18 Apr
2006
18 Apr
'06
11:42 p.m.
I finally got a few photos of the HP 1000 that I bought a couple of
months ago.
any opinions on what I have, and what steps should be taken before trying
to do anything with it?
It appeared to have had a Tandberg tape drive attached at some time.
the cables connected to the back of each card have all been cut by the
scrapper that had it before I did.
There sounds to be at least one small part (screw, nut, broken plastic)
rattling around inside the front area, so it will have to be opened no
matter what.
There was an empty slot a the top of this, so I may be out anything useful,
it may be a junk spare cage with a bunch of I/O if I had to guess. At least
I didn't out a lot for it. I have to admit I was seduced by the switches
and lights that appeared to be on the front panel, and an obvious need to
fill some space in my pile with something.
It appears to have a battery pack that was the rear panel. Due to the
construction, I wonder if it was added by a system integrator.
thanks
Jim
http://jwstephens.com/hp-1000/page_01.htm
19 Apr
19 Apr
2:02 a.m.
jim stephens wrote:
There sounds to be at least one small part (screw,
nut, broken plastic)
rattling around inside the front area, so it will have to be opened no
matter what.
There should be another card cage on the front side, behind the front
panel. Your CPU and memory cards would go there.
--Bill
9:22 a.m.
William wrote...
There should be another card cage on the front side,
behind the front
panel. Your CPU and memory cards would go there.
Memory cards, yes. CPU cards, no.
There is only one cpu card and it isn't in
any card cage. It's the big board at the bottom that the two upright
backplane cards plug in to.
Jay
20 Apr
20 Apr
7:32 p.m.
The CPU sits on the bottom of the chassis, nearly filling the whole
footprint of
the processor box.
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Maddox" <wmaddox at pacbell.net>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 5:02 AM
Subject: Re: HP 1000 cmoputer (parts maybe)
jim stephens wrote:
There sounds to be at least one small part
(screw, nut, broken plastic)
rattling around inside the front area, so it will have to be opened no
matter what.
There should be another card cage on the front side, behind the front
panel. Your CPU and memory cards would go there.
--Bill
19 Apr
19 Apr
3:11 a.m.
At 11:42 PM 4/18/06 -0700, you wrote:
I finally got a few photos of the HP 1000 that I bought
a couple of
months ago.
any opinions on what I have, and what steps should be taken before trying
to do anything with it?
I just check it over and then power it up if I don't see any obvious
problems. However Tony D advocates removing all the cards, building a dummy
load and testing the power supply under load. I, for one, am not that
paranoid. YMMV. The one problem that I've had on several 1000s is that
after it's been run a while the EMI filter cap in the power supply blows.
I've had about three of them do this. At least two machines keep on running
normally after it happend! The other I powered off instantly. This cap
blows after the machines where running anywhere from an hour to several days.
It appeared to have had a Tandberg tape drive attached at some time.
the cables connected to the back of each card have all been cut by the
scrapper that had it before I did.
Assholes!
There sounds to be at least one small part (screw, nut, broken plastic)
rattling around inside the front area, so it will have to be opened no
matter what.
If you don't have the key, you can carefuly pry it open. The latch is a
simple aluminium strap and it will bend easily. After you get it open you
can remove the strap and straighten it out and reuse it. I open and close
mine so often that I turned the lock 90d and left it unlocked and then
installed some velcro to hold the panel closed. Under the front panel is a
removeable plate that covers the CPU and memory cards. BTW I've been told
not to run the 1000 sithout the plate since it controls the cooling air
flow. One of the good things about the 1000s is that the scrappers
frequently don't realize that there's cards under the front panel so those
cards often don't get removed or monkeyed with.
There was an empty slot a the top of this, so I may be out anything useful,
it may be a junk spare cage with a bunch of I/O if I had to guess. At least
I didn't out a lot for it. I have to admit I was seduced by the switches
and lights that appeared to be on the front panel, and an obvious need to
fill some space in my pile with something.
It appears to have a battery pack that was the rear panel. Due to the
construction, I wonder if it was added by a system integrator.
Nope it's an option from HP.
In case you haven't already found it, Al K has a good number of the
manusls this machine on his website.
