2 Oct
2006
2 Oct
'06
11:15 p.m.
I've always had incredibly good success using naval jelly on spot rust. I
haven't used it in quite a few years though. Anyone else use this a lot and
have a good (cheap) source lined up that they'd care to share the contact
info for? Maybe if enough folks are interested we could split a case or
something.
Jay West
2 Oct
2 Oct
11:18 p.m.
I've always had incredibly good success using
naval jelly on spot rust.
I tried navel lint once. That didn't work so well though.
--
--------------------------------- personal: http://www.armory.com/~spectre/ ---
Cameron Kaiser * Floodgap Systems * www.floodgap.com * ckaiser at floodgap.com
-- The best things in life are sold out. --------------------------------------
11:48 p.m.
On 10/2/2006 at 10:15 PM Jay West wrote:
I've always had incredibly good success using naval
jelly on spot rust. I
haven't used it in quite a few years though. Anyone else use this a lot
and
have a good (cheap) source lined up that they'd care to share the contact
info for? Maybe if enough folks are interested we could split a case or
something.
I'm familiar with the stuff but would never really consider using it on
electronics gear--it's basically phosphoric and sulfuric acids with some
detergent and silica as a polishing agent. The "jelly" is nothing more
than Xanthan gum (also used to thicken salad dressing).
Surely, there must be safer ways to clear away rust!
Cheers,
Chuck
11:55 p.m.
Chuck wrote....
I'm familiar with the stuff but would never really
consider using it on
electronics gear
I wasn't planning on using it on circuit boards! I was
thinking of using it
on metal panels, racks, etc.
--it's basically phosphoric and sulfuric acids with
some
detergent and silica as a polishing agent. The "jelly" is nothing more
than Xanthan gum (also used to thicken salad dressing).
Odd, for many years I used
Naval Jelly to clean rust off cans in my beer can
collection. I never once saw it take any paint off, and I used it on some
pretty fragile old cans. It worked wonderfully without messing up the paint.
Jay
3 Oct
3 Oct
12:48 a.m.
On 10/2/2006 at 10:55 PM Jay West wrote:
Odd, for many years I used Naval Jelly to clean rust
off cans in my beer
can collection. I never once saw it take any paint off, and I used it on
some
pretty fragile old cans. It worked wonderfully without
messing up the
paint.
I'm sure it did. But Naval Jelly is a very old product and not very safe.
There are better, safer, preparations.
I've got a friend who runs an antique auto restoration business. He says
that he uses the Eastwood products:
http://www.offroaders.com/shop/rust.htm
Maybe there's something there that might do the job for you.
FWIW,
Chuck
8:55 a.m.
on 10/2/06 11:48 PM, Chuck Guzis at cclist at sydex.com wrote:
On 10/2/2006 at 10:55 PM Jay West wrote:
There is a product called Whink Rust Stain Remover that I've used for years
on small rust spots. You can get it at WalMart.
Richard
Odd, for many years I used Naval Jelly to clean
rust off cans in my beer
can collection. I never once saw it take any paint off, and I used it on
some
pretty fragile old cans. It worked wonderfully
without messing up the
paint.
I'm sure it did. But Naval Jelly is a very old product and not very safe.
There are better, safer, preparations.
I've got a friend who runs an antique auto restoration business. He says
that he uses the Eastwood products:
http://www.offroaders.com/shop/rust.htm
Maybe there's something there that might do the job for you.
FWIW,
Chuck
10:07 a.m.
Chuck Guzis wrote:
On 10/2/2006 at 10:55 PM Jay West wrote:
Wouldn't electrolysis using a sacrificial anode work? I've used it on small
parts before and it works well for getting rid of all the corrosion. Probably
doesn't scale well to large panels, though?
--
A. Because it destroys the natural flow of conversation.
Q. What's wrong with top posting ?
Odd, for many years I used Naval Jelly to clean
rust off cans in my beer
can collection. I never once saw it take any paint off, and I used it on
some
pretty fragile old cans. It worked wonderfully
without messing up the
paint.
I'm sure it did. But Naval Jelly is a very old product and not very safe.
There are better, safer, preparations. 
11:44 a.m.
Jules Richardson wrote:
Wouldn't electrolysis using a sacrificial anode
work?
Yes, it would.
I've used it on
small parts before and it works well for getting rid of all the
corrosion. Probably doesn't scale well to large panels, though?
