9 Jun
1998
9 Jun
'98
6:26 a.m.
I've got a TRS-80 Model I that MOSTLY works (I typed in a program to fill
the screen with characters and the screen did fill up) except for the
video synchronization.
Characters lean to the right, and the display moves all over the screen.
Usually the motion is quickly to the left while also moving upward, though
sometimes it stabalizes and just moves upward.
Is there an adjustment to control this somewhere?
The machine is in beautiful physical shape - it looks unused. There's
even a sticker still on it that is stuck to the expansion port's trapdoor
and sticks also to the machine's case. And the warrantee seal hasn't been
broken yet.
Doug Spence
ds_spenc(a)alcor.concordia.ca
http://alcor.concordia.ca/~ds_spenc/
9 Jun
9 Jun
10:48 a.m.
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11 Jun
11 Jun
2:58 a.m.
On Tue, 9 Jun 1998, Tony Duell wrote:
Firstly (based on other messages here), how have you
connected the
monitor up? According to my Model 1 schematic, the monitor connector has
the video output on pin 4 and ground on pin 5 (the pins are numbered in
the order 1 4 2 5 3 of course). It could be something trivial like a bad
ground.
Doh!
Yes, Tony, your suspicion is correct. I had ASS-u-MEd that the ground was
on the same pin as on every other machine with a 5-pin DIN video connector
that I've played with. So I was using a stereo component cable, and using
the appropriate RCA connector to bring pin 4 to the monitor.
It looks like time to build a proper cable.
Maybe somebody should take my collection away from me before I blow
something up. ;)
Doug Spence
ds_spenc(a)alcor.concordia.ca
http://alcor.concordia.ca/~ds_spenc/
9:44 a.m.
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20 Jun
20 Jun
9:36 p.m.
On Thu, 11 Jun 1998, Tony Duell wrote:
A pile of service manuals, proper tools, an education (or a brain
transplant from you or Alison), and more free time is what I need. I hate
having all these great old machines and no clue about how to fix them if
anything went wrong. :/
Doug Spence
ds_spenc(a)alcor.concordia.ca
http://alcor.concordia.ca/~ds_spenc/
For a kludge do what I did when I had to get composite
video out of a
Model 1 without the right cable and without a soldering iron.
Get a 5 pin Din to 4 RCA phono connector cable. Easy to get from (say)
Radio Shack.
Use the pin 4 plug as composite out. Short the pin 5 plug by wrapping
wire around the pin and outer casing (this links ground, on pin 5 ,to the
screen of all the cables, and to pin 2 on the DIN plug, which is not
connected in the Model 1). Make sure the pin 1 plug doesn't short out -
it's connected to the +5V line in the computer.
This works beautifully, Tony! The letters are a bit unclear in 64 columns
on my C=1802 but I suspect that would still be the case even if I had a
proper video cable. (That CHR$(23) trick for fat letters is pretty cool.)
Maybe somebody
should take my collection away from me before I blow
something up. ;)
I think a better solution would be for someone to donate a pile of
service manuals to you. Not my pile though :-)
21 Jun
21 Jun
12:37 a.m.
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25 Jun
25 Jun
6:16 p.m.
On Sun, 21 Jun 1998, Tony Duell wrote:
Well... please tell me what these tricks are! :) I did notice in 32
column mode that the "PRINT @" command still thinks it's in 64 column
mode. (I wrote my traditional 'dump memory to screen' program as soon as I
could see what was going on.)
on my C=1802
but I suspect that would still be the case even if I had a
proper video cable. (That CHR$(23) trick for fat letters is pretty cool.)
Ah yes... Look at alternate characters in screen memory... (There are
tricks which involve convincing BASIC that it's in 32 col mode and
forcing the hardware to 64 col mode to get alternate letters and spaces
on the screen). As I've said before you don't need that many
tools. A good set of hand
tools, a soldering iron + solder sucker, a multimeter (analogue or
digital) and a logic probe are enough for most work.
I don't even know what a logic probe is, and I only learned since I've
been reading this list that I don't know how to use a soldering iron (hey,
heating the SOLDER until it melts to the contacts has worked _so_far_ ;)
).
Actually, I WAS using an old wood burning kit, but the copper (or brass?)
tip gets dirty WAAAAY too fast. So a year or two ago I finally picked up
something intended for soldering - but it's too wimpy (15W). I also
picked up a solder sucker, but it's a bulb type with a heating element at
the end, and it doesn't work very well. Maybe I just need more patience
with it.
Doug Spence
ds_spenc(a)alcor.concordia.ca
http://alcor.concordia.ca/~ds_spenc/
26 Jun
26 Jun
6:14 a.m.
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