Joe
thanks
Jim
http://jwstephens.com/hp-1000/page_01.htm
9:33 a.m.
Joe wrote...
Yeah, I'd really love to know what drive that interface went to,
and what
the cable was pinned like. At least you have half the pinout in your stub of
a cable :)
I just check it over and then power it up if I
don't see any obvious
problems. However Tony D advocates removing all the cards, building a
dummy
load and testing the power supply under load. I, for one, am not that
paranoid. YMMV.
HP's truly are built like tanks (speaking of the 2100A/S and
21MX M/E/F
line) - both electronically and mechanically. I don't worry about powering
them up as much as other brands of boxes. One caution - see my previous
email - do NOT power one up without checking out the inside of the
powersupply to remove the foam and replace it with new foam. If you don't,
your system may run fine once in a while for short durations. Keep it on for
a long time or expect real use out of it and you may be disappointed unless
you take that step.
The one problem that I've had on several 1000s is
that
after it's been run a while the EMI filter cap in the power supply blows.
I've had about three of them do this. At least two machines keep on
running
normally after it happend! The other I powered off instantly. This cap
blows after the machines where running anywhere from an hour to several
days.
Odd... I've had truckloads of 21MX's come through here (literally)
that I've
restored... none had this failure mode. Perhaps I was lucky, perhaps it's a
regional thing. Good to keep an eye out for I guess.
the cables
connected to the back of each card have all been cut by the
scrapper that had it before I did.
Assholes! If you don't have the key, you can carefuly pry
it open. The latch is a
simple aluminium strap and it will bend easily. After you get it open you
can remove the strap and straighten it out and reuse it.
Yikes... please don't
do this. Metal only bends so many times.... but
besides the metal fatigue issue, more important is that removing the strap
that the latch connects to takes all of about 30 seconds. It is connected to
a bolt on the left side of the machine that is accessed from the back of the
left rackmount flange. Just undo the bolt, door opens and metal strap falls.
I open and close
mine so often that I turned the lock 90d and left it unlocked and then
installed some velcro to hold the panel closed.
One thing not built like a tank is
the hinges at the bottom of the front
panel. If your door bounces often, you will find those hinges bend, then the
door doesn't quite seat right.
Under the front panel is a
removeable plate that covers the CPU and memory cards. BTW I've been told
not to run the 1000 sithout the plate since it controls the cooling air
flow.
I suspect the cooling duct is misguided. With the door closed, there's
little difference in airflow. But there's a much better reason to keep this
panel in place. This panel is specifically designed to press tightly on the
ribbon cables that jumper between the memory controller and the memory cards
in the front card cage. This cable is notoriously finnicky. That is the main
reason for this front panel.
In case you haven't already found it, Al K has a
good number of the
manusls this machine on his website.
Yup, Al has a great HP section :) If you want
a large group of the HP 21MX
files, I'd prefer to send you a CD instead of you downloading 40 bajillion
gigs from the server :) Or... use another mirror ;)
Jay West
6:47 a.m.
At 11:33 AM 4/19/06 -0500, you wrote:
That (the EMI filters) seems to be the most common failure that I find.
I've had the same thing on several other computers. Perhaps it's due to the
heat and humidity here.
>> If you don't have the key, you
can carefuly pry it open. The latch is a
>> simple aluminium strap and it will bend easily. After you get it open you
>> can remove the strap and straighten it out and reuse it.
>Yikes... please don't do this. Metal only bends so many times.... but
>besides the metal fatigue issue, more important is that removing the strap
>that the latch connects to takes all of about 30 seconds. It is connected to
>a bolt on the left side of the machine that is accessed from the back of the
>left rackmount flange. Just undo the bolt, door opens and metal strap falls.
You're right about the screws, I had forgotten about that. Most of the
1000s that I find are still in the rack so I can't access the screws so I
have to pry the panel open. You should never have to do it more than once
so fatigue shouldn't be an issue.
BTW perhaps someone should collect all the info in these posts and
create a FAQ about the 1000s.
Joe
Joe wrote...
That's interesting. I don't think I've seen a problem with the foam in
any of the 1000s that I have. Perhaps it's due to the difference in
climate. Still it's a good diea to check.
