16 May
2010
16 May
'10
7:07 a.m.
There are many outfits offering repair kits for PCB edge connectors, but
all of them are $2-300. That's complete overkill for the one or two
repairs per year I might need to perform.
If I purchase a "frame" of dry-adhesive backed traces from Circuit Medic,
what are the chances of using a temperature-controlled bench iron to bond
them? Anyone have experience with this? I can see making the $40
investment if it has even a chance of working.
Alternately, what other approaches have folks used?
Steve
--
16 May
16 May
11:43 a.m.
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 10:07:17 -0400
From: snhirsch at gmail.com
To: cctech at classiccmp.org
Subject: Edge connector repair
There are many outfits offering repair kits for PCB edge connectors, but
all of them are $2-300. That's complete overkill for the one or two
repairs per year I might need to perform.
If I purchase a "frame" of dry-adhesive backed traces from Circuit Medic,
what are the chances of using a temperature-controlled bench iron to bond
them? Anyone have experience with this? I can see making the $40
investment if it has even a chance of working.
Alternately, what other approaches have folks used?
Steve
--
Hi
If it is really bad, I cut another scrap boards connector up with
a fine bimetal hacksaw. I then epoxy the new connector or part
of connector on. When set, I reconnect traces with hookup wire.
Place tape on gold fingers to keep accidental solder from running
on them.
Dwight
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2:49 p.m.
On Sun, 16 May 2010, dwight elvey wrote:
> There are many outfits offering repair kits for
PCB edge connectors, but
> all of them are $2-300. That's complete overkill for the one or two
> repairs per year I might need to perform.
>
> If I purchase a "frame" of dry-adhesive backed traces from Circuit Medic,
> what are the chances of using a temperature-controlled bench iron to bond
> them? Anyone have experience with this? I can see making the $40
> investment if it has even a chance of working.
>
> Alternately, what other approaches have folks used?
If it is really bad, I cut another scrap boards
connector up with
a fine bimetal hacksaw. I then epoxy the new connector or part
of connector on. When set, I reconnect traces with hookup wire.
Place tape on gold fingers to keep accidental solder from running
on them.
That's a last resort in the current case. I'd rather not hack up the
board unless all else fails.
Steve
--
1:57 p.m.
Steven Hirsch wrote:
There are many outfits offering repair kits for PCB
edge connectors,
but all of them are $2-300. That's complete overkill for the one or
two repairs per year I might need to perform.
If I purchase a "frame" of dry-adhesive backed traces from Circuit
Medic, what are the chances of using a temperature-controlled bench
iron to bond them? Anyone have experience with this? I can see
making the $40 investment if it has even a chance of working.
Alternately, what other approaches have folks used?
Steve
Here is an outfit that sells rework kits for PCBs - and a link to the
page of Circuit Frames:
http://www.engineeringlab.com/circuitframes.html
These look very promissing, I have a rework kit from PACE dated in the
1980s that I am still working through, but this site is great - I will
be ordering some of their frames for my shop and would sell a few pads
if asked nicely...
John :-#)#
flippers.com
17 May
17 May
4:38 a.m.
On Sun, 16 May 2010, John Robertson wrote:
Steven Hirsch wrote:
> There are many outfits offering repair kits for PCB edge connectors, but
> all of them are $2-300. That's complete overkill for the one or two
> repairs per year I might need to perform.
>
> If I purchase a "frame" of dry-adhesive backed traces from Circuit Medic,
> what are the chances of using a temperature-controlled bench iron to bond
> them? Anyone have experience with this? I can see making the $40
> investment if it has even a chance of working.
>
Here is an outfit that sells rework kits for PCBs -
and a link to the page of
Circuit Frames:
http://www.engineeringlab.com/circuitframes.html
These look very promissing, I have a rework kit from PACE dated in the 1980s
that I am still working through, but this site is great - I will be ordering
some of their frames for my shop and would sell a few pads if asked nicely...
Thanks! Those appear to be the same frames that Circuit Medic offers, but
with better picutures, more complete description and 1/2 the price :-).
I need to find out from them if a temperature-controlled iron can
rationally substitute for the $70 bonding iron and $40 tip (ouch).
Steve
--
9:02 a.m.
Steven Hirsch wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010, John Robertson wrote:
Hi Steve,
You know - you might be able to get away with using very thin copper
sheet stock that you cut to size, solder then use a drop of
cyanoacrylate/cyanoacrylic (Krazy) glue to hold it down. I've done this
with edge card repairs successfully, using the old PACE tinned copper
PCB repair strips, don't see why you can't do the same with copper shim
stock, tinning, then cutting, soldering and gluing yourself.
John :-#)#
--
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, VideoGames)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"
Steven Hirsch wrote:
> There are many outfits offering repair kits for PCB edge connectors,
> but all of them are $2-300. That's complete overkill for the one or
> two repairs per year I might need to perform.
>
> If I purchase a "frame" of dry-adhesive backed traces from Circuit
> Medic, what are the chances of using a temperature-controlled bench
> iron to bond them? Anyone have experience with this? I can see
> making the $40 investment if it has even a chance of working.
