 1 of so many solutions!
Yeah, but I did at least mention the Windows port of wget even if it was
buried in the middle where I hoped no-one would notice ;-)
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