I just check it over and then power it up if I
don't see any obvious
problems. However Tony D advocates removing all the cards, building a
dummy
load and testing the power supply under load. I, for one, am not that
paranoid. YMMV.
HP's truly are built like tanks (speaking of the 2100A/S and
21MX M/E/F
line) - both electronically and mechanically. I don't worry about powering
them up as much as other brands of boxes. One caution - see my previous
email - do NOT power one up without checking out the inside of the
powersupply to remove the foam and replace it with new foam. If you don't,
your system may run fine once in a while for short durations. Keep it on for
a long time or expect real use out of it and you may be disappointed unless
you take that step. The one problem that I've had on several
1000s is that
after it's been run a while the EMI filter cap in the power supply blows.
I've had about three of them do this. At least two machines keep on
running
normally after it happend! The other I powered off instantly. This cap
blows after the machines where running anywhere from an hour to several
days.
Odd... I've had truckloads of 21MX's come through here (literally)
that I've
restored... none had this failure mode. Perhaps I was lucky, perhaps it's a
regional thing. Good to keep an eye out for I guess.
11:53 a.m.
New subject: HP 1000 computer (parts maybe)
I have added selected comments to the page, and will update it with info
as I find things
out.
Thanks to everyone who has replied. Too early for me to do a FAQ, I
will do that if
I get enough information to do so.
Jim
BTW perhaps someone should collect all the info in
these posts and
create a FAQ about the 1000s.
Joe
2:11 p.m.
You wrote...
That's interesting. I don't think I've
seen a problem with the foam in
any of the 1000s that I have. Perhaps it's due to the difference in
climate. Still it's a good diea to check.
Every single 1000 I've seen has
had that problem, bar none. I think that
foam is designed to turn to dust no matter what climate :>
Thinking back, the majority of my systems have come from the areas in and
around california, texas, missouri, and virginia - nothing from the deep
southeast. Did you pop the cover of the power supply box? You probably
wouldn't see this problem unless the supply burned up, or you saw a few
chunks coming out the fans, or you noticed black dust at the bottom of the
chassis... or... you opened the top cover of the power supply enclosure :) A
very light coating of fine black powder or a few small chunks inside the
system chassis is a dead giveaway that the power supply foam is leaking out
as a fine particulate. You can usually spot it on the outside walls of the
inside, as the airflow in those systems is side to side. The airflow has a
lot of small obstacles, so particulates generally stay inside the chassis.
You're right about the screws, I had forgotten
about that. Most of the
1000s that I find are still in the rack so I can't access the screws so I
have to pry the panel open. You should never have to do it more than once
so fatigue shouldn't be an issue.
One thing to consider.... a small percentage
of the machines I've gotten in
racks are on chassistracks, so you can just take out the lock bolts in front
and extend them, then undo the front panel lock from the back left. However,
a very large percentage of the HP's in racks (most) are not on telescoping
chassistracks, but most all are sitting on simple L-brackets. In this case,
just unbolt the rackmount ears and slide it forward a few inches. You don't
have to derack it. I've never seen a 1000 that was rackmounted just by the
front ears without L-brackets or chassistracks, it's just too much weight on
the vertical posts.
BTW perhaps someone should collect all the info in
these posts and
create a FAQ about the 1000s.
*GRIN* I think that was a hint to me ;)
Jay
20 Apr
20 Apr
6:49 a.m.
In message <3.0.6.16.20060419134758.32ff543e at pop-server.cfl.rr.com>
"Joe R." <rigdonj at cfl.rr.com> wrote:
That (the EMI filters) seems to be the most common
failure that I find.
I've had the same thing on several other computers. Perhaps it's due to the
heat and humidity here.
I've seen X2-rated mains filter caps blow all too often. My Acorn Master 128
has had its input filter caps replaced after a blowout. Made a lot of
foul-smelling smoke for such a small device. I think I might still have the
photos I took of the blown part...
The Schaffner power filter module in my Solartron 7150plus DMM did the exact
same thing. Loud bang, huge puff of smoke, and brown gunk all over the inside
of the meter. Took a good two hours to get the crap off, then another hour to
replace the PFM. It still emits that lovely burned capacitor smell when I
power it up, especially when it's been in its carry-case for a while.
