3 Jan
2018
3 Jan
'18
3:26 p.m.
Excellent, that's a great start.
Vince - thanks for the measurements, I will redraw a better 3-view using those. Not sure
about how the extra bolt goes though.
Ethan - thanks for confirming the different leg pad to frame pad.
Noel - that is extremely useful info on the pads, I've now found them at
http://www.vlier.com/product_index/leveling/sel_05_lstar.html#
Paul - yes I noticed some systems had different legs, for instance this one
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2435/3878202215_372c46fccb_b.jpg
and any p/n info you have from better sources would be welcome.
The part number I found for the legs (H-952-BA) came from the Fall 1978 Digital Sales
Catalog, page 129 which has the same p/n for both
Standard and Short cabinets.
I'll cogitate over a revised drawing and get back to the list.
Thanks again,
Steve.
3 Jan
3 Jan
4:34 p.m.
From: Steve Malikoff via cctalk: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 3:26 PM
Vince - thanks for the measurements, I will redraw a
better 3-view using
those. Not sure about how the extra bolt goes though.
You're welcome, and thanks for your work on the drawing.
One thing I forgot to mention -- on mine, the path from edge "D"
to edge "G" is a diagonal, not a right angle. That is, "K" starts at
zero, and grows to 1.0 inches at the tip where "G" is measured.
The thickness there looks similar to the thickness at "G". (The
metal stiffens the flanges in both directions, preventing bending
or breakage.)
The extra bolt has a slotted flat screw head with a maximum
diameter of about 0.6" at the top edge, centered in the "D"
direction, and about 0.6" forward in the "K" direction. I'd
have to get out some tools and take one apart to measure
it's length and thread, but it looks like a standard DECish
thread to my eye (#10-something?), and protrudes just a
few threads past the nut on the bottom.
Vince
6 Jan
6 Jan
4:04 a.m.
Using the measurements provided by Vince I've rejigged the drawing a bit and it ought
to be closer.
I hope this shows what was meant by the angled corner part, seems logical to have it like
that.
The radii 'too small to measure' without a gauge was entered as 1/16" and it
looks acceptable.
Basic layout, no measurements just a cm/inch scale:
http://web.aanet.com.au/~malikoff/pdp11/DEC_H960_stabiliser_foot_left_A-H95…
Measurements (my CAD program converts everything to metric, when I entered in Vince's
measurements):
http://web.aanet.com.au/~malikoff/pdp11/DEC_H960_stabiliser_foot_left_A-H95…
How it might look, so far, attached to the H960 (no kickplate):
http://web.aanet.com.au/~malikoff/pdp11/DEC_H960_stabiliser_foot_left_A-H95…
I had thought the hole in the front corner of the H960 was for a front panel pivot, but it
seems the foot
does actually use it.
I don't have the kickplate nor access to measuring one, so that probably changes it a
bit too.
Steve.
7:45 a.m.
On 06/01/2018 12:04, Steve Malikoff via cctalk wrote:
Using the measurements provided by Vince I've
rejigged the drawing a bit and it ought to be closer.
Looks good to me except...
I had thought the hole in the front corner of the H960
was for a front panel pivot, but it seems the foot
does actually use it.
Yes, that's essential! But unlike in your drawing, the large screw that
holds the stabiliser foot into that hole is a large-head countersunk
screw, not a pan-head screw, and only the very bottom part of it is
threaded, 8-32 IIRC. The main part is a plain shank to fit the holes
for the front panel pivot and also the holes in the stabiliser; only the
part protruding below the stabiliser is threaded. It's fitted with a
shakeproof ("star") washer along with the nut, under the stabiliser. I
took all the stabilisers off my racks because they're superfluous in my
setup, and I can't remember where I put them, so I can't double-check.
I don't have the kickplate nor access to measuring
one, so that probably changes it a bit too.
That I do have, so I took it off one of the racks and you'll find some
(poor quality, from a phone that doesn't do close focus very well)
pictures at
http://www.dunnington.cx/DEC/H960/kickplate/IMG_0999.JPG
http://www.dunnington.cx/DEC/H960/kickplate/IMG_1000.JPG
http://www.dunnington.cx/DEC/H960/kickplate/IMG_1001.JPG
http://www.dunnington.cx/DEC/H960/kickplate/IMG_1002.JPG
http://www.dunnington.cx/DEC/H960/kickplate/IMG_1003.JPG
and a hastily drawn sketch of the dimensions at
http://www.dunnington.cx/DEC/H960/kickplate/kickplate.pdf
(NB This is a sketch, not a technical drawing, and is only approximately
to scale).
--
Pete
Pete Turnbull
8:11 a.m.
On 06/01/2018 15:45, Pete Turnbull via cctalk wrote:
On 06/01/2018 12:04, Steve Malikoff via cctalk wrote:
Correction - it's 10-32. I found one of the screws, photo at
http://www.dunnington.cx/DEC/H960/kickplate/IMG_1006.JPG
The head diameter is 15.9mm (5/8")
It's a 45 degree countersink with a flattened underside
The shank diameter is 7.9mm (5/16") and 49mm long
The threaded portion is 15mm long x 10-32
The overall length is 66.7mm (2-5/8")
--
Pete
Pete Turnbull
Using the measurements provided by Vince I've
rejigged the drawing a
bit and it ought to be closer.
