21 Sep
1998
21 Sep
'98
1:59 p.m.
An Epson gas eaten several mailing labels over the years (I think at least
_some_ of the labels must be 10 years old!).
What's good stuff to remove the gunk without melting the plastic?
Thanks,
manney
21 Sep
21 Sep
2:34 p.m.
PG Manney wrote:
An Epson gas eaten several mailing labels over the years (I think at least
_some_ of the labels must be 10 years old!).
What's good stuff to remove the gunk without melting the plastic?
Thanks,
manney
Hi manny:
GOO GONE should do the trick. Lately it seems to be available at most
hardware, and even grocery stores.
Chuck
22 Sep
22 Sep
1:31 a.m.
At 22:34 21-09-98 -0400, Charles A Davis wrote:
PG Manney wrote:
Another good product to use for this is "De-Solv-it" Citrus Solution from
Orange-Sol Household Products. I like it better as it has no harsh solvents
but works a bit slower. Smells good too. We got ours either at WalMart or
KMart I think. Should be available in large grocery stores. I have no
association with that company; I just feel it is better because of it being
less likely to damage plastics or paint.
--Chris
-- --
Christian Fandt, Electronic/Electrical Historian
Jamestown, NY USA
Member of Antique Wireless Association
URL: http://www.ggw.org/freenet/a/awa/
An Epson gas eaten several mailing labels over the years (I think at least
_some_ of the labels must be 10 years old!).
What's good stuff to remove the gunk without melting the plastic?
Thanks,
manney
Hi manny:
GOO GONE should do the trick. Lately it seems to be available at most
hardware, and even grocery stores.
Chuck
21 Sep
21 Sep
3:30 p.m.
I use denatured alcohol and/or Goo-Gone. It works faster if you heat the
object first.
Joe
At 09:59 PM 9/21/98 -0400, you wrote:
An Epson gas eaten several mailing labels over the
years (I think at least
_some_ of the labels must be 10 years old!).
What's good stuff to remove the gunk without melting the plastic?
Thanks,
manney
22 Sep
22 Sep
4:12 a.m.
At 10:30 PM 9/21/98, you wrote:
I use denatured alcohol and/or Goo-Gone. It works
faster if you heat the
object first.
I forgot to add that it works better if you cover the spot with tin foil
after you apply the Goo-Gone. The foil keeps it from evaporating as fast.
I wouldn't use Goo Gone on a paper surface such as a book. It may stain
the surface. I haven't found a good way to get stickers off of them yet.
Joe
21 Sep
21 Sep
3:36 p.m.
PG Manney wrote:
An Epson gas eaten several mailing labels over the
years (I think at least
_some_ of the labels must be 10 years old!).
What's good stuff to remove the gunk without melting the plastic?
Lighter fluid (benzine) or denatured alcohol. Some glues work ok with the
alcohol, some with the lighter fluid. Some are even water based but not likely
on mailing labels. The goo is similar to rubber cement and benzine is the
solvent in rubber cement.
22 Sep
22 Sep
2:18 a.m.
> What's good stuff to remove the gunk without
melting the plastic?
An intriguing topic. Short-term, computer pin-feed mailing labels
can be removed with a heat gun. Use very light strokes, you just
want to warm the rubbery glue. Long-term, I've found that the
glue hardens to nasty stuff no longer dissolved in Goo-gone and
the like. You need to chip it off. The heat gun trick works with
old floppy disk labels, too. Pulling very, very, very slowly
does the trick. Aside from Goo-gone and other solvents, other people
have suggested using cooking oil, which here in the States tends
to mean corn oil.
- John
21 Sep
21 Sep
5:06 p.m.
On Mon, 21 Sep 1998, PG Manney wrote:
An Epson gas eaten several mailing labels over the
years (I think at least
_some_ of the labels must be 10 years old!).
What's good stuff to remove the gunk without melting the plastic?
Any citrus-based solvent. I use stuff called "A Touch of Orange". This
is better than that stuff you get from the hardware store called "Goo-off"
or what not. Also, enough rubbing alcohol will take just about anything
off.
Sam Alternate e-mail: dastar(a)siconic.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ever onward.
September 26 & 27...Vintage Computer Festival 2.0
See http://www.vintage.org/vcf for details!
[Last web site update: 09/21/98]
22 Sep
22 Sep
11:57 a.m.
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4:57 p.m.
New subject: Functional repairs, not cosmetic
Hokay, we've had enough discussion about making the cases pretty for
the groundlings to admire. They don't count. What matters is whether
or not the thing works. Anybody got a line on head load pads for old
8" single-sided floppy drives? My TRS-80 Model 2 is starting to eat
disks -- the pads probably should have been changed at least five
years ago. (Hints on making my own will help).