Haha, you'd be surprised! I 've seen pictures of guys building tanks
out of wood and plastic sheeting to do large parts, or as a mid-size
tank using garbage cans!
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA
12:12 p.m.
It was written....
Haha, you'd be surprised! I 've seen pictures
of guys building tanks out
of wood and plastic sheeting to do large parts, or as a mid-size tank
using garbage cans!
I wasn't talking about using it for heavily encrusted parts. Just for some
rack panels that have a few light rust spots on them. I'm suprised that
someone mentioned there are polishing/abrasive components in the stuff. I
never used naval jelly on a rag and scrubbed to remove the rust. I dabbed on
a tiny amount on the rust spot, then about 30 minutes later just wiped it
off with a damp rag. Rust was gone. No scrubbing or polishing required.
There are some of my racks that have large areas of a VERY light mist of
rust. I would wipe on some naval jelly, then a few minutes later wipe it off
with a damp rag and then a dry rag. As I said, I've never seen it take off
paint although I guess that's possible.
Jay West
12:44 p.m.
On 10/3/2006 at 11:12 AM Jay West wrote:
There are some of my racks that have large areas of a
VERY light mist of
rust. I would wipe on some naval jelly, then a few minutes later wipe it
off
with a damp rag and then a dry rag. As I said, I've never seen it take off
paint although I guess that's possible.
Naval Jelly does have silica in it as a polishing agent. But you could
remove that light rust with a solution of phosphoric acid (or a can of Coke
for that matter).
Some old-time remedies are vinegar; another is soaking the part in molasses
(treacle for the UK crowd). Yuck!
Cheers,
Chuck
1:07 p.m.
Jay,
I was referring to electrolysis.
I don't have much experience with Naval Jelly, but the few times I did
use it, I didn't try to rub it in either.
Something to keep in mind.... electrolysis will remove paint.
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA
Jay West wrote:
It was written....
Haha, you'd be surprised! I 've seen
pictures of guys building tanks
out of wood and plastic sheeting to do large parts, or as a mid-size
tank using garbage cans!
I wasn't talking about using it for heavily encrusted parts. Just for
some rack panels that have a few light rust spots on them. I'm suprised
that someone mentioned there are polishing/abrasive components in the
stuff. I never used naval jelly on a rag and scrubbed to remove the
rust. I dabbed on a tiny amount on the rust spot, then about 30 minutes
later just wiped it off with a damp rag. Rust was gone. No scrubbing or
polishing required.
There are some of my racks that have large areas of a VERY light mist of
rust. I would wipe on some naval jelly, then a few minutes later wipe it
off with a damp rag and then a dry rag. As I said, I've never seen it
take off paint although I guess that's possible.
Jay West
1:48 p.m.
Jay West wrote:
<snip>
I wasn't talking about using it for heavily
encrusted parts. Just for
some rack panels that have a few light rust spots on them. I'm
suprised that someone mentioned there are polishing/abrasive
components in the stuff. I never used naval jelly on a rag and
scrubbed to remove the rust. I dabbed on a tiny amount on the rust
spot, then about 30 minutes later just wiped it off with a damp rag.
Rust was gone. No scrubbing or polishing required.
The only thing that worries me about naval jelly, or any other grease
product is that after the
the spots that you treat draw dust and retain it better than other
spots, and you get an ever
increasing area which after a year or two looks worse that just a spot
with some rust, assuming
the rust does not spread. The airborne stuff that collects can do a
variety of things, including
drawing more moisture to the spot, and causing other areas to get affected.
You can try to wipe it off with something to remove the volatiles
completely, however if there
are plastics or finishes involved, the way you clean the area is a
problem getting them clean
w/o harm.
It is not a huge problem for areas that are cleaned some, only for ones
which are cleaned
then put up in storage and not cleaned off, as well.
Jim
10:33 a.m.
From: "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at
sydex.com>
On 10/2/2006 at 10:55 PM Jay West wrote:
Hi
In another group, some have suggested electrolysis methods. I've not tried
it
but they talk about hanging the piece in a stainless tub and applying
current
to it. I don't recall what they suggested for elecrolyte but I suspect it
isn't
critical. Most anything that doesn't plate out of solution should work.