Looks good to me except...
I had thought the hole in the front corner of the
H960 was for a front
panel pivot, but it seems the foot does actually use it.
Yes, that's essential!? But unlike in your drawing, the large screw that
holds the stabiliser foot into that hole is a large-head countersunk
screw, not a pan-head screw, and only the very bottom part of it is
threaded, 8-32 IIRC. 
4:54 p.m.
Sigh. Third time lucky.
On 06/01/2018 16:11, Pete Turnbull via cctalk wrote:
Correction - it's 10-32.?? I found one of the
screws, photo at
http://www.dunnington.cx/DEC/H960/kickplate/IMG_1006.JPG
No, as would be obvious to anyone looking carefully at the photo (or the
real thing!), it's 1/4" x 20 UNC. I really must learn to think before
putting finger to keyboard.
--
Pete
Pete Turnbull
5:44 p.m.
On 01/06/2018 04:54 PM, Pete Turnbull via cctalk wrote:
No, as would be obvious to anyone looking carefully at
the photo (or the
real thing!), it's 1/4" x 20 UNC.? I really must learn to think before
putting finger to keyboard.
If it's "quarter-twenty", that's a size shared by many refrigerators
and
other heavy household appliances. I think I even have a few of those
mushroom-headed screws salvaged from one.
A visit to an appliance dealer might be in order.
--Chuck
6:07 p.m.
On 07/01/2018 01:44, Chuck Guzis via cctalk wrote:
On 01/06/2018 04:54 PM, Pete Turnbull via cctalk
wrote:
Except the proper screws are countersink head, not mushroom, because
mushroom heads would prevent the kickplate being fitted (and the shank
is 5/16" - only the end is threaded 1/4-20).
--
Pete
Pete Turnbull
No, as would be obvious to anyone looking
carefully at the photo (or the
real thing!), it's 1/4" x 20 UNC.? I really must learn to think before
putting finger to keyboard.
If it's "quarter-twenty", that's a size shared by many refrigerators
and
other heavy household appliances. I think I even have a few of those
mushroom-headed screws salvaged from one.
7:44 p.m.
On 01/06/2018 06:07 PM, Pete Turnbull via cctalk wrote:
On 07/01/2018 01:44, Chuck Guzis via cctalk wrote:
Ah, okay--I'm used to HP racks, which are a bit more traditional.
Well, there's always the ol' lathe...
--Chuck
On 01/06/2018 04:54 PM, Pete Turnbull via cctalk
wrote:
Except the proper screws are countersink head, not mushroom, because
mushroom heads would prevent the kickplate being fitted (and the shank
is 5/16" - only the end is threaded 1/4-20). No, as would be obvious to anyone looking
carefully at the photo (or the
real thing!), it's 1/4" x 20 UNC.? I really must learn to think before
putting finger to keyboard.
If it's "quarter-twenty", that's a size shared by many refrigerators
and
other heavy household appliances.? I think I even have a few of those
mushroom-headed screws salvaged from one.
11:57 p.m.
Pete said
On 07/01/2018 01:44, Chuck Guzis via cctalk wrote:
Thanks Pete and everyone, really fantastic input.
Using the new bolt info, it's refined a little more:
http://web.aanet.com.au/~malikoff/pdp11/DEC_H960_stabiliser_foot_left_A-H95…
I can't find anything suitable on MMC
(https://www.mcmaster.com/#countersunk-head-machine-screws/=1b0p4yz )
so Chuck's probably right, machine them up. Maybe start from a long 5/16" shank
hex-head bolt and put the
countersink and 1/4-20 thread on.
Thanks for the drawing for the kickplate. I'm assuming the plate goes on after the
feet have been placed
on the rack, and the #10 screws hold it all together. I'm guessing the kickplate is 16
guage sheetmetal..?
Steve.
On 01/06/2018 04:54 PM, Pete Turnbull via cctalk
wrote:
Except the proper screws are countersink head, not mushroom, because
mushroom heads would prevent the kickplate being fitted (and the shank
is 5/16" - only the end is threaded 1/4-20). No, as would be obvious to anyone looking
carefully at the photo (or the
real thing!), it's 1/4" x 20 UNC.? I really must learn to think before
putting finger to keyboard.
If it's "quarter-twenty", that's a size shared by many refrigerators
and
other heavy household appliances. I think I even have a few of those
mushroom-headed screws salvaged from one. 
7 Jan
7 Jan
4:39 a.m.
On 07/01/2018 07:57, Steve Malikoff via cctalk wrote:
I can't find anything suitable on MMC
(https://www.mcmaster.com/#countersunk-head-machine-screws/=1b0p4yz
) so Chuck's probably right, machine them up. Maybe start from a long
5/16" shank hex-head bolt and put the countersink and 1/4-20 thread
on.
That should work.
Thanks for the drawing for the kickplate. I'm
assuming the plate goes
on after the feet have been placed on the rack, and the #10 screws
hold it all together. I'm guessing the kickplate is 16 guage
sheetmetal..?
Near enough, my micrometer says between 1.65mm and 1.70mm, the variation
probably being due to the paint. For our American listeners, that's
16SWG (not AWG!).
--
Pete
Pete Turnbull
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days inactive
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days old
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