I did a search on Taig. Interesting machines and the
prices look
comparatively good. I was considering a lathe a while back for my
In my experience, you very much 'get what you pay for' with machine
tools. Tools that look too cheap to be good generally are.
Also watch out for impossible accuracy. I remember seing a hobbyist CNC
drill/mill kit that claimed an accuracy of 1/10 thou [1]. Well, the
electronics/stepper motors may have been capable of that, but by the time
you've aded in the errors due to the unevenness of the leadscews, paly i
nthe bearings, flatness of the slides, etc, you are not going to get
anything like that accuracy. Note that even solid-looking iron castings
(like a lathe bed) may distort by that sort of amount when bolted odwn,
hence the require to check and addjust all sorts of things when
installing a precieison machine tool. Any machine tool that doesn't
require this is most likely not precision :-)
[1] To point out the obvious, a 'thou' is a thousandth of an inch.
rocketry hobby...
Which machine would one need for automated drilling? It looks like the
CNC Mill would be needed. It's new price is $2200+. It would have to be
discounted an awful lot on the used market before I would think that was a
better buy than just having boards professionally fabricated.
I think the Micro Mill is mechanically capable of the job, but it doesn't
seem to have any type of automated controls, but perhaps I just don't
understand what a mill is.
In general, machine tools come as manual and CNC (Computer Numeric
Control -- automatic) versions. The difference is that the altter have
stepper motors driving the leadscres that psotion the workpiece relatice
to the cutter, and thus can be used automatically. Manual machine tools
have graduated dials on the controls, you have to do everything by hand.
With a CNC tool, you vcan normally move everal things at once (rather
like drawing a diagonal line with a pen plotter) and thus may be able ot
make shapes you can't easity do on the manual version. That said, I would
much rather use a good manual machine tool than a poor CNC one.
A mill (or milling machine) is basically a machines that positions a
workpiece against a revolving cutter. The workpiece can be moved along 3
aes, it may also be able to be rotated (with most, if not all, machine
otols, you start adding accessories, either commercial or home-made and
can do jobs the manuifactuerer never imagined :-)). So iot can be used as
a drilling machin, or for cutting slots, odd shaped holes, cavities in
metal blocks, making strange shapes out of metal blocks, cutting gears,
and so on.
Which leads to the other issue. In order to make an intelligent decision
about buying a drilling machine, it seems that I must become moderately
educated about the art of machining. Which is an interesting topic, but
not the hobby I was setting out to practice.
This is very much true. Home shop machining (I much prefer that American
term to the Britsh one of 'Model Engineering') is a hobby in itself. If
you want to do it, it's great fun. But that's not saying you hsve to want
to do it [2]. Do you know anyone who does this sort of thing and who can
talk to you, and /or let you use a machine tool? Buying machine tools
(lathe or mill) is a major investment, you don't just need the tool
itself, but also all sorts of other bits (you won't do mcuh without a
micrometer, for example). You want to be sure you want to get into it.
[2] That applies to all sorts of other things, like using PLDs or
microcotnrollers :-)
This is what ultimately stopped me from buying a lathe
for rocketry.
I finally got a lathe when I wanted to make a mechanical spare for a
device that the manufactuers would not sell me. yes, the lateh cost about
10 times as much as the device was worth, but I'd been looking at them
for some time, and I knew I wanted one. I have several interests where
the ability to make metal parts is very useful.
Toner transfer PCB fabrication is attractive because I
already have a
When I was making PCbs, I found the UV method to be more reliable (even
though the pre-coated boards were more expensive). The UV exposure unit
is easy to build (the UV tubes are avaialbe as spares for commercial PCB
exposeure untis, they are notm of course, the same as the ones used to
erase EPROMS), the starters and balasts are the same as for normal
fluorescent lamps, and the timer is pretty easy to design.
laser printer that serves another purpose. A
laminator takes up little
space and is easy to put away. The etching tank is a bit of a pain, but
not too bad.
The problem is when I start adding in a milling machine, learning enough
about machining to make intelligent purchases, or building a drilling
machine out of a plotter, and the same two issues for electroplating,
which also kind of leads to building one's own power supply (AKA plating
rectifier).
What are you planning to plate? AFAIK gold plating (which is the one you
ar most likely to wnat to do) involves some _very_ toxic substances.
All of these are interesting topics/diversions, but enough of them and one
isn't practicing hobby electronics any more, one is practicing PCB making
as the primary hobby.
It';s very much up to you. I enjoy metal machining, and it's useful in
many of my hobbies (classic computing, horology, even photography). But I
certainly wouldn't suggest you should go out and buy a machine tool
without carefully considering what you want to do.
Of course, if enough of my hobbies lead to machining, maybe I should take
it up. I don't know where I'd make the space for the tools though.
Someone else mentioned using a drill press with jigs. How would that
work? Would that be like having a pre-drilled template? That might be
Basically, yes. An old trick, which I've used many times with a
Dremel-type drill is to clamp a bit of perboard over the IC pads on the
PCB and drill through the holes on thbe perfboard. Sure they weare out
fast, and the accuracy is not perfect, but it's a lot better than doing
it totally by hand.
interesting. I could see using the toner transfer
procedure on a piece of
steel, then drilling the steel and then pegging boards to the steel for
I don't see the point of this if you're making one-offs.I would only
really be interested in making one-off prototpyes at home. FOr those it's
handy to be able ot chage the desing and get a quick turn-round, and/or
not have to meet some minium order size. Buit if I ahve a design that I
want, say, 50 or 100 boards of, I'd got to a PCB company.
-tony