16 Apr
2005
16 Apr
'05
5:33 p.m.
The HP-2116A in my haul yesterday has a broken chassis:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050416_120314
A few questions:
1) does anyone have a 2116 on the list? working or otherwise?
2) The chassis sides appear to be identical. Having a cracked top would
be much better than a cracked bottom. Anyone know if they are in fact
identical and if it's possible to take the whole thing apart and swap
the sides? Recommendations for or against? I know it would be a big project.
3) Thoughts on repairing the chassis? I could bondo, superglue, epoxy,
silversolder, etc. the pieces together, and add a plate behind it
attached with countersunk screws. Would not be very visible once the
panels are put back. I have the two side panels and the bottom panel,
but no top panel. Thoughts on which would work best?
My door is missing the glass:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050415_131216
If/when I get the system up and running, I'd like high res scans of a
front panel to recreate one. Anyone know if they panel was glass or some
other material?
Bob? I know your listening. ;-)
--
Tim Riker - http://rikers.org/ - TimR at Debian.org
Embedded Linux Technologist
BZFlag maintainer - http://BZFlag.org/ - for fun!
16 Apr
16 Apr
6:49 p.m.
Tim Riker wrote:
3) Thoughts on repairing the chassis? I could bondo,
superglue, epoxy,
silversolder, etc. the pieces together, and add a plate behind it
attached with countersunk screws. Would not be very visible once the
panels are put back. I have the two side panels and the bottom panel,
but no top panel. Thoughts on which would work best?
I think your best bet is welding. I believe that welding aluminum
requires special equipment. A guy at my office does something called
TIG welding for his robotics projects. I think the weld can be sunk
into the material and ground smooth afterwards, giving a nice
appearance. It will probably be expensive to have this done, however.
A bolted on plate would work as well, though you'd probably want
something on both sides, and it would probably not look as nice.
Forget about adhesives -- I expect they'd be pretty worthless in this
situation. If it were my machine, I'd take it around to a few good
metal shops and see what they could do or would recommend.
--Bill
6:50 p.m.
William Maddox wrote:
Forget about adhesives -- I expect they'd be pretty worthless in this
situation. If it were my machine, I'd take it around to a few good
metal shops and see what they could do or would recommend.
If you got metal shop, why not get the panel replaced and a new top
cover. My worry is why is it broken in the first place? To me any
damage to the case would have a major impact on the PCB's inside.
--Bill
Ben alias woodelf
17 Apr
17 Apr
12:32 a.m.
Jay West wrote:
Ok Ok Ok ... I guess the PCB's are fine ...
Umm Have you checked for Radiation now. :)
I'm just grumbling at all the "U-Pickup only in 48 hours" systems that
have appeared on this list
in the last few days.
Ben alias woodelf
My worry is
why is it broken in the first place? To me any
damage to the case would have a major impact on the PCB's inside.
Those are built (like most HP's) to survive a direct nuclear blast ;)
I wouldn't be suprised at all if all the cards are fine.
2:46 a.m.
at least invite one if the "disposers" to try to set this one on fire
if it is a magnesium frame. Should solve the problem of him
disposing of another system permanently.
woodelf wrote:
Jay West wrote:
<snip>
I'm just grumbling at all the "U-Pickup only in 48 hours" systems that
have appeared on this list
in the last few days.
Ben alias woodelf
1:26 p.m.
My worry is why is it broken in the first place?
To me any
damage to the case would have a major impact on the PCB's inside.
Those are built (like most HP's) to survive a direct nuclear blast ;) I
wouldn't be suprised at all if all the cards are fine. 
10:15 a.m.
Tim Riker wrote:
It is indeed TIG welding. You strike an arc between two tungsten
electrodes, shielded by an inert gas. Hence, Tungsten Inert Gas welding.
3) Thoughts on repairing the chassis? I could
bondo, superglue, epoxy,
silversolder, etc. the pieces together, and add a plate behind it
attached with countersunk screws. Would not be very visible once the
panels are put back. I have the two side panels and the bottom panel,
but no top panel. Thoughts on which would work best?
I think your best bet is welding. I believe that welding aluminum
requires special equipment. A guy at my office does something called
TIG welding for his robotics projects. I think the weld can be sunk
into the material and ground smooth afterwards, giving a nice
appearance. It will probably be expensive to have this done, however.
Not sure about cost.
In all welding, the weld should penetrate right through the metal,
otherwise it's just a snottery blob on top that won't hold anything. It
should be possible to grind the weld flush without weakening it.
Gordon.
16 Apr
16 Apr
9:29 p.m.
I have two 2116's, a 2116A, and a 2116C.
