15 Jul
2006
15 Jul
'06
2:33 p.m.
is wd-40 a good idea? I was thinking isopropyl alcohol
might not penetrate as well or quickly. And Im not
paying another tenner for that radio shack stuph,
especially since I already have a can of it *somewhere*.
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4:38 p.m.
is wd-40 a good idea? I was thinking isopropyl alcohol
Depends on whether you're trying to ruin the keyboard or not!
Round here, I call it 'Wanton Destruction 40'. The stuff sold in the UK
(and I assume elsewhere) is a mixture of many different hydrocarbons --
the short chain ones evapourate quickly, leaving the longer, waxy, ones
behind. Great at keeping rust off the garden tools, or the steel rods you
keep in stock, not good on precision machinery.
I've have the result of spraying a camera with it. It didn't cure the
original fault (one spring unhooked under the baseplate), now I'll have
to strip the whole darn thing down to clean it out. Clock repairers in the
UK are equally against this stuff.
Also be warned that like mineral oils, it will attack some common
plastics (it turns them brittle in my experience).
might not penetrate as well or quickly. And Im not
Propan-2-ol will pentrate pretty well. Anyway, you should probably
dismantle the keyboard and clean the parts separately (this takes me an
afternoon without rushing it).
paying another tenner for that radio shack stuph,
especially since I already have a can of it *somewhere*.
All I can say is that iff a keyboard sprayed with WD40 turns up on my
bench, the repair cost is \pounds 50.00 _minimum_ even if no replacement
parts are needed.
-tony
5:20 p.m.
is wd-40 a
good idea? I was thinking isopropyl alcohol
Depends on whether you're trying to
ruin the keyboard or not!
Round here, I call it 'Wanton Destruction 40'. The stuff sold in the UK
(and I assume elsewhere) is a mixture of many different hydrocarbons --
the short chain ones evapourate quickly, leaving the longer, waxy, ones
behind. Great at keeping rust off the garden tools, or the steel rods you
keep in stock, not good on precision machinery. 
5:30 p.m.
I think it means "Water Displacement".
http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html
--jc
Alexandre Souza wrote:
The problem is: WD-40 ISN'T A LUBRIFICATING
AGENT!!! How many times it
has to be shouted for people to understand? WD means Water Dispenser, is
something that isolates metal from water (and humidity). It SEEMS to be an
oil, but isn't a replacement for oil. It is SO thin that it can penetrate
everywhere (curiosity: Someday I put some WD inside a syringe with a very
thin needle. I used to ungrip some nuts, and needed the precision of the
needle to apply and not to mess with the entire device. I left it overnight
(full) in a horizontal position. Next morning it only had HALF the syringe
of WD. It had flowed thru the (very fine) needle and there was lots of WD on
my table. Incredible how thin it is!!!). So it is used to ungrip bolts, nuts
and like.
If you want to use WD as an oil, you can use cooking oil with the same
result - a total mess.
Greetz :)
Alexandre Souza
6:14 p.m.
You might try some paint- or hardware-store denatured alcohol. It's
basically ethanol with a bit a methanol added to make sure you don't try to
mix your martinis with it. It's used as a shellac thinner among other
things. I use it to clean flux residue from PCB's. It doesn't bother most
plastics.
Isopropyl alcohol might also be okay if you can get it in the pure form.
Don't use rubbing alcohol--it's usually about 70% alcohol with the balance
being water.
Ah, for a can of Freon TF....
Cheers,
Chuck
On 7/15/2006 at 8:30 PM J.C. Wren wrote:
I think it means "Water Displacement".
http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html
--jc
Alexandre Souza wrote:
penetrate
The problem is: WD-40 ISN'T A
LUBRIFICATING AGENT!!! How many times
it
has to be shouted for people to understand? WD
means Water Dispenser, is
something that isolates metal from water (and humidity). It SEEMS to be
an
> oil, but isn't a replacement for oil. It is SO thin that it can > everywhere (curiosity: Someday I put some WD
inside a syringe with a
very
thin needle. I
used to ungrip some nuts, and needed the precision of the
needle to apply and not to mess with the entire device. I left it
overnight
(full) in a horizontal position. Next morning it
only had HALF the
syringe
of WD. It had flowed thru the (very fine) needle
and there was lots of
WD on
my table. Incredible how thin it is!!!). So it is
used to ungrip bolts,
nuts
and like.
If you want to use WD as an oil, you can use cooking oil with the
same
> result - a total mess.
>
> Greetz :)
> Alexandre Souza
>
>
8:55 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
Isn't WD-40 pretty much kerosene (paraffin oil to those on the other side
of the pond) with some lighter solvents added? I've never found it to be
much better than kerosene for freeing rusted bolts at any rate.