>
Here is an outfit that sells rework kits for PCBs
- and a link to the
page of Circuit Frames:
http://www.engineeringlab.com/circuitframes.html
These look very promissing, I have a rework kit from PACE dated in
the 1980s that I am still working through, but this site is great - I
will be ordering some of their frames for my shop and would sell a
few pads if asked nicely...
Thanks! Those appear to be the same frames that Circuit Medic offers,
but with better picutures, more complete description and 1/2 the price
:-).
I need to find out from them if a temperature-controlled iron can
rationally substitute for the $70 bonding iron and $40 tip (ouch).
Steve
1:26 p.m.
On Mon, 17 May 2010, John Robertson wrote:
>> These look very promissing, I have a rework
kit from PACE dated in the
>> 1980s that I am still working through, but this site is great - I will be
>> ordering some of their frames for my shop and would sell a few pads if
>> asked nicely...
>
> Thanks! Those appear to be the same frames that Circuit Medic offers, but
> with better picutures, more complete description and 1/2 the price :-).
>
> I need to find out from them if a temperature-controlled iron can
> rationally substitute for the $70 bonding iron and $40 tip (ouch).
They were discouraging about using a soldering iron - too hot. The
bonding iron is << solder melt point and must stay in contact for about 30
seconds.
You know - you might be able to get away with using
very thin copper sheet
stock that you cut to size, solder then use a drop of
cyanoacrylate/cyanoacrylic (Krazy) glue to hold it down. I've done this with
edge card repairs successfully, using the old PACE tinned copper PCB repair
strips, don't see why you can't do the same with copper shim stock, tinning,
then cutting, soldering and gluing yourself.
That would do in a pinch - wouldn't be gold plated, but perhaps not a
fatal issue.
Where does one find shim stock that thin?
Steve
--
4:35 p.m.
Steven Hirsch wrote:
On Mon, 17 May 2010, John Robertson wrote:
A quick search turned up this 1mil copper sheet...they have many more
thicknesses available.
http://basiccopper.com/1milcopperfoil.html
John :-#)#
--
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, VideoGames)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"
>> These look very promissing, I have a
rework kit from PACE dated in
>> the 1980s that I am still working through, but this site is great -
>> I will be ordering some of their frames for my shop and would sell
>> a few pads if asked nicely...
>
> Thanks! Those appear to be the same frames that Circuit Medic
> offers, but with better picutures, more complete description and 1/2
> the price :-).
>
> I need to find out from them if a temperature-controlled iron can
> rationally substitute for the $70 bonding iron and $40 tip (ouch).
They were discouraging about using a soldering iron - too hot. The
bonding iron is << solder melt point and must stay in contact for
about 30 seconds.
You know - you might be able to get away with
using very thin copper
sheet stock that you cut to size, solder then use a drop of
cyanoacrylate/cyanoacrylic (Krazy) glue to hold it down. I've done
this with edge card repairs successfully, using the old PACE tinned
copper PCB repair strips, don't see why you can't do the same with
copper shim stock, tinning, then cutting, soldering and gluing yourself.
That would do in a pinch - wouldn't be gold plated, but perhaps not a
fatal issue.
Where does one find shim stock that thin?
Steve
16 May
16 May
5:38 p.m.
On Sun, 16 May 2010, Steven Hirsch wrote:
Alternately, what other approaches have folks used?
The TRS80 sometimes had edge connector issues (corrosion, etc.)
For a while, there was a company making gold-plate MALE edge connector IDC
connectors (34 and 40 pin); with a few inch long "edge connector
extension", it was possible to significantly reduce the frequency of
connecting and disconnecting the edge connectors. With some dremeling
away of the female connector, it was possible to solder small wires to the
connections.
For a little while, a similar looking male edge connector was available
without staggered pins, that could be shoved onto the flaky edge connector
and soldered.
5:59 p.m.
On Sun, 16 May 2010, Fred Cisin wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2010, Steven Hirsch wrote:
I've seen those. In my case, I'm trying to repair an Apple 2 card and
would need a 50-pin male.
--
Alternately, what other approaches have folks
used?
The TRS80 sometimes had edge connector issues (corrosion, etc.)
For a while, there was a company making gold-plate MALE edge connector IDC
connectors (34 and 40 pin); with a few inch long "edge connector
extension", it was possible to significantly reduce the frequency of
connecting and disconnecting the edge connectors. With some dremeling
away of the female connector, it was possible to solder small wires to the
connections.
For a little while, a similar looking male edge connector was available
without staggered pins, that could be shoved onto the flaky edge connector
and soldered. 
6:03 p.m.
If you're just concerned about the plating, there's a solution:
http://www.circuitmedic.com/products/201-6100.shtml
http://www.engineeringlab.com/contactrepair.html
Pace has a ThermoBond CirKit to replace missing conductors:
http://www.paceworldwide.com/product/view/id/477.html
--Chuck
17 May
17 May
4:34 a.m.
