Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.
I've had
great luck using liquid graphite lock lubricant. The solvent
evaporates and leaves only the graphite. The graphite particles in the
Have you tried 'dry film lubricant' (or at least that's what it's called
over here, Electrolube (used to?) make it). It's similar, but with fine
PTFE particles. The carrier evapourates (it's not really a solvent,
I have something very similar, which was made for motorcycle control
cables, called Dri Slide. It is molybdenum disulfide based dry film
lubricant, withstands high pressure and temp. I think I will give that a
try.
>>If you need to, use tungsten wire for the
print
>>hammer pins themselves. Also replacements would
>>not rust.
>
> If you can't find the right size wire, try piano wire (from a hobby
>shop) or drill rod (industrial suppliers). Drill rod is annealed (soft) but
For my project, at least, it is a moot point. I have already repaired
the print pin with a pin robbed from another old printer. The most
difficult aspect of the repair was finding a long enough wire of proper
diameter. Brazing the wire to the solenoid was a skill I had to learn
just for this repair, and was not as hard as I had expected. I spent a
lot of time practicing on scrap metal with various heat sources before
repairing the print hammer.
Thanks again for the suggestions.
-Bryan