This is a (uhm) classic symptom of leaking caps on the Classic, and Classic II, and SE/30, and IIci, etc. We regularly discuss this issue (these days we usually just reference old threads) over on 68kmla.net. A search on "tantalum" is probably best, as the typical replacements we use are tantalums of the proper size and values. Use two pencils simultaneously. Radio Shack sells a 15 watt grounded pencil with a fine tip for less than $10. If you use two pencils you're much less likely to lift a pad by prying on a cap while heating one side, and after the other side has already cooled. If you were to use hot air, I find that modeling clay works conveniently and well to protect other components on the board. The simple procedure is: 1) Remove the old caps and remove the solder on the pads. 2) Clean the board thoroughly. 3) Replace the capacitors. To replace the caps, tin one pad. Place the cap carefully and hold it down with something like a small flat screwdriver. Heat the tinned pad until the caps sinks down to the pad. Remove the heat. Wait a few moments. Remove the pressing tool. Now solder the other pad/terminal. See, having me in your Spacecraft Design class all those years ago is coming in useful after all. Count the caps and the markings, and email me. I've got the replacements. Jeff Walther