26 Jun
2012
26 Jun
'12
1:04 p.m.
ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk (Tony Duell) wrote:
When wa this made. There weren't many 16 pi
nprogrammable parts other
htan bbipolar PROMs (which doesn't sound likely here) in the 'classic
era'. Of course tere are such parts now. (...)
The installation sticker on top of the case mentions it was set up in 1993. If Wikipedia
is to be believed (I know there are mixed opinions about that here, no combustion
demonstrations required...), the first standalone PICs (just as an example what could have
been used in this place) came about soon after General Instrument's microelectronic
division was sold out to Microchip in 1989.
Have you treid looking for a service manual for the
camera on the web?
Some Niko ncamera man aulas are there. THe 'electronic' one I looked at
(F3) didn't include full schematcs, but it did have a wiring diagram and
soem theory of operation. It's a possible source of information.
The additional board was, according to its silkscreen print, made not by Nikon but by
Agfa. It says "AGFA MATRIX DIV 22-23-14180 REV.A" on it. I would not expect to
find information about the modification an a Nikon manual, but one might of course look
there for the signals one would have to tap when refitting a standard body.
There was a motordrive for the Nikon F, but it is very
dififcult to find.
And it requires a diffenrt base casting under the shutter to pring out
various cotnrol levers to the motordrive (to indicate, for example, when
the shutter has copmpleted its open/close operation). That part is ever
harder to find.
WP knowledge says the base has to be replaced (which is a matter of just a few screws),
then the body/motor combination requires a trip to the specialist for some kind of
mechanical adjustment.
jim s <jws at jwsss.com> wrote:
The motorized F body is the F-36. (...) Does look like
the F approach
would be in the 200 dollar range minimum maybe 400 if you really don't
want to hunt for a long time (assuming you have the body).
Oh, that's not the direction I was heading :) I was merely tipping my hat to DrARDs
opto-electro-mechanical skills in suggesting he'd surely find a way to convert his
camera if he wanted to.
On the one hand, I was looking for an AGFA camera module, as they were sold, for the
reason of originality - in case somebody has one sitting on the shelf and gathering dust.
OTOH if I have to manufacture a replacement, I'll be looking for the simplest solution
possible. I don't get why they used a very sophisticated SLR body with exposure
control and shutter times down to 1/2000s anyway in an application where none of that is
of any use (there is no continuously visible image - which renders the viewfinder useless
and would also wreak havoc on automatic exposure control - and image recording times in
minutes require the "bulb" setting only). One would think there must be special
camera bodys which accomplish advancing the film, opening a shutter as long as a signal is
active, and not much else...
[Probably macro or enlarger lens configuration]
Thanks for that hint, too. I will be back when I can measure the object distance to
the mounting interface, but I don't think it is shorter than the image plane distance,
so a close-up lens would be what's asked for rather than an inverted standard or
enlarger one.
Arno
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26 Jun
26 Jun
2:37 p.m.
Have you treid
looking for a service manual for the camera on the web?
Some Niko ncamera man aulas are there. THe 'electronic' one I looked at
(F3) didn't include full schematcs, but it did have a wiring diagram and
soem theory of operation. It's a possible source of information.
The additional board was, according to its silkscreen print, made not
by Nikon but by Agfa. It says "AGFA MATRIX DIV 22-23-14180 REV.A" on it.
I would not expect to find information about the
modification an a Nikon
manual, but one might of course look there for the signals one would
have to tap when refitting a standard body.
That was my idea. If you could work out wha the file recorder interface
was, and ahd the description of the wiring in the camera boby, you migth
be avble to figure out the interfce between them.
There was a motordrive for the Nikon F, but it is
very dififcult to find.
And it requires a diffenrt base casting under the shutter to pring out
various cotnrol levers to the motordrive (to indicate, for example, when
the shutter has copmpleted its open/close operation). That part is ever
harder to find.
WP knowledge says the base has to be replaced (which is a matter of just a few screws), then the body/motor combination
requires a trip to
the specialist for some kind of mechanical adjustment.
EWrr, yes... Or in my case have a go at settign it up myself, Of coruse
this means finding one first...
jim s <jws at jwsss.com> wrote:
Oh, I probably could. Even if it involves an esternal solenoid and a
cable relase :-)
However, If I was going to do this, I'd not use the Nikon F. I'd go and
get some mroe recent electorncially-controleld camera with an electrical
shutter release and built-in notor -- like that F301 that's around here
somewhere, and use that.
The motorized F body is the F-36. (...) Does look
like the F approach
would be in the 200 dollar range minimum maybe 400 if you really don't
want to hunt for a long time (assuming you have the body).
Oh, that's not the direction I was heading :) I was merely tipping my
hat to DrARDs opto-electro-mechanical skills in suggesting he'd surely
find a way to convert his camera if he wanted to.
OTOH if I have to manufacture a replacement, I'll be looking for the
simplest solution possible. I don't get why they used a very
sophisticated SLR body with exposure control and shutter times down to
1/2000s anyway in an application where none of that
is of any use (there is no continuously visible image - which renders
the viewfinder useless and would also wreak havoc on automatic exposure
control - and image recording times in minutes require the "bulb"
setting only). One would think there must be sp
ecial camera bodys which accomplish advancing the film, opening a
shutter as long as a signal is active, and not much else...
Err, yes... I think if I was going to make this, I would start wit ha
dead electronic SLR, though. On the grounds it has interchagealbe lenses,
a motor to wind the film and solenoids to open/close the shutter. Then
remove the dead electroncis and make my own cotnrolelr. Whether I'd leave
the mirror in palce I don;t know, it might be easier to do so if the
sugger mwchanism depends on it for the corraect sequece.
[Probably macro or enlarger lens configuration]
Thanks for that hint, too. I will be back when I can measure the
object distance to the mounting interface, but I don't think it is
shorter than the image plane distance, so a close-up lens would be
what's asked for rather than an inverted standard or e nlarger one.
4567
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4567
days old
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