23 Feb
2012
23 Feb
'12
11:56 a.m.
What's the parts availability like for Atari CX-2600A consoles? I've been
offered one locally which the owner says "has a missing knob" - at the
moment I'm guessing that means one of the four control levers on the top
has been snapped off (but I'm awaiting clearer info). I'm totally
unfamiliar with these machines; if that is the case, I don't know if that
also means there's likely to be PCB damage or if it's more of a cosmetic issue?
They also say they can't find "a connector" to hook it up in order to test
it - that's a bit light on detail, too! Again, I'm totally unfamiliar with
these critters - do they have a built-in RF modulator and just use a
standard co-ax cable to the TV? Or are they composite video output? Or
something else entirely? What about PSU; is this internal, or an external
brick?
I expect its value in current untested state is peanuts (which might end up
being a problem if the seller equates age with value) - even tested,
complete units with a similar amount of games don't seem to sell for very
much. It'd be nice to get a handle on cost to fix any external issues
though (setting aside any electronic problems which might be lurking - are
there any gotchas in terms of these beasts being known for bit-rot?)
cheers
Jules (never an Atari owner!)
23 Feb
23 Feb
12:50 p.m.
The Atari 2600 has a built-in RF modulator and IIRC a permanently attached
RF cord with an RCA plug on the end which was intended to be plugged into a
"TV/GAME" switchbox.
On Thu, Feb 23, 2012 at 2:56 PM, Jules Richardson <
jules.richardson99 at gmail.com> wrote:
What's the parts availability like for Atari CX-2600A consoles? I've been
offered one locally which the owner says "has a missing knob" - at the
moment I'm guessing that means one of the four control levers on the top
has been snapped off (but I'm awaiting clearer info). I'm totally
unfamiliar with these machines; if that is the case, I don't know if that
also means there's likely to be PCB damage or if it's more of a cosmetic
issue?
They also say they can't find "a connector" to hook it up in order to test
it - that's a bit light on detail, too! Again, I'm totally unfamiliar with
these critters - do they have a built-in RF modulator and just use a
standard co-ax cable to the TV? Or are they composite video output? Or
something else entirely? What about PSU; is this internal, or an external
brick?
I expect its value in current untested state is peanuts (which might end
up being a problem if the seller equates age with value) - even tested,
complete units with a similar amount of games don't seem to sell for very
much. It'd be nice to get a handle on cost to fix any external issues
though (setting aside any electronic problems which might be lurking - are
there any gotchas in terms of these beasts being known for bit-rot?)
cheers
Jules (never an Atari owner!)
24 Feb
24 Feb
1:19 p.m.
The Atari 2600 has a built-in RF modulator and IIRC a permanently attached
RF cord with an RCA plug on the end which was intended to be plugged into a
"TV/GAME" switchbox.
IIRC tjhat switchbox contains what we (in the UK) call a 'Balun'. I am
not sure if that term has crossed the Pond, it's an abreviation of
'Balanced <-> Unbalanced'.
The outptu of the RF modualtor is a 75 OHm unbalanced signal, I seem to
rememebr most US TVs use a 300 Ohm balanced aerial (antenna) input, which
maks siense given the aerial is likelyu to abe a dipole. European TVs
ahve a 75 Ohm unbalanced inputs, which is electrical nosense to connect
to a dipole, but it works anyway...
My expeirence is that with somethign like a gmaes console, if you don't
ahve the right Balun, you can get away with just connectign the inner and
outer of the RCA phono connecotr to the aerial terminals o nthe TV. It's
no a match in any sense of the word, but you'll get a perfectly useable
picture.
-tony
2:58 p.m.
On Fri, 24 Feb 2012, Tony Duell wrote:
In the US, the term "balun" is not used by the general public. It's used
mostly by people into radio professionals or hams.
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?
The Atari 2600
has a built-in RF modulator and IIRC a permanently attached
RF cord with an RCA plug on the end which was intended to be plugged into a
"TV/GAME" switchbox.
IIRC tjhat switchbox contains what we (in the UK) call a 'Balun'. I am
not sure if that term has crossed the Pond, it's an abreviation of
'Balanced <-> Unbalanced'. 
3:12 p.m.
Used the term balun often during Token Ring installs too.
Balun always referred to the cable changer to go from 75 ohm to 300 ohm
for TV connections too....
