30 Mar
2003
30 Mar
'03
10:54 a.m.
Tony (and others ;-),
How does one go about looking for the right place to install an NTSC
video input jack into a B&W TV without schematics? I have the "Cheap
Video Cookbook" which describes the technique, but I'm trying to do
this to a $20 K-Mart 4" B&W TV set (Spectra Model 52-BWR). Among
other appeals, it's battery/auto/AC powered and should work great with,
say, an 1802 with an 1861 (Elf, VIP, et al). Good portable demo set
for low-res graphics.
If it helps, the largest IC appears to be marked as follows...
CD5151CP
EP3 II
DE028
Thanks.
-ethan
30 Mar
30 Mar
11:13 a.m.
Given nothing but the set; no doc of any kind (have you Googled for a
Sams Photofact of it?) I would get the number of the CRT, find the
control grid pin, and trace that wire from the socket back to the board.
That will get you in the neighborhood of the video amps - then some simple
signal injection [even a metal needle using 'hum' injection from your body
capacitace] might show up some traces where demodulated video lives. You
can then experiment with the proper place , right coupling capacitor,
polarity, etc., to apply the computer video.
If you have a scope, this can also be done by inspection, rather than
injection.
The usual Cautionary Parables about working on naked TVs apply. zzzzap!
Cheers
John
12:13 p.m.
Given nothing but the set; no doc of any kind (have
you Googled for a
I assume there's no schematic stuck inside the set (stranger things have
happened...)
Sams Photofact of it?) I would get the number of the
CRT, find the
control grid pin, and trace that wire from the socket back to the board.
Be careful. In many TVs sold in the UK (and I guess elsewhere -- I am not
only talking about sets designed in the UK), the control grid is used for
the brightness control only, and the video signal is applied to the cathode.
Most small TVs, particularly those designed to run off a 12V car battery,
use a 7 pin CRT. The pinout is almost standardised at :
1 g1 (control grid)
2 cathode
3 heater
4 heater
5 control grid (linked to 1)
6 first anode ('screen control')
7 focus (second) anode
That will get you in the neighborhood of the video
amps - then some simple
If you're lucky, the video output stage will be discrete components and
easy to hack. If you're unlucky it'll be hidden inside a 'jungle' IC...
You also need to get the sync signals in somehow. If you're lucky
(again!), you will find a point at the input of the video amplifier that
also feeds the sync separator -- which means you can feed in composite
video with no problems. After all, the signal at the output of the video
detector stage _is_ composite video, so the set must be capable of
displaying such a signal. The problem comes when this point only exists
within an IC.
The usual Cautionary Parables about working on naked
TVs apply. zzzzap!
Be very careful if you work on mains-only sets. Many of these had a live
chassis (connected to one side of the power line) with no transformer
isolation. Connecting one of those to your classic computer can apply
mains voltage to places where you don't want it, and give you a nasty
(and possibly fatal) shock, or worse still do serious damage to said
classic computer.
This is unlikely to apply to a set that runs off batteries too (in 99% of
the cases, the mains is stepped down to 12V using a conventional
transformer/retifier circuit), but it can't hurt to check. If in doubt,
run the set off an isolated 12V supply connected to the battery
terminals, rather than using the internal mains PSU of the set.
-tony
12:30 p.m.
--- Tony Duell <ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk> wrote:
Nope. I'd be nice, though.
Naturally.
Given
nothing but the set; no doc of any kind (have you Googled for a
I assume there's no schematic stuck inside the set (stranger things have
happened...) If you're lucky, the video output stage will be
discrete components and
easy to hack. If you're unlucky it'll be hidden inside a 'jungle' IC...
You also need to get the sync signals in somehow. If you're lucky
(again!), you will find a point at the input of the video amplifier that
also feeds the sync separator -- which means you can feed in composite
video with no problems. After all, the signal at the output of the video
detector stage _is_ composite video, so the set must be capable of
displaying such a signal. The problem comes when this point only exists
within an IC.
If it helps, the tuner is on a seperate board with a 4-wire cable to
the main board. There are a couple of tunable elements (cap, coil),
a few caps, diodes and a single IC - CD2003GP
The usual
Cautionary Parables about working on naked TVs apply.
zzzzap! Be very careful if you work on mains-only sets...
This one is internal batteries or 12V car plug or a 12VDC wall wart.
Of course, the internal voltages are still typical for CRT use, but
no hot-chassis here.
-ethan
31 Mar
31 Mar
12:31 p.m.
You also need
to get the sync signals in somehow. If you're lucky
(again!), you will find a point at the input of the video amplifier that
also feeds the sync separator -- which means you can feed in composite
video with no problems. After all, the signal at the output of the video
detector stage _is_ composite video, so the set must be capable of
displaying such a signal. The problem comes when this point only exists
within an IC.
If it helps, the tuner is on a seperate board with a 4-wire cable to
the main board. There are a couple of tunable elements (cap, coil), a few caps, diodes and a single IC - CD2003GP
What's on the main board? How many chips, and are there any discrete
transistors? You really need to find the video detector stage -- the
output side of this is an almost perfect place to feed in composite video.
This one is internal batteries or 12V car plug or a
12VDC wall wart.
Of course, the internal voltages are still typical for CRT use, but
no hot-chassis here.
OK, I think it's safe to assume this set doesn't have a live (hot) chassis.
-tony
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