21 Nov
2014
21 Nov
'14
1:53 a.m.
I've gone off the Deep End and now I just have to re-have a Teletype model
33.. I feel awful about what became of the junker I bought for $15 when I
was a 13 year-old and wish I still had it today, so I could fix it and put
it to use.
So what should a mentally-challenged guy like myself be looking for, in a
Model 33 - preferably an ASR model with the paper tape reader?
What does and doesn't go bad? Are there any serious game-changing,
show-stopping or buzz-killing issues that effectively render one of these
units as a parts donor? What differences exist between the various
ASR-model units, as they progress through the years? What does one look for
- and more importantly, what to avoid?
And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA current-loop model from a
'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or do you need
to go under the hood?
21 Nov
21 Nov
1:59 a.m.
Where are you located? I have an extra 33 in Illinois.
Paul
On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 12:53 AM, drlegendre . <drlegendre at gmail.com> wrote:
I've gone off the Deep End and now I just have to
re-have a Teletype model
33.. I feel awful about what became of the junker I bought for $15 when I
was a 13 year-old and wish I still had it today, so I could fix it and put
it to use.
So what should a mentally-challenged guy like myself be looking for, in a
Model 33 - preferably an ASR model with the paper tape reader?
What does and doesn't go bad? Are there any serious game-changing,
show-stopping or buzz-killing issues that effectively render one of these
units as a parts donor? What differences exist between the various
ASR-model units, as they progress through the years? What does one look for
- and more importantly, what to avoid?
And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA current-loop model from a
'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or do you need
to go under the hood?
2:15 a.m.
Reply sent off-list.
On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 12:59 AM, Paul Anderson <useddec at gmail.com> wrote:
Where are you located? I have an extra 33 in
Illinois.
Paul
On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 12:53 AM, drlegendre . <drlegendre at gmail.com>
wrote:
I've gone off the Deep End and now I just
have to re-have a Teletype
model
33.. I feel awful about what became of the junker
I bought for $15 when I
was a 13 year-old and wish I still had it today, so I could fix it and
put
it to use.
So what should a mentally-challenged guy like myself be looking for, in a
Model 33 - preferably an ASR model with the paper tape reader?
What does and doesn't go bad? Are there any serious game-changing,
show-stopping or buzz-killing issues that effectively render one of these
units as a parts donor? What differences exist between the various
ASR-model units, as they progress through the years? What does one look
for
- and more importantly, what to avoid?
And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA current-loop model from a
'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or do you need
to go under the hood?
2:24 a.m.
On 2014-Nov-20, at 10:53 PM, drlegendre . wrote:
I've gone off the Deep End and now I just have to
re-have a Teletype model
33..
...
And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA
current-loop model from a
'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or do you need
to go under the hood?
Model 33's are native/standard 20mA current-loop.
I've never seen a manufacturer-original built-in RS-232 adapter for them, at least not
inside the 33 proper (the keyboard-printer unit).
The stand / base however, was optionally used to house a rather large modem, I suppose
there could have been other adapters made to go in there.
2:07 p.m.
I've never seen a manufacturer-original built-in
RS-232 adapter for them, at least not inside the 33 proper (the
keyboard-printer unit).
Not strictly Teletype, but there was a company called Data Dynamics who sold the Model 390
(IIRC). This
was Teleype ASR33 mechanicals (keyboard, printer/punch, reader) with totally different
electronics in a
rather nice metal casing the enclosed the paper and tape rolls, and which even had a
couple of little bulbs
to illuninate the printing. At least one verson of that did have both RS232 and current
loop interfaces.
-tony
5:02 p.m.
On 11/20/14 11:24 PM, Brent Hilpert wrote:
On 2014-Nov-20, at 10:53 PM, drlegendre . wrote:
I have a KSR-33 that is native RS-232. ;-) I was *really* surprised
that it was RS-232 vs 20ma current-loop.
TTFN - Guy
I've gone off the Deep End and now I just
have to re-have a Teletype model
33..
...
And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA
current-loop model from a
'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or do you need
to go under the hood?
Model 33's are native/standard 20mA current-loop.
I've never seen a manufacturer-original built-in RS-232 adapter for them, at least
not inside the 33 proper (the keyboard-printer unit). 
2:41 a.m.
