Not sure what makes it an international model, although it does say 50-60Hz, and it does not have a captive power cord, so presumably it is an international one. I will have to take a look inside, but I really don't have any idea what I would need to do to convert it. Regards Rob

Nothing specific to the VT3xx Normally SMPSUs that can be converted to run off 115V or 230V mains run the chopper off about 350V DC. The mains input rectifier circuit is configured to be a simple bridge rectifier for 230V and a voltage doubler for 115V. The conversion is nothing more than a link from the neutral side of the mains to the centre tap of a pair of smoothing capacitors in series (if you look at the circuit, you end up with 2 diodes that are redundant, always reverse-biased, in the voltage doubler circuit, but that is no problem). So look for a link on the PSU board in this area. If you are lucky it will either have 2 positions labelled '115V' and '230V' (in the latter position it actually does nothing) or will be marked 'fit for 115V' or something. -tony

I opened up the VT320 tonight. The PSU is set for 240V, which is good. However, I noticed some corrosion around the flyback transformer. I have posted a picture here: http://1drv.ms/1zqDhx5 This looks like corrosion of some kind of retaining clip perhaps, rather than anything functional. Am I right, or should I be concerned? Thanks Rob

On Thursday (12/04/2014 at 02:34PM -0800), Ian McLaughlin wrote: I have actually seen a lot of this, particularly on VT220 I have restored. By the looks of yours, I'd say the clip is toast. It does hold the core together so if it comes apart and there's later vibration of significance, the core might come apart and then you don't have a flyback anymore. I would try to clean up the particles that remain as they are conductive and if they migrate into other parts of the circuit or if the remains of the clip come off and end up somewhere else in the circuit, you'll have a lot more to repair. I have repaired several flybacks with this problem by removing them from the board, removing the rusted clip and all the gunk and then threading a #12 or #14 insulated copper wire through the core and around the ferrite and then twisting it back on itself to cinch it up. You might also be able to accomplish similar without removing the flyback the core, between it and the PCB and then wrap it over the top. I think the core splits right about where most of your clip has disappeared-- about half way up the side of the flyback in your photo. I haven't it done it this way myself but you might also be able to save it with some epoxy or even hot melt glue if you can encapsulate both halves of the ferrite that way. Good luck. Chris -- Chris Elmquist