Cheers,
Chuck
9:27 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
Chuck Guzis wrote:
Isn't WD-40 pretty much kerosene (paraffin oil to
those on the other side
of the pond) with some lighter solvents added? I've never found it to be
much better than kerosene for freeing rusted bolts at any rate.
Chuck,
I've heard that it's got kerosene in it, but I wouldn't know how to
verify that. You did forget one ingredient..... the fragrance!! WD-40
smells the way it does because they add the smell!!
Chad Fernandez <- going back to lurk mode
Michigan, USA
10:07 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
Isn't WD-40 pretty much kerosene (paraffin oil to
those on the other side
of the pond) with some lighter solvents added? I've never found it to be
much better than kerosene for freeing rusted bolts at any rate.
WD-40 is basically Stoddard's solvent with some light oils added.
Stoddard's solvent is a degreaser mixed to be relatively safe (fumes,
flashpoint, etc.) and is quite similar to what dry cleaners use to get
grease out of clothing. This is why WD-40 can be used effectively for
a light duty lubricant, as it "refloats" dried out grease by
dissolving the dried solids and mixing new oil in. Halfway decent
short term, light duty use is OK, but not good for anything involving
high speed, high loads, or medium to long periods of time between lube
jobs. And you have to admit - handy as hell. As much as machinists
complain about it, nearly all of them use it like the rest of us.
As far as the original post is concerned - BAD BAD BAD for electrical contacts!
And for rusted bolts - time is the key.
--
Will
11:39 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
On 7/16/2006 at 1:07 AM William Donzelli wrote:
WD-40 is basically Stoddard's solvent with some
light oils added.
From Wiki:
"White spirit, also known as Stoddard solvent is a paraffin-derived clear,
transparent liquid which is a common organic solvent used in painting and
decorating. It is a mixture of saturated aliphatic and alicyclic C7 to C12
hydrocarbons with a maximum content of 25% of C7 to C12 alkyl aromatic
hydrocarbons."
So, basically a close relative to paint thinner, right?
Cheers,
Chuck
1:58 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
William Donzelli wrote:
Another trick that works very well for me is to try tightening the bolt
slightly. Put the tool on, turn it clockwise (assuming a right-hand
thread), then try turning it anticlockwise again. About 95% of the time,
the bolt comes right out.
-tony
And for rusted bolts - time is the key.
and, more often than not, large amounts of heat...
3:39 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
On 7/16/2006 at 9:58 PM ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk wrote:
Another trick that works very well for me is to try
tightening the bolt
slightly. Put the tool on, turn it clockwise (assuming a right-hand
thread), then try turning it anticlockwise again. About 95% of the time,
the bolt comes right out.
When we work with stuck valve caps, etc. on brass instruments, rather than
apply force using something like a strap wrench, what works better is a
tangential blow with a hammer (rawhide head in the case of brass). The
concussive shock works where a steady torque does not--and the chances of
stripping threads or shearing bolts is much reduced.
Cheers,
Chuck
4:18 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
Chuck Guzis wrote:
On 7/16/2006 at 9:58 PM ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk
wrote:
When working on my car's suspension and drivetrain, I tend to use a
combination of penetrating lube, heat and concussion.
Peace... Sridhar
Another trick that works very well for me is to
try tightening the bolt
slightly. Put the tool on, turn it clockwise (assuming a right-hand
thread), then try turning it anticlockwise again. About 95% of the time,
the bolt comes right out.
When we work with stuck valve caps, etc. on brass instruments, rather than
apply force using something like a strap wrench, what works better is a
tangential blow with a hammer (rawhide head in the case of brass). The
concussive shock works where a steady torque does not--and the chances of
stripping threads or shearing bolts is much reduced.
5:23 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
When we work with stuck valve caps, etc. on brass
instruments, rather than
apply force using something like a strap wrench, what works better is a
tangential blow with a hammer (rawhide head in the case of brass). The
concussive shock works where a steady torque does not--and the chances of
stripping threads or shearing bolts is much reduced.
Thay are hard to find, but there is a class of wrench called a
striking wrench. It is made exactly for this purpose - a wrench with a
cube on the end of the handle so you can whack it with a hammer.
--
Will
17 Jul
17 Jul
4:12 a.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
Chuck Guzis wrote:
On 7/16/2006 at 9:58 PM ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk
wrote:
If I understand what you're saying, that's much like the technique
used in the oilfield called "pinging". We'd take a hammer roughly the
size of the bolt-head and just *gently* tap the head repeatedly. To the
side of the bolt if possible, but straight down works. It's a tedious
job, but I've never seen it fail, even when the bolt was swedged in.
Doc
Another trick that works very well for me is to
try tightening the bolt
slightly. Put the tool on, turn it clockwise
(assuming a right-hand
thread), then try turning it anticlockwise again. About 95% of the time,
the bolt comes right out.