David Griffith wrote:
On Fri, 24 Feb 2012, Tony Duell wrote:
In the US, the term "balun" is not used by the general public. It's
used mostly by people into radio professionals or hams.
The Atari
2600 has a built-in RF modulator and IIRC a permanently
attached
RF cord with an RCA plug on the end which was intended to be plugged
into a
"TV/GAME" switchbox.
IIRC tjhat switchbox contains what we (in the UK) call a 'Balun'. I am
not sure if that term has crossed the Pond, it's an abreviation of
'Balanced <-> Unbalanced'. 
11:57 a.m.
New subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
[...]
Which is a Balun in the true sense. A transfomer from the 75 Ohm
unbalanced cable to the 300 ohm balanced TV input. 
12:21 p.m.
New subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
Very simple:
AN unbalanced cable is one where one conductor
is grounded. Most coaxial cables are un balanced: the outer
shield is grounded, the center conductor carries the signal.
For balanced lines, neither conductor is at ground potential;
neither line is grounded. A good example of this is the
pairs used on differential SCSI interface (as well as SMD and
possibly others). Relative to ground, both wires carry signal.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: mouse at rodents-montreal.org
Sent: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 14:57:43 -0500 (EST)
To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
Subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
Okay, now I'm curious. What's unbalanced about the one and balanced
about the other? (Of course, it quite possibly would be perfectly
obvious if I knew more about the relevant interfaces.)
/~\ The ASCII Mouse
\ / Ribbon Campaign
X Against HTML mouse at rodents-montreal.org
/ \ Email! 7D C8 61 52 5D E7 2D 39 4E F1 31 3E E8 B3 27 4B
____________________________________________________________
Send your photos by email in seconds...
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Works in all emails, instant messengers, blogs, forums and social networks.
[...]
Which is a Balun in the true sense. A transfomer from the 75 Ohm
unbalanced cable to the 300 ohm balanced TV input. 
1:37 p.m.
New subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
On Feb 25, 2012, at 3:21 PM, N0body H0me wrote:
Very simple:
AN unbalanced cable is one where one conductor
is grounded. Most coaxial cables are un balanced: the outer
shield is grounded, the center conductor carries the signal.
For balanced lines, neither conductor is at ground potential;
neither line is grounded. A good example of this is the
pairs used on differential SCSI interface (as well as SMD and
possibly others). Relative to ground, both wires carry signal.
The additional benefit of balanced conductors is that they have
a much higher immunity to common-mode noise (i.e. noise that is
identical on both signals) because the actual signal is the
*difference* between the two legs. Thus, if your actual signal
is A-B, and your noise makes it (A+n)-(B+n), the noise will be
cancelled out.
That's the theory, anyway; noise is seldom 100% common mode,
and even when it is, most real-world differential amps will
let through a little common-mode noise (and if there's enough
to overdrive the inputs, you get other interesting distortion
effects).
Note that a balanced signal doesn't necessarily need to be
entirely free of ground; LVDS, for example, has very defined
common-mode voltage offsets so that systems can be DC-coupled
instead of sticking a capacitor inline to block a DC offset
that's not what your input amp is designed for.
- Dave
12:23 p.m.
New subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
On 02/25/2012 02:57 PM, Mouse wrote:
Compare coaxial cable with twin-lead. In coaxial cable, there's a
center conductor surrounded by a (usually grounded) shield, which acts
as the other conductor. In twin-lead, the two conductors are
symmetrical, and (usually) neither is grounded.
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
Which is a
Balun in the true sense. A transfomer from the 75 Ohm
unbalanced cable to the 300 ohm balanced TV input.
Okay, now I'm curious. What's unbalanced about the one and balanced
about the other? (Of course, it quite possibly would be perfectly
obvious if I knew more about the relevant interfaces.) 
1:48 p.m.
New subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
On 25 Feb 2012 at 14:57, Mouse wrote:
Okay, now I'm curious. What's unbalanced about the one and balanced
about the other? (Of course, it quite possibly would be perfectly
obvious if I knew more about the relevant interfaces.)
Think differential vs. single-ended. In differential, both lines
carry the same signal, just 180 degrees out of phase, whereas on
conductor in an unbalanced/single-ended line is at a constant fixed
potenetial.
You know this if you fool with various flavors of SCSI or, say, RS422
vs. RS423.
--Chuck
[...]
Which is a Balun in the true sense. A
transfomer from the 75 Ohm
unbalanced cable to the 300 ohm balanced TV input. 
3:13 p.m.
New subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
On Sat, 25 Feb 2012, Chuck Guzis wrote:
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 13:48:10 -0800
From: Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com>
Reply-To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk at
classiccmp.org>
Subject: Re: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
On 25 Feb 2012 at 14:57, Mouse wrote:
Okay, now I'm curious. What's unbalanced about the one and balanced
about the other? (Of course, it quite possibly would be perfectly
obvious if I knew more about the relevant interfaces.)
Think differential vs. single-ended. In differential, both lines
carry the same signal, just 180 degrees out of phase, whereas on
conductor in an unbalanced/single-ended line is at a constant fixed
potenetial.
You know this if you fool with various flavors of SCSI or, say, RS422
vs. RS423.
--Chuck
Also coax based Ethernet vs twisted pair
Peter Wallace
[...]
Which is a Balun in the true sense. A
transfomer from the 75 Ohm
unbalanced cable to the 300 ohm balanced TV input. 
3:02 p.m.
New subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 14:57:43 -0500
From: mouse at rodents-montreal.org
To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
Subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
Okay, now I'm curious. What's unbalanced about the one and balanced
about the other? (Of course, it quite possibly would be perfectly
obvious if I knew more about the relevant interfaces.)
/~\ The ASCII Mouse
\ / Ribbon Campaign
X Against HTML mouse at rodents-montreal.org
/ \ Email! 7D C8 61 52 5D E7 2D 39 4E F1 31 3E E8 B3 27 4B
Hi
Balanced is like 300 ohm twin lead ( no ground )
unbalances is like coax. One side is ground ( Shield ).
Dwight
[...]
Which is a Balun in the true sense. A transfomer from the 75 Ohm
unbalanced cable to the 300 ohm balanced TV input.
26 Feb
26 Feb
10:54 a.m.
New subject: Baluns [was Re: Atari CX2600A parts...]
[...]
Which is a Balun in the true sense. A transfomer from the 75 Ohm
unbalanced cable to the 300 ohm balanced TV input.
24 Feb
24 Feb
3:22 p.m.
On 02/24/2012 05:58 PM, David Griffith wrote:
In the US, the term "balun" is not used by the general public. It's used
mostly by people into radio professionals or hams.
...but in that world, it's in ALL of the literature, and is common
knowledge.
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
The Atari 2600 has a built-in RF modulator and IIRC a
permanently
attached
RF cord with an RCA plug on the end which was intended to be plugged
into a
"TV/GAME" switchbox.
IIRC tjhat switchbox contains what we (in the UK) call a 'Balun'. I am
not sure if that term has crossed the Pond, it's an abreviation of
'Balanced <-> Unbalanced'.
25 Feb
25 Feb
11:15 a.m.
IIRC tjhat switchbox contains what we (in the UK) call a 'Balun'. I am
not sure if that term has crossed the Pond, it's an abreviation of
'Balanced <-> Unbalanced'.
In the US, the term "balun" is not used by the general public. It's used
mostly by people into radio professionals or hams.
In othe words people who need to talk about such thigs.
The term 'Balun' is commonly used by RF engineers, radio amateurs, etc
over here. It sounds like it's used in the same way in the States too. I
wans't sure, it might haver been one of those terms like 'Valve' which is
different ion the States.
-tony
23 Feb
23 Feb
12:51 p.m.
--- On Thu, 2/23/12, Jules Richardson <jules.richardson99 at gmail.com> wrote:
What's the parts availability like for Atari
CX-2600A
consoles? I've been offered one locally which the owner says
"has a missing knob" - at the moment I'm guessing that means
one of the four control levers on the top has been snapped
off (but I'm awaiting clearer info). I'm totally unfamiliar
with these machines; if that is the case, I don't know if
that also means there's likely to be PCB damage or if it's
more of a cosmetic issue?
The tops of the switch handles usually just break off. The PCB is single sided, and really
simple, especially where the switches are. Chances are, the switch body is still there,
with just the silver part on the top snapped off. You can substitute any switch that will
fit, but the "right" switch might be hard to get.
They also say they can't find "a
connector" to hook it up in
order to test it - that's a bit light on detail, too! Again,
I'm totally unfamiliar with these critters - do they have a
built-in RF modulator and just use a standard co-ax cable to
the TV? Or are they composite video output? Or something
else entirely? What about PSU; is this internal, or an
external brick?