Damn I hate those little capacitors...
--
Phil. | Kitsune: Acorn RiscPC SA202 64M+6G ViewFinder
philpem at dsl.pipex.com | Cheetah: Athlon64 3200+ A8VDeluxeV2 512M+100G
http://www.philpem.me.uk/ | Tiger: Toshiba SatPro4600 Celeron700 256M+40G
19 Apr
19 Apr
3:01 p.m.
Joe wrote...
I will agree that the HP mechancial construction from that period is
second-to-none, and that the electronic design is darn good too
Now, I have no experience of the HP1000 systems (I would like to fiddle
with one, but they are not common over here :-(), but I have some
experience of the desktop calculators. HP went through a period of not
putting crowbars in their PSUs. The HP98x0 machines had crowbars on just
about every PSU output, the 9815, 9825 and 9831 have no crowbars at all.
For the latter machines, if the chopper transistor in the PSU fails, the
5V line leaps to 30V and takes out just about every chip in the machine,
including the custom CPU module.
Yes I am paranoid about this. I check the PSUs in my 98x5s on dummy load
before turning them on even if they just been sitting on the shelf here.
I ought to add a crowbar, but would I trust it to protect the rest of the
mahcine?
Do you know if the HP1000 supplies have crowbar protection?
-tony
I just check it over and then power it up if I
don't see any obvious
problems. However Tony D advocates removing all the cards, building a
dummy
load and testing the power supply under load. I, for one, am not that
paranoid. YMMV.
HP's truly are built like tanks (speaking of the 2100A/S and
21MX M/E/F
line) - both electronically and mechanically. I don't worry about powering
them up as much as other brands of boxes. One caution - see my previous 
3:38 p.m.
On 19 Apr 2006 at 23:01, Tony Duell wrote:
Do you know if the HP1000 supplies have crowbar
protection?
Sure do. See:
http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/hp/1000/1000_MEF_EngrRef/92851-90001_Mar81_9.p…
Page 17 has the power supply block diagram and shows that seven of the low
voltage supplies are crowbar-protected.
-- Dave
20 Apr
20 Apr
7:48 p.m.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay West" <jwest at classiccmp.org>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: HP 1000 cmoputer (parts maybe)
<snip>
Joe is correct here.
Unless the metal plate is installed over the memory boards and controller
two problems will pop up.
First off, airflow over one corner of the memory controller board will be
shunted forward, away from the backplane, and flow behind the front
panel. The 2102B will get flakey under these conditions, depending on
how the memory timing is adjusted (by the pot on the controller board).
Just measure the temperature of the 2102B with and without the metal
plate installed. Measure the far side from the power supply, near the
memory backplane.
I've 'fixed' flakey machines be installing this baffle when it had been
missing.
Of course the correct fix is to replace/repair the 2102B.
Secondly, the memory ribbon cables will act up far more than they do
when this foam-lined metal plate is installed as the factory designed it to
be.
Under the
front panel is a
removeable plate that covers the CPU and memory cards. BTW I've been told
not to run the 1000 sithout the plate since it controls the cooling air
flow.
I suspect the cooling duct is misguided. With the door closed, there's
little difference in airflow. But there's a much better reason to keep
this panel in place. This panel is specifically designed to press tightly
on the ribbon cables that jumper between the memory controller and the
memory cards in the front card cage. This cable is notoriously finnicky.
That is the main reason for this front panel.
9:59 p.m.
Bob wrote...
Of course the correct fix is to replace/repair the
2102B.
exactly. That coverplate really shouldn't make a difference (when the
front
panel is closed). If it does, the memory controller is likely marginal
anyways.
Secondly, the memory ribbon cables will act up far
more than they do
when this foam-lined metal plate is installed as the factory designed it
to be.
On all mine, the backing to the plate is a type of foam I haven't seen
elsewhere, it's definitely more like rubber than foam. I suspect this really
is the main reason for the coverplate rather than airflow.
Jay West
19 Apr
19 Apr
9:21 a.m.
Jim wrote...
I finally got a few photos of the HP 1000 that I bought
a couple of months
ago.
