Would an EDAC 306-010-500-102 work? They are in stock at Mouser and Digi-Key in the US for around $6, but that might not help you. I have a similar open frame monitor that might have the same 10 position card edge connector. I've never gotten around to trying to hook it up.

Normally will, You can either ignore the other row of terminals, or solder the wires to the corresponding pins on both sides. Have you treid Digikey? 0.156" edge conectors are not common in the UK, but they are common in thr States. I've needed such connectors (and indeed 0.125" pitch ones) to repair old HP desktop machines and Digikey have always had something that will do (if not the exact part). They will ship to England, the only downside is the shipping chages. You mihht find one somthing with this few contacts that a 0.15" pitch connector will work. They're more common in the UK, but only on older stuff. I don't think anyone still sells them. There is a klduge if you don't mind modifying the monitor. 0.156" headr plugs and sockets are not hard to find. You cna solder a header to the monitor PCB (either 'SMD' on the edge, solderign the pins of the header ot the edge figners, or drill holes through the fingers and fit the header conventionally). Personally, I'd get the right connectr. Many, many 'cahssis monitors' use this pinout. It's a defacto standard IMHO. IIRC the TRS-80 M3 and M4 monitor PCBs have the same pinout. I doube very much it's colour :-). But I agree, it's likely to be TV rates (you'll be able to get it to work with either British or American frequencies by twiddling the presets, I susepct). I suspect for somethggn that old they'll have been a proper service sheet -- I have an old British terminal (old meaning that the video is held in shift registers, and the keyboard is upper-case only, with mods in the mnaul to enable lower case) which has a compoiste Motorola open-frame monitor in it. The manual for the terminal includes the Motorola service manual for the monitor. Be careful. It's not unheard-of for such monitors to have no horizontal oscilaltor, so if you're not feeding them an Hsync (realy Hdrive) signal, the horizotnal output stage is not doing anyting. You may find the supply current increeases when you actually gett it working. If you know you had EHT, then the horizontal output was working, of course. A couple of points on that. Firstly, if the EHT is present and you have nothign on the scrreen (no bream current), the CRT is quite likely to remain charged when you remove power. Be careful if you disconnect the anode cap. Seondly, a neon bulb (NE2 or similar), or a mains tester screwdriver will often glow if you hold it near an operatin flyback transformer (don't cnnect it to anything). -tony