22 Feb
2013
22 Feb
'13
1:02 p.m.
All those bits of rubber are now blobs of goo--and tough as the devil to get cleaned up,
much less replaced.
Try GooGone and a host of other things. Can't say for certain but I have to believe
there's some way of removing it w/o too much fuss. Tape residue and I realize it's
entirely different comes right off with what used to be called Afta, but they were bought
by someone years ago.
22 Feb
22 Feb
2:24 p.m.
On 02/22/2013 01:02 PM, Chris Tofu wrote:
All those bits of rubber are now blobs of goo--and tough as the devil
to get cleaned up, much less replaced.
Try GooGone and a host of other things. Can't say for certain but I
have to believe there's some way of removing it w/o too much fuss.
Tape residue and I realize it's entirely different comes right off
with what used to be called Afta, but they were bought by someone
years ago.
From the sounds of it, probably naphtha.
The big problem with a lot of this stuff is that it's been attached to
or leaked onto plastic parts. You want to be very careful of what you
use on old plastic. Some solvents can cause it to disintegrate.
I've had moderate success with mineral spirits. It's terrible yucky
stuff, no matter what you use. Benzene (not benzine) would probably
also work, but I haven't tried it because it's very difficult to obtain,
being classed as a carcinogen and all...
--Chuck
2:49 p.m.
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org]
On Behalf Of Chuck Guzis
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 4:25 PM
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: Manual for BASF6105 8inch Flp drive
On 02/22/2013 01:02 PM, Chris Tofu wrote:
All those bits of rubber are now blobs of goo--and tough as the devil
to get cleaned up, much less replaced.
Try GooGone and a host of other things. Can't say for certain but I
have to believe there's some way of removing it w/o too much fuss.
Tape residue and I realize it's entirely different comes right off
with what used to be called Afta, but they were bought by someone
years ago.
From the sounds of it, probably naphtha.
The big problem with a lot of this stuff is that it's been attached to or
leaked onto plastic parts. You want to be very careful of what you use on
old plastic. Some solvents can cause it to disintegrate.
I've had moderate success with mineral spirits. It's terrible yucky
stuff, no matter what you use. Benzene (not benzine) would probably
also work, but I haven't tried it because it's very difficult to obtain,
being classed as a carcinogen and all...
--Chuck
Try a product called Spot Shot, made as a carpet cleaner, aerosol, blue can
with orange lid. I know Wal-Mart and Sams Club carry it. We use it as a
last resort when Goo Gone does not remove the glop or magic marker. A very
small squirt goes a long way! Removes magic marker, melted rubber goo from
old rubber feet, etc. If the surface to clean is plastic, spray on the rag,
and not directly on the surface. Does not harm aluminum or steel, or ABS
plastic like monitor housings. It WILL melt the plastic on old dial-up
telephones. You can also use MEK, still available at the stores here, but be
sure you are well-vented if you do. Another one that works is lighter
fluid, but it will harm some plastics.
Cindy
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4:35 p.m.
On 02/22/2013 02:49 PM, Cindy Croxton Electronics Plus wrote:
Try a product called Spot Shot, made as a carpet
cleaner, aerosol, blue can
with orange lid. I know Wal-Mart and Sams Club carry it. We use it as a
last resort when Goo Gone does not remove the glop or magic marker. A very
small squirt goes a long way! Removes magic marker, melted rubber goo from
old rubber feet, etc. If the surface to clean is plastic, spray on the rag,
and not directly on the surface. Does not harm aluminum or steel, or ABS
plastic like monitor housings. It WILL melt the plastic on old dial-up
telephones. You can also use MEK, still available at the stores here, but be
sure you are well-vented if you do. Another one that works is lighter
fluid, but it will harm some plastics.
Well, I know what I'd try if I could get some--carbon tet or even freon
TF. Both used to be as common as dirt and now nearly unobtainium unless
you're a commercial airline mechanic or analytical chemist.
You don't happen to have any of either rattling around in that
warehouse, do you?
--Chuck
23 Feb
23 Feb
1:23 p.m.
From the sounds of it, probably naphtha.
The big problem with a lot of this stuff is that it's been attached to
or leaked onto plastic parts. You want to be very careful of what you
use on old plastic. Some solvents can cause it to disintegrate.
Some solvents will soften and distort the plastic immediately. This is
bad enough, but at least you can test them on an unimprtante area. Woest,
though, some slovents can attack the plastic laving it waek and/or
brittle. You don't notice this at the time, only after you've ruind the
part by completley cleaning it and it falls apart.
One of the worst jobs is cleaning up an HP9810/20 printer mechanism where
the platten roller has decayed. Unlike the card reader roller i nthe smae
machine, which turns to a crumbly powder, the platten turns to a black
goo which gets _everywhere_. It's partciularly bad if there's no paper i
nthe pritner at the time, bcasue the thermal printhead gets coated i nthe
stuff. That part has to be clean to work properly, and it's delecate, s
oyou don;'t want to rub it too hard. At least it's a ceramic subrstate on
a meatl abcking plate, so no common solvents will attack it.
I've had moderate success with mineral spirits.
It's terrible yucky
I believe that's what we call 'WHite spirit' over here. It is quite
useful (and cheap) for things like this.
I find that naphtha (lighter fluid) and propal-2-ol are the only
solvents I routinely use. They're safe on most computer parts nad one or
other will normally shift most forms of gunge.
stuff, no matter what you use. Benzene (not benzine)
would probably
also work, but I haven't tried it because it's very difficult to obtain,
being classed as a carcinogen and all...
-tony
4321
days inactive
4322
days old
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