I suggest you subscribe to the Greenkeys list. I don't know too much but a couple of
things to know are:
1. The rubber hammer perishes. Do *not* operate the machine without replacing it or you
will cause irreversible damage to the typewheel. There are two ways to do this. One is to
use some PVC tubing, the other is to ask on the Greenkeys list as someone has now
manufactured some completely new rubber hammers.
2. Make sure you grease and lubricate it before turning it on. Turn it over by hand first.
The manuals are available to tell you where to lubricate etc. I can supply copies if
necessary.
3. You will almost certainly need a current loop converter. I was lucky to find one on
eBay which works like a charm, I think there are others. The alternative is to make your
own. There are some designs knocking around that don't seem too complicated.
There are probably lots of other things, checking for excessive wear for example.
I love my Model 33, hearing that sound again is wonderful, it is definitely something
worth getting and looking after!
Regards
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of drlegendre .
Sent: 21 November 2014 06:53
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: What to look for in a Model 33 Teletype - a newb's buyer's guide?
I've gone off the Deep End and now I just have to re-have a Teletype model 33..
I feel awful about what became of the junker I bought for $15 when I was a 13
year-old and wish I still had it today, so I could fix it and put it to use.
So what should a mentally-challenged guy like myself be looking for, in a Model
33 - preferably an ASR model with the paper tape reader?
What does and doesn't go bad? Are there any serious game-changing, show-
stopping or buzz-killing issues that effectively render one of these units as a
parts donor? What differences exist between the various ASR-model units, as
they progress through the years? What does one look for
- and more importantly, what to avoid?
And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA current-loop model from a
'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or do you need to
go under the hood?
3:05 a.m.
@Robert
If you - or anyone - have links to digital copies of the Mdl. 33 service /
operator's manuals, please send those my way - would be very much
appreciated!
I presume the rubber hammer isn't so much a /rubber hammer/ as a steel
hammer with a bonded rubber face? Sort of like a pinch roller or drive
wheel from a tape machine or turntable, and so on. Lacking the rubber
facing, I could see how that would damage the 'typewheel' as you say, in
short order.
Per your suggestion, the greenkeys list will be one of my next stops. Thank
you for the help!! ;-)
On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 1:41 AM, Robert Jarratt <robert.jarratt at ntlworld.com
wrote:
I suggest you subscribe to the Greenkeys list. I
don't know too much but a
couple of things to know are:
1. The rubber hammer perishes. Do *not* operate the machine without
replacing it or you will cause irreversible damage to the typewheel. There
are two ways to do this. One is to use some PVC tubing, the other is to ask
on the Greenkeys list as someone has now manufactured some completely new
rubber hammers.
2. Make sure you grease and lubricate it before turning it on. Turn it
over by hand first. The manuals are available to tell you where to
lubricate etc. I can supply copies if necessary.
3. You will almost certainly need a current loop converter. I was lucky to
find one on eBay which works like a charm, I think there are others. The
alternative is to make your own. There are some designs knocking around
that don't seem too complicated.
There are probably lots of other things, checking for excessive wear for
example.
I love my Model 33, hearing that sound again is wonderful, it is
definitely something worth getting and looking after!
Regards
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
drlegendre .
Sent: 21 November 2014 06:53
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: What to look for in a Model 33 Teletype - a newb's buyer's
guide?
I've gone off the Deep End and now I just have to re-have a Teletype
model
33..
I feel awful about what became of the junker I
bought for $15 when I was
a 13
year-old and wish I still had it today, so I
could fix it and put it to
use.
So what should a mentally-challenged guy like myself be looking for, in
a Model
33 - preferably an ASR model with the paper tape
reader?
What does and doesn't go bad? Are there any serious game-changing, show-
stopping or buzz-killing issues that effectively render one of these
units as a
parts donor? What differences exist between the
various ASR-model units,
as
they progress through the years? What does one
look for
- and more importantly, what to avoid?
And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA current-loop model from a
'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or do you
need
to
go under the hood?
3:34 a.m.
Yes, the hammer is actually a piece of metal, with a rubber "cup" over it, that
often gets called the hammer. You can remove the rubber part and put some rigid-ish vinyl
tubing over it, but as I have the newly made ones I have not done this.
I will send you the manuals separately.
Regards
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of drlegendre .
