At 08:11 PM 3/5/98 +0000, you wrote:
The battery
pack is just two NiCad AA's welded to a set of contacts. It's
very easy to fix this on your own - if you don't have a spot-welder
in your household, solder will do after you roughen up the battery contact
surfaces. (In the past decade I've gone through
a HP15C and a HP41, but it's the HP25 that I still prefer...)
All my HP20-series machines (woodstocks) have a metal spring in the
battery pack that presses the cells against the terminals in the
calculator. It will also connect a pair of normal AA cells together
without needing to spot-weld or solder them.
I just rebuilt two of them yesterday. Here's a few comments.
They're a lot more reliable if you put a strap across them. The
spring/battery joint gets just enough corrision to make it intermitant.
Particurly troublesome on the C models.
You can open up the battery pack, extract the old cells and fit some new
AA NiCds in their place. Take care to get them the right way round, of
course - at least one of my packs has the polarities moulded into the
case, though.
They all do. The markings are on the inside though.
Don't use normal AA primary cells. These machines are designed to run at
2.5V, and a 3V battery pack can cause damage. Yes, that is the voice of
experience.
Yeap, that's CMOS for you. Besides non-rechargeable batteries won't last
anytime at all in calcs with LED display.
Joe