--
Ward Griffiths <mailto:gram@cnct.com> <http://www.cnct.com/home/gram/>
When I was crossing the border into Canada, they asked me if I had any
firearms with me. I said "Well, what do you need?" -- Steven Wright
1:37 p.m.
New subject: Functional repairs, not cosmetic
Ward Donald Griffiths III wrote:
Hokay, we've had enough discussion about making
the cases pretty for
the groundlings to admire. They don't count. What matters is whether
or not the thing works.
I must disagree with you on this matter. Cosmetic appearance matters very
much to me.A working computer is also just as important.
I will buy a Crappy looking computer for parts, but for my collection of
keepers I want it clean, Pristine, in fact if I find a computer for sale
still in the box with manuals, cables and everything in tact, I get
somewhat aroused like seeing a beautiful woman.. <Grin>
I know, I'm a sick man...
--Phil
23 Sep
23 Sep
5:27 a.m.
New subject: Functional repairs, not cosmetic
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2:21 a.m.
New subject: Functional repairs, not cosmetic
Ward Donald
Griffiths III wrote:
What matters is whether or not the thing works.
I must disagree with you on this matter. Cosmetic appearance matters very
much to me.A working computer is also just as important.
I'm somewhat halfway between the 2 viewpoints..
But I don't go crazy. I'll not ignore a rare machine because of a
scratched case. I don't normally repaint cases either. And I certainly
_use_ the machines, so they get some marks/scratches here. Nothing major,
but you can probably tell they're not just-out-the-factory.
I will buy a Crappy looking computer for parts,
but for my collection of
keepers I want it clean, Pristine, in fact if I find a computer for sale
still in the box with manuals, cables and everything in tact, I get
I care about manuals - as a source of information, not as something to
make the machine 'complete'. Cables are useful, but it's not hard to make
new ones if they're missing. And I really couldn't care less about the box...
-tony
24 Sep
24 Sep
5:20 a.m.
New subject: Functional repairs, not cosmetic
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25 Sep
25 Sep
6:15 a.m.
New subject: Functional repairs, not cosmetic
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23 Sep
23 Sep
6:57 a.m.
New subject: Functional repairs, not cosmetic
At 09:37 PM 9/22/98 -0400, you wrote:
I find a computer for sale
still in the box with manuals, cables and everything in
tact, I get
somewhat aroused like seeing a beautiful woman.. <Grin>
I know, I'm a sick man...
--Phil
Phil, You need to get out more!
Joe
PS I know where there's a NIB TI-99. I have a LNIB Mattel Aquarius,
interested?
22 Sep
22 Sep
5:55 p.m.
New subject: A chapter every computer manual should have
The last chapter of my "Gun Direction Computer M15" manual has a section
on destroying the computer if it should fall into enemy hands:
By Mechanical Means
1) Disconnect the gun direction computer from its source of power.
2) Open the hinged doors on the front and rear of the case.
3) Remove the plug-in units from the cells of the computer main frame.
4) Using an axe, pick mattock, sledge, or other heavy implement, destroy
the gun direction computer by smashing the range unit, azimuth and
deflection unit, fuze unit, quadrant elevation unit, muzzle velocity unit,
spot correction unit, origin, reference, replot unit, main control unit,
meteorological unit, H/R unit, amplifiers, terminal boards, and blowers.
Elapsed time: 5 minutes.
[then run away]
-- Doug
6:03 p.m.
New subject: A chapter every computer manual should have
The last chapter of my "Gun Direction Computer
M15" manual has a section
on destroying the computer if it should fall into enemy hands:
The idea makes my flesh crawl. (I'm not saying it shouldn't be done, only
that it's really scary).
I was going to mention another chapter every computer manual should have.
This also fits into the "It may be a mainframe if..." list that periodically
gets discussed on alt.folklore.computers.
The manual for the SWAC (used by the U.S. Bureau of Standards) has a whole
chapter on first-aid procedures, with emphasis on treatment of burns.
I don't know if it explains how to treat injuries from heavy objects
or angry co-workers.
-- Derek
6:03 p.m.
New subject: A chapter every computer manual should have
On Wed, 23 Sep 1998, Doug Yowza wrote:
4) Using an axe, pick mattock, sledge, or other heavy
implement, destroy
the gun direction computer by smashing the range unit, azimuth and
deflection unit, fuze unit, quadrant elevation unit, muzzle velocity unit,
spot correction unit, origin, reference, replot unit, main control unit,
meteorological unit, H/R unit, amplifiers, terminal boards, and blowers.
Elapsed time: 5 minutes.
What about the old tried and true "swallowing" method? Might be slow, and
a little painful on the other end, but if you don't happen to have a
sledge hammer handy it would be your only recourse.
Sam Alternate e-mail: dastar(a)siconic.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ever onward.
September 26 & 27...Vintage Computer Festival 2.0
See http://www.vintage.org/vcf for details!