Sent: 21 November 2014 08:05
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: What to look for in a Model 33 Teletype - a newb's buyer's guide?
@Robert
If you - or anyone - have links to digital copies of the Mdl. 33 service /
operator's manuals, please send those my way - would be very much
appreciated!
I presume the rubber hammer isn't so much a /rubber hammer/ as a steel
hammer with a bonded rubber face? Sort of like a pinch roller or drive wheel
from a tape machine or turntable, and so on. Lacking the rubber facing, I could
see how that would damage the 'typewheel' as you say, in short order.
Per your suggestion, the greenkeys list will be one of my next stops. Thank you
for the help!! ;-)
On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 1:41 AM, Robert Jarratt <robert.jarratt at ntlworld.com
wrote:
> I suggest you subscribe to the Greenkeys list. I don't know too much
> but a couple of things to know are:
>
> 1. The rubber hammer perishes. Do *not* operate the machine without
> replacing it or you will cause irreversible damage to the typewheel.
> There are two ways to do this. One is to use some PVC tubing, the
> other is to ask on the Greenkeys list as someone has now manufactured
> some completely new rubber hammers.
> 2. Make sure you grease and lubricate it before turning it on. Turn it
> over by hand first. The manuals are available to tell you where to
> lubricate etc. I can supply copies if necessary.
> 3. You will almost certainly need a current loop converter. I was
> lucky to find one on eBay which works like a charm, I think there are
> others. The alternative is to make your own. There are some designs
> knocking around that don't seem too complicated.
>
> There are probably lots of other things, checking for excessive wear
> for example.
>
> I love my Model 33, hearing that sound again is wonderful, it is
> definitely something worth getting and looking after!
>
> Regards
>
> Rob
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
> drlegendre .
> > Sent: 21 November 2014 06:53
> > To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
> > Subject: What to look for in a Model 33 Teletype - a newb's buyer's
> guide?
> >
> > I've gone off the Deep End and now I just have to re-have a Teletype
> model 33..
> > I feel awful about what became of the junker I bought for $15 when I
> > was
> a 13
> > year-old and wish I still had it today, so I could fix it and put it
> > to
> use.
> >
> > So what should a mentally-challenged guy like myself be looking for,
> > in
> a Model
> > 33 - preferably an ASR model with the paper tape reader?
> >
> > What does and doesn't go bad? Are there any serious game-changing,
> > show- stopping or buzz-killing issues that effectively render one of
> > these
> units as a
> > parts donor? What differences exist between the various ASR-model
> > units,
> as
> > they progress through the years? What does one look for
> > - and more importantly, what to avoid?
> >
> > And one more - how do you differentiate a 20mA current-loop model
> > from a 'standard' RS-232 model? Can you tell from the rear panel, or
> > do you
> need to
> > go under the hood?
>
>
4:18 a.m.
Robert,
On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 2:34 AM, Robert Jarratt <robert.jarratt at ntlworld.com
wrote:
Yes, the hammer is actually a piece of metal, with a
rubber "cup" over it,
that often gets called the hammer. You can remove the rubber part and put
some rigid-ish vinyl tubing over it, but as I have the newly made ones I
have not done this.
I will send you the manuals separately.
Thanks much, I'll keep a look-out for them!
2:13 p.m.
If you - or anyone - have links to digital copies of
the Mdl. 33 service /
operator's manuals, please send those my way - would be very much
appreciated!
Take a look on the Australian HP museum web site (http://www.hpmuseum.net/)
under the HP2752A terminal. I am pretty sure the available documentation there
includes all 3 volumes of the Model 33 manual.
I presume the rubber hammer isn't so much a
/rubber hammer/ as a steel
hammer with a bonded rubber face? Sort of like a pinch roller or drive
It's a steel bracket with a rubber 'head' fitted over a stud, The head is
actually
a separate part, it wasn't bonded on. At one time I had some new spares, but
alas they have decayed by now.
If the head is decayed/missing, then the steel stud hits the type cylinder, with
obvious unpleasant results.
-tony
3557
days inactive
3557
days old
10 comments
6 participants
participants (6)
-
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
drlegendre＠gmail.com -
ggs＠shiresoft.com -
hilpert＠cs.ubc.ca -
robert.jarratt＠ntlworld.com -
useddec＠gmail.com