On Sun, 16 May 2010, Chuck Guzis wrote:
If you're just concerned about the plating,
there's a solution:
http://www.circuitmedic.com/products/201-6100.shtml
http://www.engineeringlab.com/contactrepair.html
Not just plating, unfortunately. The entire finger is gone.
Pace has a ThermoBond CirKit to replace missing
conductors:
http://www.paceworldwide.com/product/view/id/477.html
Sure, for $375... In their dreams.
Steve
--
1:42 p.m.
On 17 May 2010 at 7:34, Steven Hirsch wrote:
Sure, for $375... In their dreams.
Okay, how about masking and painting the missing contact with some
silver- or copper-conductive PCB repair paint, then electroplating a
few mils of copper onto that? Finish with a gold flash and it should
work like the original.
--Chuck
18 May
18 May
8:04 a.m.
Chuck Guzis wrote:
On 17 May 2010 at 7:34, Steven Hirsch wrote:
That won't work for edge connectors - it would disintegrate under
contact wiping and/or pressure. Particularly if the pad is passing any
current (power rails).
John :-#)#
Sure, for $375... In their dreams.
Okay, how about masking and painting the missing contact with some
silver- or copper-conductive PCB repair paint, then electroplating a
few mils of copper onto that? Finish with a gold flash and it should
work like the original.
--Chuck
19 May
19 May
8:13 a.m.
On 18 May 2010 at 8:04, John Robertson wrote:
That won't work for edge connectors - it would
disintegrate under
contact wiping and/or pressure. Particularly if the pad is passing any
current (power rails).
I don't understand why this would be the case. Copper is copper,
whether it's foil glued on or electroplated.
Heck, during the 80's, PCBs that were *all* electrodeposition (no
etching) were widely produced. An electroless copper process formed
the base, which was then electroplated to the desired thickness. PCB
vias are still formed this way.
Thickness isn't an issue--whole parts are sometimes produced by
electrodeposition of copper, far greater than the thickness of the
foil used in PCBs.
Can you offer a cite or some rationale as to why electrodeposited
copper is inferior to foil?
Chuck
9:53 a.m.
Chuck Guzis wrote:
On 18 May 2010 at 8:04, John Robertson wrote:
You didn't quote the entire discussion. If you had you would realize I
was responding to your point of:
----------(quote)------------
Okay, how about masking and painting the missing contact with some
silver- or copper-conductive PCB repair paint, then electroplating a
few mils of copper onto that? Finish with a gold flash and it should
work like the original.
--Chuck
-------------(end quote)------------
My point is that painting a coating and then electroplating copper etc.
is still going to leave a surface that is unlikely to survive the
pressures of being inserted into a card edge connector. Also my
experience with card edge repair power bus connectors leads me to
believe this would not survive any real current (2 - 5 amps) unless the
surface is completely flat - which is very hard to do with the paint up
PCB kits.
In my 30 some years of board repairs (not mil-spec, but commercial grade
- mostly pinball and video game logic boards) I have found that edge
connectors that carry power buses are the most difficult to repair for
long term survival. That is why I use the PACE style replacement tinned
copper sheets - they work. I am sure that other methods exist that works
just as well, but this works for me - and my customers are happy with
boards that run for years between service.
John :-#)#
--
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, VideoGames)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"
That won't work for edge connectors - it
would disintegrate under
contact wiping and/or pressure. Particularly if the pad is passing any
current (power rails).
I don't understand why this would be the case. Copper is copper,
whether it's foil glued on or electroplated.
Heck, during the 80's, PCBs that were *all* electrodeposition (no
etching) were widely produced. An electroless copper process formed
the base, which was then electroplated to the desired thickness. PCB
vias are still formed this way.
Thickness isn't an issue--whole parts are sometimes produced by
electrodeposition of copper, far greater than the thickness of the
foil used in PCBs.
Can you offer a cite or some rationale as to why electrodeposited
copper is inferior to foil?
Chuck
17 May
17 May
12:31 p.m.
On Sun, 16 May 2010, Steven Hirsch wrote:
The normal cure for that (which I never had to do) was to solder a header
plug onto the edge of the PCB and to replace the cables with ones with
suitable header sockets.
Alternately, what other approaches have folks
used?
The TRS80 sometimes had edge connector issues (corrosion, etc.) For a while, there was a company making gold-plate
MALE edge connector IDC
connectors (34 and 40 pin); with a few inch long "edge connector
My Philips P8450 has PCB-backplane connectors which are a bit like 2-part
edge connectors. The chassis mounted part is similar to an edge connector,
but with a wider-than-normal slot (it looks like it's for a thick PCB. The
PCB mouted part is a plastic strip with contacts on each side (like a
thinner version of the active bit of a microribbon connector). IIRC the
I/O connectors on the PCBs are the same design and I used normal edge
connectors to connect to them, so possibly the backplane connectors aren't
much different to normal edge connectors.
I have never seen these connectors used elsewhere, no idea where you'd
find them.
-tony
5331
days inactive
5334
days old
16 comments
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ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
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