28 Jul
2001
28 Jul
'01
7:26 p.m.
I have a 30 metre length of thicknet (10base5) with screw on fittings at
each end and a vampire tap in the middle. As the cable gets dragged
around from LUG fest to LUG fest, I expect the vampire tap to eventually
fail and damage the cable.
So, I am looking for someone (preferrably) in Sydney, Australia) who is
able to break the cable in half and fit new screw fittings.
--
Terry Collins {:-)}}} Ph(02) 4627 2186 Fax(02) 4628 7861
email: terryc(a)woa.com.au www: http://www.woa.com.au
WOA Computer Services <lan/wan, linux/unix, novell>
"People without trees are like fish without clean water"
29 Jul
29 Jul
6 a.m.
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5:04 p.m.
--- Tony Duell <ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk> wrote:
At one time I'd have suggested asking a local
radio amateur to fit them.
But it appears that many radio amateurs these days don't own soldering
irons or have a clue as to what goes on inside the transceiver.
Ack! That'd be like a Ham who didn't know Morse Code... wait. Nevermind.
-ethan
N8TVD (tech w/code)
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30 Jul
30 Jul
6:24 a.m.
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5:32 a.m.
On 29 Jul, Tony Duell wrote:
What you want are a couple of N plugs. Getting them
shouldn't be hard
(they are still used for RF work), but IIRC there are several types to
suit different diameters of cable.
The equivalent type code of "10BaseT
cabele" is RG213. This may be
usefull, when you are looking for the right connector.
Also: There are N to BNC converter plugs. I successfully used one
to connect a 10Base5 and a 10Base2 segment.
The solder type are the easiest to fit as a 1-off,
since you need no
special tools.
... but a bit experience in mounting these connectors.
At one time I'd have suggested asking a local
radio amateur to fit them.
But it appears that many radio amateurs these days don't own soldering
irons or have a clue as to what goes on inside the transceiver.
In Germany these
radio amateurs are abjectly called "power outlet
amateurs", because they only can by equipment and plug it into the power
outlet. I am no radio amateur, but I can understand this, as it is
normal for me to do routine hardware maintenance with a soldering
iron. (Or a mini drilling machine to replace dead cast-in batteies of
NVRAM/clock chips.) Every time I do this for friends, that don't know
how to handle "hardware tools", I get amazed glances. :-)
--
tsch??,
Jochen
Homepage: http://www.unixag-kl.fh-kl.de/~jkunz/
7:05 a.m.
New subject: NVRAM battery replacement (was Re: Thick Net Cable Terminator in Sydney Australia)
--- jkunz(a)unixag-kl.fh-kl.de wrote:
(Or a mini drilling machine to replace dead cast-in
batteies of
NVRAM/clock chips.)
I have a small box of dead NVRAM chips (48T02 from various sun4c machines). I
was thinking about recycling one for a clock project (PIC or 8051 or mc68k
based, depending on which way I jump). Are there any components other than
the battery in the potted lid? i.e., can I just remove it entirely or
do I have to perform delicate surgery to seperate the front leads and solder
wires onto the front of the I.C. where the lid used to connect?
Every time I do this for friends, that don't know
how to handle "hardware tools", I get amazed glances. :-)
I got "the hairy eyeball" for showing off stuff like this at work. I
soldered a 3V solder-tab lithium cell to a 9V battery snap and a 9V
battery cable to one of the aforementioned 48T02 NVRAMs. Got lots
of strange looks from the boss, but it was my spare from home when I
needed one right away and didn't want to wait for the replacements
from Mouser to show up.
-ethan
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8:51 a.m.
New subject: NVRAM battery replacement (was Re: Thick Net Cable Terminator i n Sydney Australia)
On 30 Jul, Ethan Dicks wrote:
I have a small box of dead NVRAM chips (48T02 from
various sun4c machines).
A SPARCstation 1+ was my entrance to this kind of surgery.
:-)
Are there any components other than the battery in the
potted lid?
Yes. At the side of the pins 1 / 24 is the quartz. The battery is at
the
side of the pins 12 / 13.
i.e., can I just remove it entirely or
NO! (Or
you have to reattach the quartz.)
do I have to perform delicate surgery to seperate the
front leads and solder
wires onto the front of the I.C. where the lid used to connect?
This is more ore
less the case. You have to mill into the resine from
the top down to the top of the battery. You need to remove about 5 to
8mm from the pin 12/13 edge towards the pin 1/24 edge. Prepare the top
of the battery so that you can see the wire that goes down to the chip.
This is +. Carefully mill down that wire up to the gap between the led
and the chip. Free the wire from the resine left and right of it. Cut
the wire at the top from the battery. Solder a wire to it and to the +
connector of a 3V battery. Connect - of the battery to pin 12 (GND) of
the chip. You can connect - of the new battery to the - wire of the old
battery. But that wire is very short and therefore difficult to prepare.
As it is directly connected to pin 12, it is better to use that to
connect - of the new battery.
You can also use rasp to take the top of the led away up to the top of
the battery. Then you can use a sharp cutter knife to prepare the +
wire. But you need to be more careful when using this method than with
a mini drilling machine and you need some more detaild knowledge of the
anatomy of the chips.
--
tsch??,
Jochen
Homepage: http://www.unixag-kl.fh-kl.de/~jkunz/
8551
days inactive
8552
days old
6 comments
4 participants
participants (4)
-
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
ethan_dicks＠yahoo.com -
jkunz＠unixag-kl.fh-kl.de -
terryc＠woa.com.au