In your position, I'd contact Larry at Crisis Computer, and arrange to get
one of the parted-out 2116 hulks from his shop at a parts donor.
The parts your looking for should be reasonable, I don't think there is
much demand for chassis parts.
From the photo's, it looks like your core stacks
are missing. Is this
correct?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Riker" <Tim at rikers.org>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 5:33 PM
Subject: HP-2116A chassis (or repairing cast aluminum)
The HP-2116A in my haul yesterday has a broken
chassis:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050416_120314
A few questions:
1) does anyone have a 2116 on the list? working or otherwise?
2) The chassis sides appear to be identical. Having a cracked top would
be much better than a cracked bottom. Anyone know if they are in fact
identical and if it's possible to take the whole thing apart and swap
the sides? Recommendations for or against? I know it would be a big
project.
3) Thoughts on repairing the chassis? I could bondo, superglue, epoxy,
silversolder, etc. the pieces together, and add a plate behind it
attached with countersunk screws. Would not be very visible once the
panels are put back. I have the two side panels and the bottom panel,
but no top panel. Thoughts on which would work best?
My door is missing the glass:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050415_131216
If/when I get the system up and running, I'd like high res scans of a
front panel to recreate one. Anyone know if they panel was glass or some
other material?
Bob? I know your listening. ;-)
--
Tim Riker - http://rikers.org/ - TimR at Debian.org
Embedded Linux Technologist
BZFlag maintainer - http://BZFlag.org/ - for fun!
17 Apr
17 Apr
12:29 a.m.
Bob Shannon wrote:
I have two 2116's, a 2116A, and a 2116C.
In your position, I'd contact Larry at Crisis Computer, and arrange to get
one of the parted-out 2116 hulks from his shop at a parts donor.
Good advice. I'll drop him and email.
The parts your looking for should be reasonable, I
don't think there is
much demand for chassis parts.
> From the photo's, it looks like your core stacks are missing. Is this
> correct?
I recovered what I could find. I have no idea what's missing yet. any
feedback is appreciated. All the cards that came in the chassis are
still in there in the pictures. There are a few loose cards I found that
I'm not sure which HP they were used in. A fuzzy picture of them here:
Those don't look to include the cards in question. Anyone want to look
through the pics and estimate what I'd need to get the box running? The
existing card labels are readable on the fullsize version of:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050415_131245
These were removed and I have them:
2 large heatsink modules
front door (minus glass over register display, missing power button)
3 fans from bottom with metalwork
broken bits of chassis
plus these two cards were loose (top two):
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050416_125659
labeled 02116-6014 and 02116-6015
--
Tim Riker - http://rikers.org/ - TimR at Debian.org
Embedded Linux Technologist
BZFlag maintainer - http://BZFlag.org/ - for fun!
6:45 a.m.
On HP 2116A's and 2116B's, the core stacks are not mounted on cards
(the 2116C uses the same style of core memory as does the 2100A/S).
There should be one or two large blocks about five inches on a side, and
perhaps
four inches thick. Each block should have a set of five or six cables with
hooded
edge-card connections that connect to the drivers and sense amplifier boards
in the top row of the chassis.
The center row is the actual CPU logic, and is normally only half-populated.
The bottom row is the I/O backplane and only 2 or 3 boards in that row
belong
to the CPU itself, the rest (16?) are for I/O cards. Many of the same I/O
cards
used in the 21MX class machines will work in the 2116.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Riker" <Tim at rikers.org>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 12:29 AM
Subject: Re: HP-2116A chassis (or repairing cast aluminum)
Bob Shannon wrote:
I have two 2116's, a 2116A, and a 2116C.
In your position, I'd contact Larry at Crisis Computer, and arrange to
get
one of the parted-out 2116 hulks from his shop at a parts donor.
Good advice. I'll drop him and email.
The parts your looking for should be reasonable,
I don't think there is
much demand for chassis parts.
> From the photo's, it looks like your core stacks are missing. Is this
> correct?
I recovered what I could find. I have no idea what's missing yet. any
feedback is appreciated. All the cards that came in the chassis are
still in there in the pictures. There are a few loose cards I found that
I'm not sure which HP they were used in. A fuzzy picture of them here:
Those don't look to include the cards in question. Anyone want to look
through the pics and estimate what I'd need to get the box running? The
existing card labels are readable on the fullsize version of:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050415_131245
These were removed and I have them:
2 large heatsink modules
front door (minus glass over register display, missing power button)
3 fans from bottom with metalwork
broken bits of chassis
plus these two cards were loose (top two):
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050416_125659
labeled 02116-6014 and 02116-6015
--
Tim Riker - http://rikers.org/ - TimR at Debian.org
Embedded Linux Technologist
BZFlag maintainer - http://BZFlag.org/ - for fun!