The power supply is a simple unregulated 9v DC wall wart, supplied with a 1/8" mono
headphone plug (tip positive). Internally it feeds a 7805 voltage regulator, so you can
supply it with just about any DC voltage from 7 volts up to 35 volts, and it will work -
just, you know, it'll get real hot at higher voltages :)
Internally, the Atari runs on 5 volts DC.
Connection to the television is through an integral coaxial cable, terminating in an RCA
plug. This is an RF TV signal, on channel 2 or 3 (switch setting dependent). You need an
old style "switchbox" to connect it to the VHF terminals on the back of a
television, or you can use a simple F connector to RCA adapter to connect it to the cable
input of a newer set. The latter is preferable, the cheap tin switchboxes leak RF
interference like a sieve. The newer type automatic switchboxes intended for a Nintendo or
Sega Genesis won't work, as the Atari's signal is too weak to trip them.
I expect its value in current untested state is
peanuts
(which might end up being a problem if the seller equates
age with value) - even tested, complete units with a similar
amount of games don't seem to sell for very much. It'd be
nice to get a handle on cost to fix any external issues
though (setting aside any electronic problems which might be
lurking - are there any gotchas in terms of these beasts
being known for bit-rot?)
The consoles are worth very little in general. Don't pay more than $20 for one in
working condition. Unless, of course, it's the very early "heavy sixer",
made in Sunnyvale, which is worth a bit more simply because it was the first model. But
the common 4 switch versions are worth very, very little. Especially broken.
There's not much in an Atari to break, usually it's bad solder joints at
controller ports and switches, occasionally a bad 7805. Bad power packs are common because
of the cheap nasty wire they used. There are three chips inside, the most common failure
is the RIOT chip, which handles the controller ports.
The Atari 2600 is a fantastic machine, and a wonderful game console. It's very simple,
and very reliable. Happy gaming!
-Ian
1:15 p.m.
--- On Thu, 2/23/12, Mr Ian Primus <ian_primus at yahoo.com> wrote:
The tops of the switch handles usually just break off.
The
PCB is single sided, and really simple, especially where the
switches are.
I just realized my mistake and should correct it now before other people call me out on
it... The 6 switch Atari consoles have a separate PCB for the switches, which is single
sided. The later 4 switch consoles have only one board, double sided, which contains all
the electronics as well as the switches.
Either way, snapping off a switch is unlikely to cause any damage to the PCB that
can't be easily patched.
-Ian
1:46 p.m.
On 02/23/2012 02:51 PM, Mr Ian Primus wrote:
Ahh, OK, same setup as my Acorn Atoms then - I've probably got a spare PSU
somewhere that can supply enough current, or I'll build one, or I'll bypass
the regulator and feed it regulated 5V from a junk PC PSU...
--- On Thu, 2/23/12, Jules
Richardson<jules.richardson99 at gmail.com>
wrote:
Thanks - I do like to make these kinds of things 'right' eventually, but at
the same time it doesn't bother me if they're non-original for months or
years in the meantime, so I'd be happy to improvise a fix for the broken
one and just keep an eye out for a real replacement.
What's the parts availability like for Atari
CX-2600A consoles? I've
been offered one locally which the owner says "has a missing knob" -
at the moment I'm guessing that means one of the four control levers
on the top has been snapped off (but I'm awaiting clearer info). I'm
totally unfamiliar with these machines; if that is the case, I don't
know if that also means there's likely to be PCB damage or if it's
more of a cosmetic issue?
The tops of the switch handles usually just break off. The PCB is single
sided, and really simple, especially where the switches are. Chances
are, the switch body is still there, with just the silver part on the
top snapped off. You can substitute any switch that will fit, but the
"right" switch might be hard to get. They also say
they can't find "a connector" to hook it up in order to
test it - that's a bit light on detail, too! Again, I'm totally
unfamiliar with these critters - do they have a built-in RF modulator
and just use a standard co-ax cable to the TV? Or are they composite
video output? Or something else entirely? What about PSU; is this
internal, or an external brick?
