On Mon, 3 Jun 2002, Chad Fernandez wrote: The problem is the little blue plastic "extension". I haven't ever gotten that off in a way that it would securely reattach. If you're willing to try that, you can remove the tumbler barrel itself from the threaded sleeve and remove the pins by way of a little brass tongue in a keyway. You could rekey it or leave the pins out. The spring action in turning the lock will still be there. Very careful application of Krazy Glue has worked for me, getting the plastic back on. Another, third option is to simply leave the lock as is, get the "Service" mode pinout from the 530, and just disconnect the lock & short the appropriate pins when you need to install. My boss does that with his 370. Doc

On Mon, 3 Jun 2002, Chad Fernandez wrote: 1. Does the key that you want to rekey it to fit the keyway? Changing a lock to use a different keyway requires some sophisticated milling. 2. Does the lock use pin tumblers or wafers? Wafer locks can usually be disassembled/reassembled without special tools. For pin tumbler locks, you'll probably want a plug follower of the right diameter (hint: look at drill bit shanks as an easy source of various diameters) If you can remove the lock completely, then you have the option of handing the entire task oer to a locksmith, who has experience doing it. It usually isn't very expensive. The hard part with most "cam locks" is getting the cam off and back on, since they are often designed without an intent of later servicing.

On Mon, 3 Jun 2002, Chad Fernandez wrote: Definitely pins. I've, um, "generalized" enough of these to know. http://www-1.ibm.com/servers/eserver/pseries/library/hardware_docs /sa38/380545.pdf Mind the line wrap. Page 3-48 describes removing the lock. Wonderful general hardware ref for your 7012. Doc

--- Tony Duell <ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk> wrote: Well... my brother _is_ a locksmith, and he has a fun toy - a circular pin-tumbler lock *pick* - it is essentially a follower that is the same proportions as a real key, 4" (10cm) long with a large knob for a handle - it looks like an odd axial nut driver. The way it works is that where the pins are (you need a pick to match your lock since they make them with a variety of quantities of pins), there is a groove machined along the body of the pick that is a few mm long. Inside each grove is a strip of metal like a feeler gauge that can slide up and down the groove. There is also a tension ring a cm or so up the body that keeps the feelers from falling out. You tap all the feelers so they are flush with the front of the pick, then lightly press the pick into the lock while giving a slight rotation - the turned lock binds the lock pins which push back on the feelers. A few twist-push-pull-untwist motions and the feelers back out to the proper depth for the pins and the lock turns. It takes about 3-5 seconds for an experienced hand to "pick" the lock. One benefit compared with picking a "normal" lock is that when you are done with this you, can take the adjusted lockpick and put it on a tubular key cutting machine and *make* a working key. Since one of the prerequisites for a true lock-*smith* is being able to make your own tools, he has made his own tubular lock pick cleaner and neater, but his home-made one works just as well. He opened up the coin door on my Gorf cabinet with his so we could replace the pins to match my DEC keys (XX2247). Now, I'll never be locked out again! -ethan __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com

When using drill bit shanks as plug followers, you sometimes need to use a piece of shim stock to keep the pins from falling in the gap between the plug and follower. On Tue, 4 Jun 2002, Tony Duell wrote: Some people just don't appreciate fun. (or have too low a frustration tolerance level to handle locksmithing (or assembly language programming)) The commercial tubular lock picks have enough friction that once a pin is set, the pick stays in position and that pin does NOT relock when you get to the next position. And the tool can even be used as if it were an original key in duplicating a new key. That ability to work with all pins at once is one of the big differences in working with tubular locks. You could make such a tool with a piece of tubing, or a key that has the correct pin positions (kinda like picking the correct DIN connector). Mill slots and put in sliders. Give the slider enough resistance that it will push pins, but won't force a set pin out of position. Note that a lot of cheap clones have what looks like a lock, but will open with damn near anything that will fit in the keyhole.