Another HP'er on the list, awesome :D
any opinions on what I have, and what steps should be
taken before trying
to do anything with it?
Yeah, do not turn it on before opening up the power supply.
The power supply
is extremely trivial to remove. Undo the molex connectors up front (or
unhook the 4 or so wires if it's that version). Slide the two catches in
front to unlatch. There may be two or four screws in back. Then slide the
whole thing out the rear. Open the top plate (about 10 screws). Remove all
the foam, and replace it! This power supply has a piece of foam glued to the
top coverplate that is almost always turned to mush. It gets in everything
in the power supply and the power supply doesn't take well to that from a
heat perspective. Blow it all out thoroughly. I usually remove solids by
hand, then vacuum, then compressed air. Then make sure to glue another piece
of foam to the top cover, because if you don't, the wrong pressure at the
right time can short the metal top to the cards inside - or worse, let the
cards inside come loose.
It appeared to have had a Tandberg tape drive attached
at some time.
In all my years of focusing on HP 2100/21MX M-E-F boxes, I've only
come
across ONE of those tandberg tape interfaces. I'd love to know what drive
they went to - I believe the tandberg interface was 3rd party. I would
imagine (given "Tandberg") that we're talking QIC-525 or something like
that? I have no clue, as I said I've only seen one interface. I stuck in on
the shelf in case I ever found said drive :)
the cables connected to the back of each card have all
been cut by the
scrapper that had it before I did.
Of course, take those cables off completely.
Cutting could have created
shorts - before power up. Keep the hoods though, they are hard to find and
quite useful.
There sounds to be at least one small part (screw,
nut, broken plastic)
rattling around inside the front area, so it will have to be opened no
matter what.
The memory card cage is in front, behind the front panel. Should be a
key in
front (or two quickrelease tabs on older M series) that allows the front
panel to swing down (or come off if tabs). You'll want to reseat the cards
in front and back, and also the ribbon cables between the cards in front.
Those memory cables are known for being finnicky. If you can't find the
floating part.... there is one screw on the rear towards the bottom. Take
that screw out, and the whole bottom panel will slide back an inch or so,
then off. You'll find the part sitting there likely.
There was an empty slot a the top of this, so I may be
out anything
useful,
it may be a junk spare cage with a bunch of I/O if I had to guess.
No, that's
not a problem at all. If you were using software that worked in
polled mode, empty slots between cards were fine (and common). But if you
were running anything that used interrupts, there could be no empty slots
between cards (there was also a jumper card available, I have truckloads of
those). But more to your point - after the last card, open slots are OK no
matter what... plus, the interrupt chain starts at the bottom, so open slots
at the top are likely OK.
At least
I didn't out a lot for it. I have to admit I was seduced by the switches
and lights that appeared to be on the front panel, and an obvious need to
fill some space in my pile with something.
I like the front panel on the 21MX MEF
boxes (yours is a 2109B). I
definitely far prefer the panel on the 2100A/S, but others will disagree
(Bob S.). And when I compare those two - I'm talking from the perspective of
entering long programs, not just setting a few registers here and there.
It appears to have a battery pack that was the rear
panel. Due to the
construction, I wonder if it was added by a system integrator.
I have several of
the standard HP battery backup options. Yours looks to be
factory. If not, it's a very very close design. The gel packs in it likely
don't hold a charge anymore, and are expensive to repair. You'll be wanting
a battery eliminator plug I bet... the system will not come up without
either a battery eliminator plug or a real battery.
Nice
Por... er... Pics :)
Looks like you have an HS term board ... that's a good all around board as
far as compatability with most terminals (non-HP). However, it's a PIG as
far as load on the system. It's the board required for TSB console though.
The BACI boards are much kinder to the system.
The microcircuit boards are sweet... I could always use a few more of those
myself - if they are the nicer C variety. They are a general purpose
interface board used for a bajillion different things, including a lot of
custom stuff. After all, HP's were designed by engineers for engineers, and
typically not for general purpose computing. More often than not, process
control, ATF, etc.
I'd be curious (if I were you) just what microcode roms were on that FAB
board under your cpu card there :)
The slides you have there are the ones I've generally seen come from
military use.
