12 Aug
2014
12 Aug
'14
5 a.m.
The small Sun boxes in the picasa web pic are as follows:
Sparc Station 2, qty 1
Sparc Station 5, qty 3
Sparc Station 10, qty 1
All have floppy drives, except one of the SS5s.
All worked several years ago, but they get no video now. My Sun dealers
tell me it is because the video battery went out, and needs to be replaced.
Cindy Croxton
Electronics Plus
1613 Water Street
Kerrville, TX 78028
830-792-3400 phone
830-792-3404 fax
sales at elecplus.com
AOL IM elcpls
12 Aug
12 Aug
4:55 p.m.
On 12/08/14 8:00 AM, Electronics Plus wrote:
The small Sun boxes in the picasa web pic are as
follows:
Sparc Station 2, qty 1
Sparc Station 5, qty 3
Sparc Station 10, qty 1
All have floppy drives, except one of the SS5s.
All worked several years ago, but they get no video now. My Sun dealers
tell me it is because the video battery went out, and needs to be replaced.
Most likely the *clock* battery is dead, but that wouldn't prevent video
in any way. You would see the firmware monitor screen.
"Video battery"? Not aware of such a thing.
--Toby
Cindy Croxton
Electronics Plus
1613 Water Street
Kerrville, TX 78028
830-792-3400 phone
830-792-3404 fax
sales at elecplus.com
AOL IM elcpls
5:51 p.m.
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014, Toby Thain wrote:
On 12/08/14 8:00 AM, Electronics Plus wrote:
Clock battery is a fairly straightforward and enjoyable repair. When I've
done it, I first identify the end of the module containing the battery.
Then with a dremel, make a slice equatorially to sever the electrical
connection. Then slice open the battery compartment at its midpoint.
The battery should easily pull out at this point. Connect a CR2032 cell
holder and epoxy into place.
One of the pics at http://gigawa.lt/gigawa.lt/Sun_NVRAM.html shows the
inside of my Sun IPX, upon which I performed this fix.
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
The small Sun boxes in the picasa web pic are as
follows:
Sparc Station 2, qty 1
Sparc Station 5, qty 3
Sparc Station 10, qty 1
All have floppy drives, except one of the SS5s.
All worked several years ago, but they get no video now. My Sun dealers
tell me it is because the video battery went out, and needs to be replaced.
Most likely the *clock* battery is dead, but that wouldn't prevent video in
any way. You would see the firmware monitor screen.
"Video battery"? Not aware of such a thing.
6:58 p.m.
New subject: Fixing dead NVRAM - Re: Sun pizza boxes
On 12/08/14 8:51 PM, David Griffith wrote:
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014, Toby Thain wrote:
Nice. I own so many pizza boxes, I should get good at this one day.
Thanks for the inspiration!
--Toby
On 12/08/14 8:00 AM, Electronics Plus wrote:
Clock battery is a fairly straightforward and enjoyable repair. When
I've done it, I first identify the end of the module containing the
battery. Then with a dremel, make a slice equatorially to sever the
electrical connection. Then slice open the battery compartment at its
midpoint. The battery should easily pull out at this point. Connect a
CR2032 cell holder and epoxy into place. The small Sun boxes in the picasa web pic are as
follows:
Sparc Station 2, qty 1
Sparc Station 5, qty 3
Sparc Station 10, qty 1
All have floppy drives, except one of the SS5s.
All worked several years ago, but they get no video now. My Sun dealers
tell me it is because the video battery went out, and needs to be
replaced.
Most likely the *clock* battery is dead, but that wouldn't prevent
video in any way. You would see the firmware monitor screen.
"Video battery"? Not aware of such a thing.
One of the pics at http://gigawa.lt/gigawa.lt/Sun_NVRAM.html shows the
inside of my Sun IPX, upon which I performed this fix.
14 Aug
14 Aug
12:33 a.m.
Am 13.08.14 02:51, schrieb David Griffith:
I first identify the end of the module containing the
battery. Then with
a dremel, make a slice equatorially to sever the electrical connection.
Then slice open the battery compartment at its midpoint. The battery
should easily pull out at this point. Connect a CR2032 cell holder and
epoxy into place.
I do it this way: Dig into the resin from the top until you get
to the
battery. This is the + pole of the battery. Carefully prepare the lead
that goes from the top in a 90 degree angle down to the chip. Cut the
lead at the battery. Solder a wire to it and a CR2032 holder to the
other end. Connect the - pole of the CR2032 holder to pin 12, thats GND.
This way you is less invasive and mechanicaly more stable.
--
tsch??,
Jochen
1:56 a.m.
On Thu, 14 Aug 2014, Jochen Kunz wrote:
Am 13.08.14 02:51, schrieb David Griffith:
I don't know if the concern is warranted or not, but I don't want to leave
the old cell in there for fear of leakage or other troubles. The reason I
use epoxy is that I can build back up the area that is cut away. I have
very little use for cyanoacrylate glues. I find it too thin and brittle.
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
I first identify the end of the module containing
the battery. Then with
a dremel, make a slice equatorially to sever the electrical connection.
Then slice open the battery compartment at its midpoint. The battery
should easily pull out at this point. Connect a CR2032 cell holder and
epoxy into place.
I do it this way: Dig into the resin from the top until you get
to the
battery. This is the + pole of the battery. Carefully prepare the lead
that goes from the top in a 90 degree angle down to the chip. Cut the
lead at the battery. Solder a wire to it and a CR2032 holder to the
other end. Connect the - pole of the CR2032 holder to pin 12, thats GND.
This way you is less invasive and mechanicaly more stable.
3550
days inactive
3552
days old
5 comments
4 participants
participants (4)
-
dgriffi＠cs.csubak.edu -
jkunz＠unixag-kl.fh-kl.de -
sales＠elecplus.com -
toby＠telegraphics.com.au