I still didn't have the guts to try and
disassemble the typing unit
or the keyboard, but with access to their undersides, I was able to
Puty, becaue it really isn't that hard. If i could do it without the
manuals and without this list while still at school, then you can do it
now :-)
problems remained, no line feed and no bell. I took
the typing unit
back out and looked carefully at the area of the line feed mechanism.
It was substantially different from the illustrations in the documents.
Do you have the partsbook? I find it to be one of the most useful manuals
for the Model 33 becuase of all the exploded diagrams. Anyway, the
partsbook I have shows 2 different versions of the friction-feed platten
mechanism. The older one has ratchet teeth at both ends of the platten,
the later one only at the left side.
[..]
The punch seemed like it would be almost trivial. It
was, _almost_. The
punch essentially just bolts onto the side of the typing unit. There are
eight small levers that control which holes are punched and there is a
large lever that provides the "power". The small levers simply drop into
place, connecting with push rods in the typing unit. The large lever
connects to a rotating shaft in the typing unit. Here's where the trick is.
The lever connects to the shaft via a sleeve. The shaft has holes all the
way through it, the sleeve has holes on both sides and screws go all the
way through the sleeve and the shaft. There is almost no play in the
connection... almost. I took out the KSR typing unit and transferred the
punch mechanism to it.
I put the KSR typing unit back in, threaded in some tape and tried it.
Shredded
tape. What??? Everything sure looked OK. The "bit" levers looked like
they were all moving correctly, the large lever seemed to be going through
its motions. I spent a long time watching it. Finally, I tried putting it
back on the ASR typing unit. Shredded tape. WHAT!!! What could possibly
have changed? Maybe I attached the sleeve for the large lever to the wrong
holes? No, those are the only holes in the shaft. That's when I noticed
that little bit of play. Just three or four degrees. That couldn't
possibly make any difference, could it? I held the play all the way
clockwise
and tightened the sleeve screws. Shredded tape. I loosened up the sleeve,
held the play all the way counter-clockwise and retightened. Perfect! I
moved the punch back to the KSR typing unit and, with my new knowledge, got
it attached and working.
That link is actually in 2 parts -- the sleeve that clamps to the shaft
and the crank plate that carries the link to the punch. They re held
together by a screw. Loosening that gives you quite a bit of adjustment
(10's of degrees)(, and that's waht you should be using.
After the punch experience, I spent a very long taking exact measurements of
the reader control mechanism that needed to be moved to the KSR typing unit.
It is a complicated little assembly, consisting of a cam controlled lever
that moves based on whether a solenoid is energized and in turn opens and
closes a switch as the cam rotates. It looked like the location tolerances
of the whole thing would be about a sixteenth of an inch. There is a spring
that attaches to the lever and keeps it pressed tight against the cam. I
transferred the mechanism. Attaching the spring turned out to be the
hardest
part of the whole job. The lever end of the spring is "permanently"
It's a lot easier if you remove the transmitter shaft first. Take the
distributoir unit apart, then unto the clamps over the bearings and
essentailly the shaft justlifts out.
attached,
but the other end has to thread through a tight space and hook over a small
pin that is part of the typing unit frame. I fooled with it for more than
an
hour. What finally worked was to tie some plastic fishing line to the end
of
the spring, guide the line to the pin and use the line to stretch the spring
over to the pin. I used a piece of "coat hanger" wire to coax the loop at
the
end of the spring over the pin and then finally reached in with a long thin
scalpel to cut the line and pull it out.
Many years ago I bought a set of speing hooks spedifically for doing
things like this. They weren't cheap, but they've saved a lot of bad
lanugage over the years :-)
"There's the easy part done," I said to myself. I figured I would spend
the
rest of the day getting the lever, solenoid and switch lined up correctly.
I put the KSR... well, now it was really the ASR, typing unit back in and
fired it up. The bit gods, or maybe Rube Goldberg himself, smiled upon me.
It worked the first time.
Actually, I've never hand any problems getting that part to work first
time...
-tony