Hi
The holes are just for automatic handling. It is
so the robots that place the die, bonds the wires,
places the lid and test the part know where pin 1 is.
Dwight
>From: "Benedict Bridgewater" <benb(a)Basit.COM>
>
>I'm curious if anyone can ID this chip on eBay:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2070850586&rd=1
>
>Does anyone know what the purpose/function of the holes in it are?!
>
>Ben
>
>
>From: "David Comley" <david_comley(a)yahoo.com>
>
>>Hi
>>I think you need to make this point clearer. When a
>character
>>is punched, the same character is miss printed on the
>platen?
>>This is how I read his original post.
>
>Even using the REPT key to workaround the codebar
>issue, I wasn't able to connect the carriage problem
>conclusively to either a rotational or a vertical
>problem. I think at this point I'm going to take the
>carriage off again and try a more thorough
>dismantle/clean/oil. Once I resolve the codebar issue
>it will be easier to diagnose the carriage problem
>with a clean mechanism.
>
>>This tells me it is something sticking in the linkage
>that goes
>>between the code bars and the print head( or he has
>it installed
>>wrong but that doesn't explain why it starts working
>with repeats ).
>>I would remove the print assembly and put it in some
>solvent
>>while moving the levers. Then clean it off/dry it and
>re-oil
>>it. You most likely have some dry oil that is
>sluggish. Getting
>>oil into the right place will take a bit.
>>In the service( military ), we used to clean things
>in a bath
>>of water and heavy detergent. This was done in an
>ultrasonic
>>cleaner. We'd then rinse and bake it at about 150F
>for a few
>>hours. Then Re-oil/grease, place on test bench and
>fine adjust.
>>I suspect that a good dish washing liquid would work.
>
>I remember using an arklone bath at a place I worked
>years ago for cleaning circuit boards. Probably taken
>a few years off my live expectancy breathing that
>stuff in.
>
>>
>>Basically, there are 3 possible problem areas :
>>
>>1) The keyboard contacts are not closing correctly,
>so the parallel data
>>output of the keyboard is incorrect.
>>
>>2) The distributor disk (rear right of the typing
>unit) is not correctly
>>serialising the data from the keyboard. Unlikely, but
>possible.
>>
>>3) The selector unit (rear left of the typing unit)
>is malfunctioning,
>>and is not correclty responding the receiving magnet.
>>
>
>I can see the armature 'stutter' when I punch the
>rubout key - by stutter, I mean that its movement
>looks slightly different between keypresses. So I'm
>inclined to think that the magnet is just responding
Hi
You haven't made it clear about punching. Does it work
correctly when you use the punch?? If it does, it can't
be the keyboard, distributor or codebars. All of these must
work to have the punch work correctly. The punch is
mechanically connected to the code bars of the printer.
>to what it is receiving which is incorrect. I cleaned
>the distributor and reseated the brushes, readjusted
>the brush holder to the alignment mark per the
>adjustment procedure in the manual. So I'm back to
>option 1) - the keyboard - as the source of the
>problem. One thing I noticed last night was that the
>keyboard cover is broken. There are four round tabs,
>one at each corner, that fit into corresponding holes
>on the end plates. These are broken, so the cover can
>rock from side to side, pivoting on those center
>projections. I wonder if that could cause some sort of
>alignment problem within the keyboard ?
I'd think it would have to shift quite a bit to fail.
It would be more likely that the switch contacts( at the
right side of the keyboard ) might be dirty.
For the pegs, one can drill the plastic and use some
dowel rod( wood or plastic ) from the hobby shop to
replace the alignment pegs. Since this had a punch on it,
it most likely has a lot of chad stuck on things that can
gum things up.
>
>Thanks for the suggestions - I will get to it again
>tonight and see what else I can find out. I hate the
>idea of opening that keyboard up...
As I stated earlier( in this group ), you can disconnect
the power from the motor and run things slowly to see what
is missing. You just have to manually lock up the clutches
since it isn't spinning fast enough to lock them with inertia.
Dwight
>
>Dave
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
>http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
>
Since I'm (mostly to very dumb) when it comes to these things - I would
like to ask for opinions/advice/recommendations from the List on what the
best way would be to attach one of the terminal ports on the machine to
the Net, to allow folks to telnet in and play with the system remotely.
I was thinking phone-line -> modem-> Net-to-serial-box-> 11/44 port.
There are 30 ports, all will run at least 9600, and I do have a
registered and hosted (though inactive) domain name... not that the two
would be related.
This would of course be for during the periods that the system was on...
and I sure as Hell am *not* considering leaving 'er up 24/7...
electricity, noise, hAxOrZ (in that order) would deter that. Might be fun
to have a mirrored emulator tho...
Anyway - those of you who are smart in this area: how owuld you do this?
Cheers
John
email recall....
> I'm tempted to just haul off and order a new
> power supply - I'm pretty sure I can board-swap
> that without killing anything.
Get the PSU part number and I'll look it up,
or check:
http://pages.prodigy.net/ppsjm/PART%20NUMBER.htm
John A.
I've made an adapter to connect a DECmate III to a standard composite
monitor (using the details posted here, thanks), but I haven't been able to
get any of my monitors to work properly with it. On every monitor I've
tried so far the one or both sides of the picture stretch off the screen
and the h-pos/h-width controls do not provide enough adjustment to correct it.
Is there a fix for this? Any suggestions of monitors that will work other
than a VR201 (old mono monitors are getting hard to find around here, let
alone a VR201).
Anybody out here likes to get rid of one ?
Would be interested in a working/nice model.
Looks like the discussion of the HP calculators got me into that ;-)
cheers
>attempt to power them up... does anyone have any points to a print-set
>and maintenance data for these drives? Any experiences people have had
You can find RL02 stuff at:
http://www.mainecoon.com/classiccmp/
Antonio
> Zane wrote:
> > It's supposed to be able to play VCD's, I've tried CD-RW and neither it
> > or my old Sony DVD player would read them.
>
> There's a huge difference between a DVD player being able to play stamped
> VCDs, and being able to play CD-R. Stamped discs can be read with the
> red laser used for DVDs, but CD-R must be read with an IR laser. Many
> DVD players only have the red laser.
Ah. Any idea what type laser is needed for DVD-R then?
> You didn't say how old your Sony DVD player is. Their first generation
> players, the DVP-S7000 and DVP-S3000, have two lasers and can read CD-R.
> I've never tried CD-RW in my DVP-S7000, though.
I really had to think about how old it is! I got it about four years ago,
though the model had been out for a while. IIRC, it was a midrange model,
and I think it was one of the second generation players (I'd have had a
first generation player, IF, they'd brought out the Star Wars Trilogy).
Zane
Does anyone have the drivers for an Apple /// ProFile Hard Disk
subsystem? I've had no luck finding these on the net.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Erik S. Klein