Nice box!
Oh - something important. Judging by the front panel pencil marks, this
system was booted from the device at IO select code 16. That would also be
the slot that your tandberg interface was in. So, most likely, this system
booted from that cartridge tape drive. I suggest you preserve the boot roms
for this machine! You likely have a special boot rom just for that tandberg
interface card which may well shed light on how that card and drive worked.
Jay West
6:39 a.m.
At 11:21 AM 4/19/06 -0500, Jay wrote:
Those memory cables are known for being finnicky.
That's good point. A lot of the problems that I've had with the 1000s
are due to poor contacts on those cards. I've found that if the contacts
are dry it's very hard to seat the cards. Now I take a paper towel and
dampen it with WD-40 and wipe the contacts good with it. It helps clean the
contacts and it leaves a light film of kerosene (the primary ingredient of
WD-40) on the contacts and makes it much easier to seat and remove the
circuit boards.
Joe
1:55 p.m.
Joe wrote....
That's good point. A lot of the problems that
I've had with the 1000s
are due to poor contacts on those cards. I've found that if the contacts
are dry it's very hard to seat the cards. Now I take a paper towel and
dampen it with WD-40 and wipe the contacts good with it. It helps clean
the
contacts and it leaves a light film of kerosene (the primary ingredient of
WD-40) on the contacts and makes it much easier to seat and remove the
circuit boards.
WD-40 is basically a light oil with some solvent properties. It is
NOT meant
for GOLD contacts, nor electrical use. I don't know about others practices
or experience, but I wouldn't put WD40 on a gold edge card connector
(remember, most any HP card of the period is gold connectors & traces, not
copper or tin). I just can't imagine putting some oil on a edge card
contact! It's (WD40) certainly not designed for that in any case.
Use the right tool for the job and get a can of Caig Pro-Gold. It restores
the gold connections, coats them for better life, is completely electrically
inert, and... gets rid of the 'hard to seat the card' syndrome permanently.
Jay West
2:33 p.m.
Jay West wrote:
Joe wrote....
It is a penetrating oil designed to lubricate after the fact. It is not
even that
good for use if you are just lubricating something, as it is designed to get
into anything it can seep into and provide lubrication. The solvent
properties
make it even less interesting as Jay mentions. It is definitly not
kerosene,
which would evaporate, but a blend of oils.
I am glad Jay mentioned a product to use, but anything but a hydrocarbon
lubricant is preferable, as frequently there will be plastics that are
damaged
by hydrocarbon oils. Silicon based oils may not do the same damage, such
as softening, but may soak into some materials and weaken them as well.
Unfortunately, you about have to know the chemistry of the materials before
selecting anything to lubricate, or clean. many materials may be damaged
by these cleaning solvents or lubricants.
Jim
<snip>. It helps clean the
contacts and it leaves a light film of kerosene (the primary
ingredient of
WD-40) on the contacts and makes it much easier to seat and remove the
circuit boards.
WD-40 is basically a light oil with some solvent properties.
2:46 p.m.
Jim wrote...
I am glad Jay mentioned a product to use, but anything
but a hydrocarbon
lubricant is preferable, as frequently there will be plastics that are
damaged
by hydrocarbon oils. Silicon based oils may not do the same damage, such
as softening, but may soak into some materials and weaken them as well.
Caig Pro-Gold is designed to be sprayed in and around plastics, doesn't harm
them. Primary purpose is gold contacts and cable ends with plastic hoods,
etc. I'd have to double-check the can, but I'm pretty certain it doesn't
cause any problems with semiconductors, chokes, coils, plastics, etc.
As I've said before, it's not cheap, but it's certainly worth it. All you
have to do is damage one board because it doesn't seat easily or pull
easily, and Pro-Gold is cheap. Caig also makes a companion product, De-Oxit,
which is quite good as a contact cleaner (primarily tin). In many cases I
uses De-Oxit first, then Pro-Gold for anything De-Oxit hit that is gold.
Jay
2:47 p.m.
New subject: Need some drivers for a Mac Media 100 Nubus Video Capture card
If any Mac collectors here have software for a Media 100 Nubus Video capture
setup please email me, I need drivers/software to get mine running.