[Last web site update: 09/21/98]
6:35 p.m.
New subject: A chapter every computer manual should have
Doug Yowza wrote:
The last chapter of my "Gun Direction Computer M15" manual has a section
on destroying the computer if it should fall into enemy hands:
By Mechanical Means
1) Disconnect the gun direction computer from its source of power.
2) Open the hinged doors on the front and rear of the case.
3) Remove the plug-in units from the cells of the computer main frame.
4) Using an axe, pick mattock, sledge, or other heavy implement, destroy
the gun direction computer by smashing the range unit, azimuth and
deflection unit, fuze unit, quadrant elevation unit, muzzle velocity unit,
spot correction unit, origin, reference, replot unit, main control unit,
meteorological unit, H/R unit, amplifiers, terminal boards, and blowers.
Elapsed time: 5 minutes.
[then run away]
How about what should be line 0, using the gun to prevent the rest of
the instructions being necessary?
--
Ward Griffiths <mailto:gram@cnct.com> <http://www.cnct.com/home/gram/>
When I was crossing the border into Canada, they asked me if I had any
firearms with me. I said "Well, what do you need?" -- Steven Wright
23 Sep
23 Sep
1 a.m.
New subject: A chapter every computer manual should have
At 02:35 AM 9/23/98 -0400, you wrote:
Doug Yowza wrote:
Ward, you forget that our government doesn't even trust it's soldiers
with live ammo! When the federal troops were patrolling Miami after
hurricane Andrew they had to send Fla National Guardsmen out with them to
protect the regular army types since the gangs were holding them up and
taking their weapons.
Joe
The last chapter of my "Gun Direction Computer M15" manual has a section
on destroying the computer if it should fall into enemy hands:
By Mechanical Means
1) Disconnect the gun direction computer from its source of power.
2) Open the hinged doors on the front and rear of the case.
3) Remove the plug-in units from the cells of the computer main frame.
4) Using an axe, pick mattock, sledge, or other heavy implement, destroy
the gun direction computer by smashing the range unit, azimuth and
deflection unit, fuze unit, quadrant elevation unit, muzzle velocity unit,
spot correction unit, origin, reference, replot unit, main control unit,
meteorological unit, H/R unit, amplifiers, terminal boards, and blowers.
Elapsed time: 5 minutes.
[then run away]
How about what should be line 0, using the gun to prevent the rest of
the instructions being necessary? --
Ward Griffiths <mailto:gram@cnct.com> <http://www.cnct.com/home/gram/>
When I was crossing the border into Canada, they asked me if I had any
firearms with me. I said "Well, what do you need?" -- Steven Wright
1:16 a.m.
New subject: A chapter every computer manual should have
The last chapter of my "Gun Direction Computer
M15" manual has a section
on destroying the computer if it should fall into enemy hands:
Instructions ("destructions" as Greenback and Stilletto would say) like
this are common in military tech manuals - at least ones that have even
the smallest chance of being near the front.
William Donzelli
william(a)ans.net
1:32 a.m.
New subject: A chapter every computer manual should have
The last
chapter of my "Gun Direction Computer M15" manual has a section
on destroying the computer if it should fall into enemy hands:
Instructions ("destructions" as Greenback and Stilletto would say) like
this are common in military tech manuals - at least ones that have even
the smallest chance of being near the front. 
1:48 p.m.
New subject: A chapter every computer manual should have
The last
chapter of my "Gun Direction Computer M15" manual has a section
on destroying the computer if it should fall into enemy hands:
Instructions ("destructions" as Greenback and Stilletto would say) like
this are common in military tech manuals - at least ones that have even
the smallest chance of being near the front.
William Donzelli
william(a)ans.net
12:50 a.m.
New subject: Functional repairs, not cosmetic
At 12:57 AM 9/23/98 -0400, you wrote:
Hokay, we've had enough discussion about making the
cases pretty for
the groundlings to admire. They don't count. What matters is whether
or not the thing works. Anybody got a line on head load pads for old
8" single-sided floppy drives? My TRS-80 Model 2 is starting to eat
DAMM! I just passed up three 8" drives! I have three or four extras
laying around here. How interchangeable are they among the different brands?
Joe
9586
days inactive
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days old
26 comments
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participants (16)
-
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
cad＠gamewood.net -
cfandt＠servtech.com -
dastar＠ncal.verio.com -
dpeschel＠u.washington.edu -
eric＠brouhaha.com -
gram＠cnct.com -
handyman＠sprintmail.com -
healyzh＠ix.netcom.com -
jfoust＠threedee.com -
jruschme＠exit109.com -
manney＠lrbcg.com -
rhblake＠bbtel.com -
rigdonj＠intellistar.net -
william＠ans.net -
yowza＠yowza.com