11 Oct
1999
11 Oct
'99
7:19 a.m.
Be VERY carefull as some of the British equipment I deal with all the time only
put a breaker in the Hot leg. They expect the neutral to be at / near ground.
If this is wired to US 240 then it will only protect 1 hot lead. The other will
be unprotected and ready to bite you. Not to mention the fact you are then
depending on the house breaker to protect your equipment.
Dan
Could be - I'm not the expert in US electrics
(althrough I just did
some studies to buy the right stuff for my 110V paneel) - but 220/240V
sounds good when it comes to a 3~ plug. If you buy an aprobiate plug,
and whire two 'hots', your system should work well. If the outlet has
a distinct Protective Ground, you should also wire PG to allow your
GFCI to check for deffective loops. This is save with all newer European
stuff, since an in device PE/N connection is no longer valid - also all
devices ave to be constructed in a way that there is no need to
distinguish between Neutral and 'Hot' (Some exceptions apply to British
EQ, but even their manufacturers switched soon, since they don't want to
have two different PSUs for the same unit :).
11 Oct
11 Oct
9:51 a.m.
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9:53 p.m.
>Could be - I'm not the expert in US electrics
(althrough I just did
>some studies to buy the right stuff for my 110V paneel) - but 220/240V
>sounds good when it comes to a 3~ plug. If you buy an aprobiate plug,
>and whire two 'hots', your system should work well. If the outlet has
>a distinct Protective Ground, you should also wire PG to allow your
>GFCI to check for deffective loops. This is save with all newer European
>stuff, since an in device PG/N connection is no longer valid - also all
>devices ave to be constructed in a way that there is no need to
>distinguish between Neutral and 'Hot' (Some exceptions apply to British
>EQ, but even their manufacturers switched soon, since they don't want to
>have two different PSUs for the same unit :).
Be VERY carefull as some of the British equipment I
deal with all the time only
put a breaker in the Hot leg.
Well, to confuse you even more, _all_ European EQ is only ment to
have _one_ switch and _one_ fuse inside the circuit - and there is
basicly _no_ distingtion between 'hot' or 'neutral'
They expect the neutral to be at / near ground.
Acording to actual EU (and local) regulations it is not allowed
for devices to expect any single wire to have a special potential,
with an exception of the PG of course.
If this is wired to US 240 then it will only protect 1
hot lead. The other will
be unprotected and ready to bite you. Not to mention the fact you are then
depending on the house breaker to protect your equipment.
A fuse will never protect _you_ nor the device. It is only ment to
protect the house/the installation. A devices fuse solves still its
purpose (by means of the codes) if it is not blown while parts of
the device are damaged thru an electrical fault, as long as these
parts can't cause any further damage outside the device (liek fire).
And for this, there is no logical need to have it in a special position
of the circuit. The same is true for switches.
Alas, don't forget, Neutral is by definition _not_ Ground (PG). A
proper system (house instalation) is only supposed keep it that way.
And just remember all the 2 wire plugged gear - they also have in
almost all cases only one switch and one fuse - and you can plug
them either way. We are still talking about AC.
Gruss
H.
P.S.: Sallam: I guess this could give a nice speach for VCF (Europe).
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Ich denke, also bin ich, also gut
HRK
12 Oct
12 Oct
3:35 a.m.
Hi,
A fuse will never protect _you_ nor the device. It is
only ment
to protect the house/the installation....
This I have to take issue with (though I'm probably quibbling over
semantics?).
The purpose of the fuse in the PLUG is to protect the power cable between the
plug and the device from carrying an unsafe current in the event of a problem
with that CABLE.
The device itself should contain a second fuse which is there to protect the
PSU in the event of a failure or overload.
At least that's what we were taught when I did an electronics course a few
years back.
TTFN - Pete.
--
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Collector of Arcade Machines, Games Consoles & Obsolete Computers (esp DEC)
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--
7:23 a.m.
A fuse will
never protect _you_ nor the device. It is only ment
to protect the house/the installation....
This I have to take issue with (though
I'm probably quibbling over
semantics?). The purpose of the fuse in the PLUG is to protect the
power cable between the
plug and the device from carrying an unsafe current in the event of a problem
with that CABLE.
Well, not protecting the cable - it's about protecting the
environment from damage a cable may caus - the fuse should
prevent that a cable (whereever it is installed - this is
the same for household fuses as for 'in-plug' fuses) gets
to hot and maybe ignit a fire, damaging your house. Basicly,
if looking at a cable, this also means keep it in good
condition.
The device itself should contain a second fuse which
is there to protect the
PSU in the event of a failure or overload.
Again, not protecting the PSU from damage (A damage did,
in most cases, already occure if the fuse is blown), but
rather the environment from possible negative effects of
a malfunctioning PSU.
At least that's what we were taught when I did an
electronics course a few
years back.
Well, I did 3 years training on electronics (didn't we all had a
_real_ job before going into the computer business :). Of course
my knowledge was primary targeted on German rules, we had to take
lessons on foreing codes, since we had to build and/or maintain
stuff internationaly. Also, at least within Europe, the codes are
unified.
Gruss
H.
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Ich denke, also bin ich, also gut
HRK
3:58 p.m.
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3:33 p.m.
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9204
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6 comments
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ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
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