Yes "blipping" the coil with a 9V battery moves the heads. When the drive
was powered on I also measured the voltage by attaching a probe to each end
of the coil cable, in that case I measured about 1.3V only. So I am guessing
the coil is OK. Next step is to swap the boards back again.
Regards
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk-bounces at
classiccmp.org [mailto:cctalk-
bounces at
classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Rob Jarratt
Sent: 16 May 2010 20:13
To: 'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'
Subject: RE: RD53 Restoration
Thanks, never thought of the obvious, will dig out a 9V battery and try
that.
Thanks again.
Regards
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk-bounces at
classiccmp.org [mailto:cctalk-
bounces at
classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Tony Duell
Sent: 16 May 2010 20:03
To: cctalk at
classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: RD53 Restoration
Many thanks for the reply. I am not an electronics expert
unfortunately, but
Alas sometimes I forget that not everyone had a mis-sepnt
shildhood...
> will look at your suggestions. One thing I did (perhaps wrongly)
was
measure
> the voltage with one probe connected to the casing, not to the
other
pin on
This problaby is not the right thing to do. The point is that you
need
to
be able to pass a crurrent through the positioner coil in either
direction (one way will exert a force to move the heads towards the
spindle, the other way will exert a force to move the heads away form
the
spindle). Now if you had one side of the coil grounded (same voltage
as
the chassis) yoy would need power supplies of
both polarities wrt
ground
to be able to do that.
What is more commonly done is a circuit based on what is called a
'full
H
driver. Basiecaly it means both sides of the load (the coil in this
case)
can be driven. If one side is pulled towards ground tand the otehr
side
to, wayu, +12V, the heads moce one way. But if
the first side is
taken
to
+12V and hte second side to ground they move the other way.
If oyu measure the voltage wrt ground on one end of the coil you are,
effectively, only testing half the circuit. There could still be a
fault.
> the cable. I will try across the two pins to see what that is like.
I
don't
> have a DC supply I can use to "blip" the coil, unless I can press
the
PSU
Sure you do. I bet you'd get some movement using a small battery. P
> from my MicroVAX II into service for this? Is there a danger I
might
pass
too much current and burn the coil?
There is, which is why you 'blip' it. Actually, a battery is probably
the
safest, a primary (non-recharageable) 9V battery is not going to
supply
> enough current to do much damage.
>
> -tony