21 Jun
2004
21 Jun
'04
5:40 a.m.
here is some info for lacing...
http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/87394-9.pdf
it shows some of the stitches, etc at least. It doesn't show a board layout though.
best regards, Steve Thatcher
-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Buckle <geneb(a)deltasoft.com>
Sent: Jun 21, 2004 10:06 AM
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
Subject: RE: Modern Electronics (was Re: List charter mods & headcount... ; -))
Were these true harnesses or were they cable
assemblies. The difference
being that a true harness is completely assembled prior to installation
[usually on a board] where a cabble assembly is the use of lacing (or other
methods) to "dress" simple cables [Simple in the respect that they are
usually point to point [2 connectors] or have few branches]?
Does anyone have pictures of how these kind of frames were built? I'm
going to have to build at least two of them soon for my simulator project.
I plan on lacing the wiring harnesses that run down the side consoles
since it looks so much nicer than dozens of wire-ties.
Did you use spot stitch, running stitches, or locking
stitches? I can still
do a decent spot or running stitch, but struggle with getting a decent [even
spacing, high tension, low torsion] stitch.
Is there a tutorial anywhere that illustrates these various stitches and
where/why they are to be used?
tnx!
g.
21 Jun
21 Jun
6:26 a.m.
here is some info for lacing...
http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/87394-9.pdf
it shows some of the stitches, etc at least. It doesn't show a board
layout though.
Thanks Steve!
g.
7:41 a.m.
New subject: Modern Electronics (was Re: List charter mods & headcount... ; -))
Steve, A good technical post on lacing.. Thanks for coming up with it.
Gene, Unfortunately my fathers log books (which included photos of nearly
every harness (type) he ever built as well as an 8mm movie showing
construction of one over time, were lost/destroyed about 15 years ago
[apparently "climate controlled" on a storage unit does not exclude over 2
feet of water on the floor during spring melt....
The typical method was to design the harness (schematically) and then create
a blue print [I love the smell of ammonia!] at 1-1 size. This print would
then be adfixed to a board (typically plywood). "Nails" would be driven
through the blueprint into the board at all corners, angles, junctions, etc.
Springs were streteched across the places where wires would terminate. The
wirese would then all be placed onto the board according to a wire run list
[my main job helping me father was cutting all the wires, stripping them,
and tinning the ends while I was under 10 years of age]. Once they were all
in place the harness would be laced up using the stitches Steve provided the
links to [the locking stich is a slight modification on the double running
stitch]. If everything was done right, the harness could be lifted off the
board when complete and retain its shape.
One of the items that required a "master" was the ability to build a harness
on a two dimensional board and get the slack in the wire a certain corners
to be such that the final harnes would bend into a three dimensional shape.
Damn, wish I still had tose pictures....
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: cctalk-bounces(a)classiccmp.org
>> [mailto:cctalk-bounces@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Steve Thatcher
>> Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 10:41 AM
>> To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
>> Subject: RE: Modern Electronics (was Re: List charter mods
>> & headcount... ; -))
>>
>> here is some info for lacing...
>>
>> http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/87394-9.pdf
>>
>> it shows some of the stitches, etc at least. It doesn't
>> show a board layout though.
>>
>> best regards, Steve Thatcher
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gene Buckle <geneb(a)deltasoft.com>
>> Sent: Jun 21, 2004 10:06 AM
>> To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
>> <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
>> Subject: RE: Modern Electronics (was Re: List charter mods
>> & headcount... ; -))
>>
>> > Were these true harnesses or were they cable assemblies. The
>> > difference being that a true harness is completely
>> assembled prior to
>> > installation [usually on a board] where a cabble assembly
>> is the use
>> > of lacing (or other
>> > methods) to "dress" simple cables [Simple in the respect
>> that they are
>> > usually point to point [2 connectors] or have few branches]?
>> >
>>
>> Does anyone have pictures of how these kind of frames were
>> built? I'm going to have to build at least two of them
>> soon for my simulator project.
>> I plan on lacing the wiring harnesses that run down the
>> side consoles since it looks so much nicer than dozens of wire-ties.