5:11 p.m.
Bob Shannon wrote:
On HP 2116A's and 2116B's, the core stacks are
not mounted on cards
(the 2116C uses the same style of core memory as does the 2100A/S).
I'm still learning about this old machine. ;-)
There should be one or two large blocks about five
inches on a side,
and perhaps four inches thick. Each block should have a set of five
or six cables with hooded edge-card connections that connect to the
drivers and sense amplifier boards in the top row of the chassis.
Ahh. yes, two cubish boxes on top/back of the main chassis?:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050417_001441
Remember the original pic was inverted. I found the machine upside down
due to the cracked chassis.
The center row is the actual CPU logic, and is
normally only
half-populated.
sounds about right, here is is right side up:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050417_003545
anything missing that you can see? A1, A11, A14, A109-12, A114 being
empty are ok? My A12 has a small cosmetic rip. thoughts on bonding the
board back together? What do folks do to repair the board clips? My
dma-word-count fell apart just by touching it lightly.
I'm probably using all the wrong terminology. Docs would help. ;-)
The bottom row is the I/O backplane and only 2 or 3
boards in that
row belong to the CPU itself, the rest (16?) are for I/O cards. Many
of the same I/O cards used in the 21MX class machines will work in
the 2116.
I put the 2 boards that were loose (power regulators?) back in the
chassis, but have not put the 2 large heatsink modules in. They are
missing the fans that used to be on the bottom of each module.
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050417_085251
I really need manuals for this beast now. I didn't see any online.
Anyone have electronic versions of the documentation? please? ;-)
I'd be willing to scan and pdf paper manuals if anyone has them to loan.
please? ;-)
Also interested in anyone that might have a working HP-2020 mag tape
drive. I think mine is missing quite a few componets.
On opening the chassis, I noticed that the lower guide pin slider on my
cabinet is missing. Also the connects have threaded sockets that look
like they used to have some kind of a spring loaded pin mechanism. Both
of mine are empty.
Does the 2116A support 110v power? The power connect is a 220/240 style.
I see in the sales brocure for the 2116B that is supports either, but I
don't have docs for the 2116A yet. hint, hint... ;-)
I keep posting new stuff in the gallery. Feel free to browse. Isn't this
better than what's on TV anyway? ;-)
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware
--
Tim Riker - http://rikers.org/ - TimR at Debian.org
Embedded Linux Technologist
BZFlag maintainer - http://BZFlag.org/ - for fun!
17 Apr
17 Apr
7:19 a.m.
On Sat, 2005-04-16 at 16:33 -0500, Tim Riker wrote:
1) does anyone have a 2116 on the list? working or
otherwise?
We've got a 2116C, if I'm remembering my models right. I've got a
feeling we've got one 2115 and two 2116 machines, but I can't remember
the suffix letters on each (I just know that the 2115 isn't an A)
3) Thoughts on repairing the chassis? I could bondo,
superglue, epoxy,
silversolder, etc. the pieces together, and add a plate behind it
attached with countersunk screws.
Can you plate it both sides? That'd make it reasonably strong.
Aluminium's supposedly a pain - you can't glue it or solder it, and
welding it is also pretty tricky.
Top panel - hmm.... would need to have a look at how our machine is
constructed, maybe it's possible to get a replica made though.
cheers
Jules
2:08 p.m.
On Sat, 2005-04-16 at 22:33, Tim Riker wrote:
3) Thoughts on repairing the chassis? I could bondo,
superglue, epoxy,
silversolder, etc. the pieces together, and add a plate behind it
attached with countersunk screws. Would not be very visible once the
panels are put back. I have the two side panels and the bottom panel,
but no top panel. Thoughts on which would work best?
Not sure if someone's already suggested it, but you could try a place
that does mag/alloy wheel repairs (that is, proper engineering repairs
not polishing!) Race wheels tend towards pure mag.
(I won't go into how one of our director's speciality was to put an old
magnesium wheel in the middle of the bonfire...)
--
Lawrence Wilkinson lawrence at ljw.me.uk
Ph +44(0)1869-811059 http://www.ljw.me.uk
7034
days inactive
7035
days old
14 comments
10 participants
participants (10)
-
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
bfranchuk＠jetnet.ab.ca -
bshannon＠tiac.net -
gordonjcp＠gjcp.net -
julesrichardsonuk＠yahoo.co.uk -
jwest＠classiccmp.org -
jwstephens＠msm.umr.edu -
ljw-cctech＠ljw.me.uk -
Tim＠rikers.org -
wmaddox＠pacbell.net