Thanks
TZ
3:10 p.m.
Joe wrote....
Is 'your' WD40 the same as the stuff we get in the UK?
The stuff we get over here seems to be a mixture of many different
hydrocarbons, including some waxy ones. After a short-ish time the light
components evapourate and leave the wax behind. Ideal for the original
use (keeping water out), not so good on fine machinery.
I tend to call it 'Wanton Destruction 40', because of this. If somebody
has sprayed it onto, say, a camera or clock, you have to take the whole
thing apart, clean all the bits in a suitable solvent, and then put it
back togyeter. A long job.
Yes, I use WD40. For keeping rust off garden tools, and off my steel
rod/bar stock. I also use watch and clock oils on precision mechanisms,
and propan-2-ol on electrical contacts.
That's good point. A lot of the problems
that I've had with the 1000s
are due to poor contacts on those cards. I've found that if the contacts
are dry it's very hard to seat the cards. Now I take a paper towel and
dampen it with WD-40 and wipe the contacts good with it. It helps clean
the
contacts and it leaves a light film of kerosene (the primary ingredient of
WD-40) on the contacts and makes it much easier to seat and remove the
circuit boards.
WD-40 is basically a light oil with some solvent properties. It is
NOT meant for GOLD contacts, nor electrical use. I don't
know about others practices
or experience, but I wouldn't put WD40 on a gold edge card connector
I would be suprised if it attacked the gold, but I don't think it'll do
much good to the contact!
-tony
10:54 a.m.
Jay West wrote:
Jim wrote...
<snip>
the only nice thing is that they didn't chop the tape cable, though it
has a really exotic Mil twist lock on
the end of it. Fits the theory that this was a mil pull.
This came from a Tucson scrapper, which probably suggests it is a pull
It appeared to have had a Tandberg tape drive
attached at some time.
In all my years of focusing on HP 2100/21MX M-E-F boxes, I've only
come across ONE of those tandberg tape interfaces. I'd love to know
what drive they went to - I believe the tandberg interface was 3rd
party. I would imagine (given "Tandberg") that we're talking QIC-525
or something like that? I have no clue, as I said I've only seen one
interface. I stuck in on the shelf in case I ever found said drive :)
from a test system that
was struck by AMARC, or
other entity there.
I'll get a better scan of the Tandberg controller and see what I can see
on the connector. Qic interface
fits quite well, though they did make a 1/2 inch drive before that.
Their stuff and Fujitsu, I expect will
just work forever, it is so well made, if the smog monsters don't eat
the rubber parts. Wish I had
known about the tape drive, I could have looked at the guy's auctions
and at least been able to ID it,
but I have had this long enough there won't be any way to go back and
look now.
Jim
21 Apr
21 Apr
4:11 p.m.
On Wed, 2006-04-19 at 11:21 -0500, Jay West wrote:
Tandberg did not only make QIC tapes.
They were very big on reel-to-reel
audio back in the day - a major innovator and a cornerstone Norwegian
company - but Tandberg Data was separated out when the radio part went
bust (which is a complete shame - their stuff was incredibly
well-designed.) and continued to make data tape drives and (also one of
my favorite) terminals.
Anyway, they made terminals and I believe they also made 9-track tape
drives. I have spoken to people on Usenet who still work at Tandberg
Data and who have been around for a while. If you'd like some info I
could definitely forward questions.
-toresbe :)
It appeared to
have had a Tandberg tape drive attached at some time.
In all my years of focusing
on HP 2100/21MX M-E-F boxes, I've only come
across ONE of those tandberg tape interfaces. I'd love to know what drive
they went to - I believe the tandberg interface was 3rd party. I would
imagine (given "Tandberg") that we're talking QIC-525 or something like
that? I have no clue, as I said I've only seen one interface. I stuck in on
the shelf in case I ever found said drive :)
6821
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22 comments
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-
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
bshannon＠tiac.net -
jdbryan＠acm.org -
jwest＠classiccmp.org -
jwstephens＠msm.umr.edu -
philpem＠dsl.pipex.com -
rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com -
teoz＠neo.rr.com -
toresbe＠ifi.uio.no -
wmaddox＠pacbell.net