When we work with stuck valve caps, etc. on brass instruments, rather than
apply force using something like a strap wrench, what works better is a
tangential blow with a hammer (rawhide head in the case of brass). The
concussive shock works where a steady torque does not--and the chances of
stripping threads or shearing bolts is much reduced.
16 Jul
16 Jul
1:41 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
Isn't WD-40 pretty much kerosene (paraffin oil to those on the other side
of the pond) with some lighter solvents added? I've never found it to be
much better than kerosene for freeing rusted bolts at any rate.
It has some heavier stuff added too. If you fill a container with WD40
and leave it overnight (cooling it is supposed to help too), it will
separate into 2 distinct layers. The top one is actually a reasonable
light oil, the bottom one is much like wax.
-tony
8:29 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
> Isn't WD-40 pretty much kerosene (paraffin
oil to those on the other
side
> of the pond) with some lighter solvents added?
I've never found it to
be
much better
than kerosene for freeing rusted bolts at any rate.
It has some heavier stuff added
too. If you fill a container with WD40
and leave it overnight (cooling it is supposed to help too), it will
separate into 2 distinct layers. The top one is actually a reasonable
light oil, the bottom one is much like wax.
8:52 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
On 7/16/2006 at 11:38 PM William Donzelli wrote:
I recall a friend who spent quite a bit of time in the Amazon basin once
mentioned to me that he'd flown on a then-ancient Ford Trimotor where the
pilot dumped a gallon of WD-40 into the tank along with the fuel...I don't
know why, however.
Cheers,
Chuck
The
brazilian WD-40 hasn't this property! :oO
Nor does the US WD-40. You can buy non-pressurized gallons (I think
that big) jugs of the stuff, and it is homogeneous. 
9:11 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
On 7/17/06, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
I recall a friend who spent quite a bit of time in the
Amazon basin once
mentioned to me that he'd flown on a then-ancient Ford Trimotor where the
pilot dumped a gallon of WD-40 into the tank along with the fuel...I don't
know why, however.
Mechanical fuel pump? Steel gas tank?
-ethan
9:31 p.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
On 7/17/2006 at 4:11 PM Ethan Dicks wrote:
Mechanical fuel pump? Steel gas tank?
Now, that's a thought. I'd forgotten about the perpetual state of
sogginess in the Amazon. Reminds me of a BBC news story on buffalo-riding
cops in the same general area:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/from_our_own_correspondent/5126216.stm
Wonder if the buffalo drink WD-40?
Cheers,
Chuck
17 Jul
17 Jul
7:13 a.m.
New subject: OT: WD40, was: keyboard cleaning
From: "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at
sydex.com>
On 7/16/2006 at 11:38 PM William Donzelli wrote:
I recall a friend who spent quite a bit of time in the Amazon basin once
mentioned to me that he'd flown on a then-ancient Ford Trimotor where the
pilot dumped a gallon of WD-40 into the tank along with the fuel...I don't
know why, however.
Hi
It may have been as an octane booster. These older engines has
higher compression ratios and todays fuels are a little low on octane.
Most people don't understand octane. Most people think it has more
power. Actually it has less.
Most people think it is better for their car. Actually, if used in most
of todays lower compression engines, it will cause increased carbon
deposits, reduced horsepower and less miliage.
Once an engine has been run on higher octane for some time, that
shouldn't have been, it will not run well on the proper octane because
of carbon buildup.
Anyway, WD-40 doesn't soak up water. Most people use ethenal
for that. My guess is becasue of the higher altitudes, he need to
increase the octane. Anything that would reduce detination would
work. WD-40 doesn't burn to well and might work.
Dwight
The
brazilian WD-40 hasn't this property! :oO
Nor does the US WD-40. You can buy non-pressurized gallons (I think
that big) jugs of the stuff, and it is homogeneous.
20 Jul
20 Jul
3:42 p.m.
I bought one of those tub things from Walmart w/a 28
qt. capacity (a qt. is roughly a lt. for those hooked
on metrics). I put in about eh 1 - 1.5 cups of laundry
detergent, ran hot water from the shower into it, then
plopped in the keyboard (without the casing, but
didn't pull the keytops off. No way, no fing way).
Then I poured about 1/3 of a 1/2 gallon bottle of
ammonia in. Let it sit for a few hours (while I
watched Timeline - wasn't anywhere near as good as I
was lead to believe), rattled the keys some at that
point, then went to bed. The next afternoon I awoke,
rattled the keys some more, then ran the shower over
it. I left it in front of the air conditioner for the
remainder of the day (what was left) and by oh
midnight or so I plugged it in. A few of the keys are
still partially unresponsive, but overall I think the
procedure was a success, and there wasn't any
*apparent* damage to the unit. But some ram chips died
along the way...only ~25k of memory is available to
programs, of a 640k system. Granted it has that SLE
software running, but I can't imagine it eating up
that much memory.
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