On Sunday 03 September 2006 09:19 am, Ray Arachelian wrote:
I remember playing with the code in this book and
forcing the 1541 to
seek past track #45. When you did this, the 1541 would emit a loud
clunk and then your drive head would be stuck. You'd have to take the
1541 apart and move the head manually.
I remember a lot of "repairs" that involved me doing exactly that, often
after the owner had been running some copy program...
It might have been that same book or another, but it
had info as to how
to tweak the motor speed of the 1541 with a fluorescent light. The
motor had lines on it which would appear to be stopped under the light
of a fluorescent source at either 50 or 60Hz. (There were two rings of
lines, one for US, and one for Europe.) There was also a pot on the
1541 board that you could tweak to control the motor speed.
Speed wasn't often a problem with those drives, excepting those few cases I
ran across where the tachometer winding in the motor opened up and they tried
to run at darn near twice the normal speed. More of a problem was bad belts,
they'd slip.
Another thing I ran into with the 1541 was that a
(diode) bridge
commonly blew out. The symptom of this was that the power LED would
flicker at 30Hz when this happened.
I've never seen one do that. I have seen them where you'd turn the unit on
and get no lights but the motor was running (bad 5V bridge) or you'd get
normal lights but no motor activity at all (bad 12V bridge).
I couldn't find the right bridge at my local Rat
Shack at the time,
That's exactly where I'd get the replacements I used, which were 4A parts
instead of the idiotic 1A parts that were in there in the first place. In
fact, I purchased a bunch of them back when and still have some, left over,
NOS, if anybody needs one. :-)
so after figuring out which of the 4 diodes in the
bridge died, I found a
large diode and soldered it to the pins of the bridge.) That bridge was a
single component, not 4 diodes, but it was an easy repair. The diode wasn't
quite right, so it didn't last very long, but it was a very easy repair, so
I just repeated it. :-)
That's one way to do it, I suppose. The only advantage I see to bridges as
opposed to separate diodes is convenience in manufacturing.
A few other tricks at the time, it was possible to get
stereo sound out
of both the C128 and the C64 by taking another SID chip (these were
expensive at the time ~$30-$50), and bend a couple of the pins. One was
an address pin, the other was the sound out pin. You could then place
the new SID chip right smack ontop of the existing one (piggy-back),
solder a wire to the sound out pin and you got stereo.
I've heard of that one before, but have never seen it done.
Another trick was if you had a tape drive, you could
use it as a very
crappy 1 bit audio digitizer. This didn't work all that well, but it
was something. Later someone wrote an article (in RUN Magazine
perhaps?) about getting a serial A->D converter. Was a little 8 pin
chip that you could attach to the CIA's shift register to read the
values off.
I have some of those old magazines around here someplace, maybe I oughta dig
them out and see what I have and what's in them. Mostly software stuff,
rather than hardware, as I recall.
--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin