I noticed that when I have everything on, the 25 A
breaker gets
warm. Fairly warm. Not hot, but markedly warm. I made sure the
wires are screwed very tight and the breaker is seated right, but
still it gets warm. That worries me a bit.
This is normal if the breaker is close to the trip current. Don't worry
about it. You may want to think about going to 30 Amperes.
Also, I think that my #10 wire is under-dimensioned
after all.
#10 is fine for a 25 Ampere circuit. Putting in a larger wire, like #8 or
#6 will not gain you anything unless the load is quite a long distance
from the breaker (voltage drop, basically - another
thing that you should
not worry about in your situation).
Since all the consumers are essentially doing some
(more or less)
good job of load balancing, eventually the neutral wire gets
quite a bit of load, possibly beyond 25 A. Theoretically up to
50 A. So, I should have used #8 or even #6 then.
If the two sides are load balancing perfectly, the neutral will not pass
any current. In an Edison feed (as this is correctly called), the neutral
carries only the difference of the currents. If one side of the 240 VAC
system draws 20 Amperes and the other side draws 22 Amperes, the neutral
will "provide" the missing 2 Amperes. At worst case, with one side full
at 25 and one side off, the neutral will pass the 25 Amperes.
However, the practical problem is that you can't
fit #6 wire into
a breaker contact screw. And even #8 is going to be on the low
end with 50 A. The best thing would be if neutral was twice as
thick here.
This is actually non-code. Do not do it.
I spliced a branch off with split bolts and lots of
electric tape.
for insulation. The branch terminates in a dedicated box with
the original outlets. The initially #8 AWG is distributed through
#10 wires to the various outlets. Even some #12 to the two
standard 110V outlets in that box.
Do you have a subpanel with breakers rated for the individual branches?
This is important. In almost every instance, if you go down any size of
wire from a larger feed, you must put in a breaker. If you do not, you
could cram too much current thru a branch, but the breaker feeding it will
not trip.
My concern there is, of course, that (a) the split
bolt construction
may develop resistance and increased heat dissipation.
This should not happen, as long as you stay away from aluminum wire or
split bolts.
Also (b) the
way I downsize and distribute the #6 feet to smaller wires in the
outlet box may lead to overcurrent if the devices aren't connected
where they should. I did my best to have the big suckers on thick
AWG and shorter length than the moderate consumers.
This is an example of my above point - plug something in to the wrong
outlet, and you may have a wire pair start to glow red, yet the big breaker
ahead will not trip.
The problem of course is that to do it properly would
require
upgrading the main feed, replacing the main breaker panel running
thousands of new wires, and sub-panels, where each machine essentially
has its own breaker, and of course the outlets and plugs need to be
all proper. Easy to spend $2000 or more in material and labor for that
upgrade. For equipment we run a few hours per week.
As the son of an electrician, I can say that it is *always* good to do it
properly. Houses burn down due to faulty wiring all the time. Many more
come *damn* close - I have seen obviously charred and melted wires in
many houses, saved only because the wire was not run right up against a beam.
I would think, if you do this yourself, you could have this project done
for a quarter of the cost. You could probably reuse quite a bit of what is
already installed, as it seems like you just need to put in some subpanel
breaker boxes at stategic points.
The NEC may seem picky (it is), but it is realy just a bunch of common
sense rules. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me.
William Donzelli
aw288(a)osfn.org