The power supply is a simple unregulated 9v DC wall wart, supplied with
a 1/8" mono headphone plug (tip positive). Internally it feeds a 7805
voltage regulator, so you can supply it with just about any DC voltage
from 7 volts up to 35 volts, and it will work - just, you know, it'll
get real hot at higher voltages :)
Internally, the Atari runs on 5 volts DC. Connection to the television is through an integral
coaxial cable,
terminating in an RCA plug. This is an RF TV signal, on channel 2 or 3
(switch setting dependent). You need an old style "switchbox" to connect
it to the VHF terminals on the back of a television, or you can use a
simple F connector to RCA adapter to connect it to the cable input of a
newer set. The latter is preferable, the cheap tin switchboxes leak RF
interference like a sieve. The newer type automatic switchboxes intended
for a Nintendo or Sega Genesis won't work, as the Atari's signal is too
weak to trip them.
OK, I don't think that will be a problem; I've got an old CRT TV kicking
around with RF input which will hopefully work.
The consoles are worth very little in general.
Don't pay more than $20
for one in working condition. Unless, of course, it's the very early
"heavy sixer", made in Sunnyvale, which is worth a bit more simply
because it was the first model. But the common 4 switch versions are
worth very, very little. Especially broken.
Yes, it sounds like this is a 4-switch one (I think the 6-switch ones
lacked the 'A' designation). I'm not sure if it's an earlier 4-switch with
the wood-grain or a later all-black one (but the owner says they bought it
somewhere between '79 and '82, and some googling suggests that the
all-black ones didn't come out until some time in '82)
This one apparently has around 20 games with it, so it is reasonable in
that aspect - I did a quick check on ebay and they seem to be around the
$35-$40 mark for a *working* one with that many, but obviously cosmetic
damage and unknown operational status make a big difference (well, at least
they do to me :-)
cheers
Jules
2:22 p.m.
On Thu, 23 Feb 2012, Jules Richardson wrote:
See http://longhornengineer.com/atari-av-mods/ for some very good AV mod
boards for the 2600 and 7800. What I did for mine was take an octopus
cable with composite video, svideo, and the two audio channels and run it
through the same hole that the RF cable went. I didn't want to drill into
the case of my precious six-switcher.
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail?
Connection to
the television is through an integral coaxial cable,
terminating in an RCA plug. This is an RF TV signal, on channel 2 or 3
(switch setting dependent). You need an old style "switchbox" to connect
it to the VHF terminals on the back of a television, or you can use a
simple F connector to RCA adapter to connect it to the cable input of a
newer set. The latter is preferable, the cheap tin switchboxes leak RF
interference like a sieve. The newer type automatic switchboxes intended
for a Nintendo or Sega Genesis won't work, as the Atari's signal is too
weak to trip them.
OK, I don't think that will be a problem; I've got an old CRT TV kicking
around with RF input which will hopefully work. 
1:07 p.m.
Hi Jules,
Yes, with rough treatment those turned switches do break off. Some are
momentary and others are 2 position types, though they all look identical.
Probably no PCB damage, normally the body of the switch stays put and the
shaft goes missing. The connector is probably the power adaptor, 9VDC 600mA
or so. Shuold be easy, though they do have a 3.5mm plug. Depending on the
model, it could be the RF cable, though the original model had a fixed
cable (the 'Junior' model had a socket and removable cable). And yes, these
things really aren't worth a great deal, even here in New Zealand, perhaps
NZ$60 with a couple of cartridges (that's maybe US$45 or something, at a
vague guess). An interesting fix-up project though. I find them reasonably
reliable, though ones with faulty ICs are pretty common. Even fixing that
isn't so hard. Feel free to drpo me a note if I can help, I have messed
with these things a bit.
Cheers,
Mike
On Thu, 23 Feb 2012 13:56:36 -0600, Jules Richardson
<jules.richardson99 at gmail.com> wrote:
What's the parts availability like for Atari
CX-2600A consoles? I've been
offered one locally which the owner says "has a
missing knob" - at the
moment I'm guessing that means one of the four control levers on the top
has been snapped off (but I'm awaiting clearer info). I'm totally
unfamiliar with these machines; if that is the case, I don't know if that
also means there's likely to be PCB damage or if
it's more of a cosmetic
issue?
They also say they can't find "a connector" to hook it up in order to
test
it - that's a bit light on detail, too! Again,
I'm totally unfamiliar
with
these critters - do they have a built-in RF modulator
and just use a
standard co-ax cable to the TV? Or are they composite video output? Or
something else entirely? What about PSU; is this internal, or an external
brick?