>>
>> > Did you use spot stitch, running stitches, or locking
>> stitches? I can
>> > still do a decent spot or running stitch, but struggle
>> with getting a
>> > decent [even spacing, high tension, low torsion] stitch.
>> >
>> Is there a tutorial anywhere that illustrates these various
>> stitches and where/why they are to be used?
>>
>> tnx!
>>
>> g.
>>
>>
>>
8:03 a.m.
Gene, Unfortunately my fathers log books (which
included photos of nearly
every harness (type) he ever built as well as an 8mm movie showing
construction of one over time, were lost/destroyed about 15 years ago
[apparently "climate controlled" on a storage unit does not exclude over 2
feet of water on the floor during spring melt....
Damn. I would've loved to have seen that.
The typical method was to design the harness
(schematically) and then create
a blue print [I love the smell of ammonia!] at 1-1 size. This print would
then be adfixed to a board (typically plywood). "Nails" would be driven
through the blueprint into the board at all corners, angles, junctions, etc.
I might be able to do something similar by drawing the wiring layout on
some kraft paper taped to a plywood base. What kind of spring would be
used? I suspect you'd go after one with enough turns to hold all the
wire, but at some point you'd end up with a huge "fan" of wires if the
spring wire diameter were too great.
g.
8:21 a.m.
New subject: Modern Electronics (was Re: List charter mods & headcount... ; -))
The fan out can become an issue. The springs were typically light weight and
were stretched enough to snuggly hold one wire between each coil. Back then
connector densities were not that high, so it was common to see a leg which
split into 2-3-4 tails to handle the physical connectors. When larger
wuantities were involved, it sometimes bacame necessary to make the wires
over-long and then trim (strip and tin) the ends after removing from the
board.
You could use some craft type paper, or do it on the computer and generate
the output to a large format plotter. Not sure where you are based, but here
in the US, most Kinko's can print a large format sheet for a somewhat
reasonable price.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: cctalk-bounces(a)classiccmp.org
>> [mailto:cctalk-bounces@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Gene Buckle
>> Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 1:03 PM
>> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
>> Subject: RE: Modern Electronics (was Re: List charter mods
>> & headcount... ; -))
>>
>> > Gene, Unfortunately my fathers log books (which included
>> photos of
>> > nearly every harness (type) he ever built as well as an 8mm movie
>> > showing construction of one over time, were
>> lost/destroyed about 15
>> > years ago [apparently "climate controlled" on a storage
>> unit does not
>> > exclude over 2 feet of water on the floor during spring melt....
>> >
>> Damn. I would've loved to have seen that.
>>
>> > The typical method was to design the harness
>> (schematically) and then
>> > create a blue print [I love the smell of ammonia!] at 1-1
>> size. This
>> > print would then be adfixed to a board (typically
>> plywood). "Nails"
>> > would be driven through the blueprint into the board at
>> all corners, angles, junctions, etc.
>>
>> I might be able to do something similar by drawing the
>> wiring layout on some kraft paper taped to a plywood base.
>> What kind of spring would be used? I suspect you'd go
>> after one with enough turns to hold all the wire, but at
>> some point you'd end up with a huge "fan" of wires if the
>> spring wire diameter were too great.
>>
>> g.
>>
>>
>>
8:35 a.m.
The fan out can become an issue. The springs were
typically light weight and
were stretched enough to snuggly hold one wire between each coil. Back then
connector densities were not that high, so it was common to see a leg which
split into 2-3-4 tails to handle the physical connectors. When larger
wuantities were involved, it sometimes bacame necessary to make the wires
over-long and then trim (strip and tin) the ends after removing from the
board.
I have at least one connector with 55 pins, so the fan would become quite
a problem, even with 22ga wire.
You could use some craft type paper, or do it on the
computer and generate
the output to a large format plotter. Not sure where you are based, but here
in the US, most Kinko's can print a large format sheet for a somewhat
reasonable price.
Kraft paper would be easier and cheaper since I've already got a huge roll
of it.
g.
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