Dwight
Odd, for many years I used Naval Jelly to clean
rust off cans in my beer
can collection. I never once saw it take any paint off, and I used it on
some
pretty fragile old cans. It worked wonderfully
without messing up the
paint.
I'm sure it did. But Naval Jelly is a very old product and not very safe.
There are better, safer, preparations.
I've got a friend who runs an antique auto restoration business. He says
that he uses the Eastwood products:
http://www.offroaders.com/shop/rust.htm
Maybe there's something there that might do the job for you.
FWIW,
Chuck
11:29 a.m.
On 10/3/2006 at 7:33 AM dwight elvey wrote:
Hi
In another group, some have suggested electrolysis methods. I've not tried
it but they talk about hanging the piece in a stainless
tub and applying
current to it. I don't recall what they suggested for elecrolyte but I
suspect
it
isn't critical. Most anything that doesn't
plate out of solution should
work.
Dwight
The old tool collectors typically use a solution of washing soda (sodium
carbonate) or lye (sodium hydroxide). I've done it myself--just use a
battery charger and a steel bucket, immerse the cruddy item in the hot
solution and turn on the current. For those old rust-encrusted items, it
works really well right down to the otherwise unreachable crevices.
Cheers,
Chuck
11:41 a.m.
> In another group, some have suggested
electrolysis methods. I've not tried
> it but they talk about hanging the piece in a stainless tub and applying
> current to it. I don't recall what they suggested for elecrolyte but I
> suspect it isn't critical. Most anything that doesn't plate out of
> solution should work.
The old tool collectors typically use a solution of
washing soda (sodium
carbonate) or lye (sodium hydroxide). I've done it myself--just use a
battery charger and a steel bucket, immerse the cruddy item in the hot
solution and turn on the current. For those old rust-encrusted items, it
works really well right down to the otherwise unreachable crevices.
Stupid question -- what would be the anode and cathode in that case? I'm
sure this is an obvious thing but I don't have a lot of experience with this.
--
--------------------------------- personal: http://www.armory.com/~spectre/ ---
Cameron Kaiser * Floodgap Systems * www.floodgap.com * ckaiser at floodgap.com
-- Support your local hospital. Play hockey. ----------------------------------
12:41 p.m.
On 10/3/2006 at 8:41 AM Cameron Kaiser wrote:
Stupid question -- what would be the anode and cathode
in that case? I'm
sure this is an obvious thing but I don't have a lot of experience with
this.
The negative terminal of the DC source goes to the tool, so that would make
it the cathode. This method is supposed to be among the gentlest of
cleaning methods.
Cheers,
Chuck
7 Oct
7 Oct
2:50 p.m.
I haven't been following the thread, and even
attempted to find it's origin in the archives with no
success (ok I didn't try very hard). But for what it's
worth, a good way of removing rust is with a scotch
brite and/or fine steel wool and light oil (wd-40 or
Liquid Wrench say). I'm not sure the grocery store
variety of SBs will work, but maybe it would (perhaps
all of them have the little flecks of metal imbedded
in it's fibers). But start out with the steel wool.
The finest grade is #0000 and can be bought from craft
stores, often even the big ones. For this application
(?) it should be a good as any method, but careful on
machine tools cuz it WILL remove tiny amounts of
metal. I went to work on an area of an old Pratt &
Whitney lathe with visual hand-scraping marks (an
indication of a VERY fine dimensional finish)...and
they went away sniff.
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3 Oct
3 Oct
9:53 a.m.
I'm familiar with the stuff but would never really
consider using it on
electronics gear--it's basically phosphoric and sulfuric acids with some
detergent and silica as a polishing agent. The "jelly" is nothing more
than Xanthan gum (also used to thicken salad dressing).
Surely, there must be safer ways to clear away rust!
Not safer, but better. Commercial Naval Jelly is pretty weak stuff.
There is a liquid form out there (I do not recall who makes it) that
is much stronger and really does a number on rust. It will also really
do a number on your eyes, too.
--
Will
6499
days inactive
6503
days old
18 comments
10 participants
participants (10)
-
cclist＠sydex.com -
chrism3667＠yahoo.com -
dkelvey＠hotmail.com -
fernande＠internet1.net -
julesrichardsonuk＠yahoo.co.uk -
jwest＠classiccmp.org -
jwstephens＠msm.umr.edu -
richardlynch3＠comcast.net -
spectre＠floodgap.com -
wdonzelli＠gmail.com