I expect its value in current untested state is peanuts (which might end
up
being a problem if the seller equates age with value) - even tested,
complete units with a similar amount of games don't seem to sell for very
much. It'd be nice to get a handle on cost to fix
any external issues
though (setting aside any electronic problems which might be lurking -
are
there any gotchas in terms of these beasts being known
for bit-rot?)
cheers
Jules (never an Atari owner!)
3:11 p.m.
You can get any spare parts for any Atari product from Best Electronics
www.best-electronics-ca.com
Curt
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 23, 2012, at 4:07 PM, Mike van Bokhoven <mike at fenz.net> wrote:
Hi Jules,
Yes, with rough treatment those turned switches do break off. Some are
momentary and others are 2 position types, though they all look identical.
Probably no PCB damage, normally the body of the switch stays put and the
shaft goes missing. The connector is probably the power adaptor, 9VDC 600mA
or so. Shuold be easy, though they do have a 3.5mm plug. Depending on the
model, it could be the RF cable, though the original model had a fixed
cable (the 'Junior' model had a socket and removable cable). And yes, these
things really aren't worth a great deal, even here in New Zealand, perhaps
NZ$60 with a couple of cartridges (that's maybe US$45 or something, at a
vague guess). An interesting fix-up project though. I find them reasonably
reliable, though ones with faulty ICs are pretty common. Even fixing that
isn't so hard. Feel free to drpo me a note if I can help, I have messed
with these things a bit.
Cheers,
Mike
On Thu, 23 Feb 2012 13:56:36 -0600, Jules Richardson
<jules.richardson99 at gmail.com> wrote:
What's the parts availability like for Atari
CX-2600A consoles? I've been
offered one locally which the owner says
"has a missing knob" - at the
moment I'm guessing that means one of the four control levers on the top
has been snapped off (but I'm awaiting clearer info). I'm totally
unfamiliar with these machines; if that is the case, I don't know if that
also means there's likely to be PCB damage or
if it's more of a cosmetic
issue?
They also say they can't find "a connector" to hook it up in order to
test
it - that's a bit light on detail, too!
Again, I'm totally unfamiliar
with
these critters - do they have a built-in RF
modulator and just use a
standard co-ax cable to the TV? Or are they composite video output? Or
something else entirely? What about PSU; is this internal, or an external
brick?
I expect its value in current untested state is peanuts (which might end
up
being a problem if the seller equates age with value) - even tested,
complete units with a similar amount of games don't seem to sell for very
much. It'd be nice to get a handle on cost to
fix any external issues
though (setting aside any electronic problems which might be lurking -
are
> there any gotchas in terms of these beasts being known for bit-rot?)
>
> cheers
>
> Jules (never an Atari owner!) 
24 Feb
24 Feb
11:28 a.m.
Man that website gave me a a headache trying to read it...
I want the polo shirt but I don't want to stay on that site long enough to order it.
________________________________
From: Curt Vendel <curt at atarimuseum.com>
You can get any spare parts for any Atari product from Best Electronics
www.best-electronics-ca.com
Curt
23 Feb
23 Feb
3:20 p.m.
Jules, there's two long running businesses that carry repair parts for
every Atari product -
myatari.com
http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/
They've been selling official service replacement parts since the 80's.
On Thu, Feb 23, 2012 at 1:56 PM, Jules Richardson
<jules.richardson99 at gmail.com> wrote:
What's the parts availability like for Atari CX-2600A consoles? I've been
offered one locally which the owner says "has a missing knob" - at the
moment I'm guessing that means one of the four control levers on the top has
been snapped off (but I'm awaiting clearer info). I'm totally unfamiliar
with these machines; if that is the case, I don't know if that also means
there's likely to be PCB damage or if it's more of a cosmetic issue?
They also say they can't find "a connector" to hook it up in order to test
it - that's a bit light on detail, too! Again, I'm totally unfamiliar with
these critters - do they have a built-in RF modulator and just use a
standard co-ax cable to the TV? Or are they composite video output? Or
something else entirely? What about PSU; is this internal, or an external
brick?
I expect its value in current untested state is peanuts (which might end up
being a problem if the seller equates age with value) - even tested,
complete units with a similar amount of games don't seem to sell for very
much. It'd be nice to get a handle on cost to fix any external issues though
(setting aside any electronic problems which might be lurking - are there
any gotchas in terms of these beasts being known for bit-rot?)
cheers
Jules (never an Atari owner!)
--
Marty
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