26 Nov
2006
26 Nov
'06
3:27 p.m.
--- Tony Duell <ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk> wrote:
oh dear :(
he
At 4:27 PM -0600 11/25/06,
aliensrcooluk at yahoo.co.uk wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Just came across this page (well, someone
>posted it to another email group) and thought
>some of you might like to take a look at it.
>
>
>http://www.science.uva.nl/museum/rampspoed.html
>
>
>Among the usual rubber turning to liquid/sticky
Interestingly, it shows a Vesatec V80. Exactly the
same thing has
happened to the platten roller in my V80 :-(, so
sometime I am going to
have to work out how to repair that,,,
>stuff are
dirty keyboards (under the keys),
Is this a real problem? I generally pull all the
keycaps (and clean those
with Maplin foam cleaner), then if possible take t rest of the keyboard
apart and clean all the bits spearately. Yes, it's
time-consuming (takes
an afternoon to do a keyboard), but it doesn't
involve making/obtaining
special parts, etc.
How easy is it to take the plastic (?) keys
off of a keyboard without damaging either
the keys or the contacts underneath?
I assume, if they are taken off without
damage to them, they would simple clip back on?
I have never taken a keyboard apart yet, and
will no doubt need to someday. I probably won't
bother until a keyboard, or keys, starts failing.
Regards,
Andrew B
aliensrcooluk at yahoo.co.uk
26 Nov
26 Nov
5:22 p.m.
How easy is it to take the plastic (?) keys
off of a keyboard without damaging either
the keys or the contacts underneath?
I assume, if they are taken off without
damage to them, they would simple clip back on?
I have never taken a keyboard apart yet, and
will no doubt need to someday. I probably won't
bother until a keyboard, or keys, starts failing.
Most of the time you can just pull them off. They're
held on as an interference fit, meaning simply
pressure. I guess there are exceptions though, so
don't keep pulling if it ain't coming off...
My experiment proved successful, though I hardly got
any acclaim for it :(. Several of the keys on my NEC
APC III's were unresponsive. So I took a plastic tub,
filled it with hot water, tossed in about a cup of
laundry detergent, roughly a litre of ammonia, tossed
in the keyboard, and left it there for several hours.
Pulled it out at one point, rattled all the keys, put
it back in for several more hours, then rattled once
more and rinsed. Left it by the air conditioner for
several hours and it worked fine afterwards. I saw no
evidence of corrosion due to the ammonia, so next time
I'll leave it in longer.
I didn't pull any of the keytops off, not sure if
they just pop off (probably).
My TIPPC came with several of the key tops broken
off, and was led to believe this happened in transit
(yeah likely). Luckily I have 2 keyboards that
although resemble a desktop TI PC's to a large extent,
they have a different connector (like a header
connector - anyone have a clue what they're for?
Probably a terminal I would imagine). So I aim to
unsolder the offending "pots" and solder new ones in,
repleat with the correct key top.
____________________________________________________________________________________
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5:53 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
and what do you all use to eliminate the chunky green
gunk that seems to assumulate primarily on card edge
contacts? I was thinking of Brasso and a rag. I think
it's about time I got this Lisa operational. Had it
for a year and a half...
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27 Nov
27 Nov
4:15 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Chris M wrote:
and what do you all use to eliminate the chunky green
gunk that seems to assumulate primarily on card edge
contacts? I was thinking of Brasso and a rag. I think
it's about time I got this Lisa operational. Had it
for a year and a half...
I use the ink end of a pencil/ink rubber. Very gently though.
Gordon
10:58 a.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
--- Jay West <jwest at classiccmp.org> wrote:
Chris M. wrote...
Yo thanks. Where can I find the stu-f-f (see, I was
careful there LOL LOL). It hurt too
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> and what do you all use to eliminate the
chunky
green
> gunk that seems to assumulate primarily on
card
edge
> contacts?
Caig ProGold. Best thing out there.
Jay 
11:18 a.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
And thusly were the wise words spake by Chris M
Radio Shack seems to sell it - 64.4338.
Cheers,
Bryan
Caig ProGold. Best thing out there.
Jay
Yo thanks. Where can I find the stu-f-f (see, I was
careful there LOL LOL). It hurt too
11:46 a.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Rumor has it that Chris M may have mentioned these words:
--- Jay West <jwest at classiccmp.org> wrote:
Google is your friend...
http://www.caig.com/
For potentiometers & whatnot, this stuff works wonders, too:
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.183/.f
I bought an old 0-40V 0-1.5A variable bench power supply at a garage sale
for $5.00 USD; it worked fine but the pots were *very scratchy* - couple
shots of that stuff in each one and a couple full wipes, and the rascal's
dead on again. Smooth as silk. :-)
Chris M. wrote...
Yo thanks. Where can I find the stu-f-f (see, I was
careful there LOL LOL). > and what do you all use to eliminate the
chunky
green
> gunk that seems to assumulate primarily on
card
edge
> contacts?
Caig ProGold. Best thing out there.
Jay It hurt too
They have creams for that now. ;-)
Prost,
Roger "Merch" Merchberger
--
Roger "Merch" Merchberger -- SysAdmin, Iceberg Computers
_??_ zmerch at 30below.com
(?||?) If at first you don't succeed, nuclear warhead
_)(_ disarmament should *not* be your first career choice.
12:26 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Chris M wrote:
>Caig ProGold. Best thing out there.
Yo thanks. Where can I find the stu-f-f (see, I was
careful there LOL LOL). It hurt too
-- try here!
http://www.tubesandmore.com/
12:35 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
>>Caig ProGold. Best thing out there.
ok, enough of you dudes seem to be familiar with the
stuff, how does it compare with Brasso? This presumes
some of you have used it, but it's essentially a
liquid polishing compound mainly intended for
furniture, brass bedposts and the like. It will
restore luster. I don't know if it could prove
detrimental to the varnish used on boards, or the
boards themselves...so I guess I should try it.
Just curious if it was really anything different, so
as not to blow cash where it wasn't necessary.
And what about battery corrosion, whether it be on a
board or on say contacts (not on the Lisa, just that
it would be nice to know).
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12:57 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Chris M wrote....
ok, enough of you dudes seem to be familiar with the
stuff, how does it compare with Brasso?
Brasso is for Brass. Not Gold.
I am not a chemist... but I can't imagine using Brasso.
There are several things to consider... removing oxidation and debris,
sealing, and lubricating. Caig ProGold does all of the above. It is
electrically inert in case you forgot to power off that board before
spraying it. But in addition to the cleaning and sealing capabilities....
ProGold is awesome for lubrication. Have a lot of boards that just don't
ever want to come out of the backplane or seat in it well? Without rocking
back and forth and prying? Clean the backplane pins and the card edges with
Caig ProGold. It will slide in and out nicely from now on. It's an
immediately noticeable difference. Not to mention the whole "better contact"
thing.
Jay
2:57 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
--- Jay West <jwest at classiccmp.org> wrote:
There are several things to consider... removing
oxidation and debris,
sealing, and lubricating. Caig ProGold does all of
the above.
ProGold is great stuff, but it is intended for sealing
and lubrication only. For deoxidation, Caig makes
another product, DeOxIt.
--Bill
4:22 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Bill wrote....
ProGold is great stuff, but it is intended for
sealing
and lubrication only. For deoxidation, Caig makes
another product, DeOxIt.
I'll have to check, but as I recall the directions for ProGold say you can
use just ProGold to deoxidize as well, and if the oxidation is bad - to use
deoxit first, then progold.
With fantastic products like the above available, I just can't imagine even
discussing things like brasso and jewlers rouge!
Jay
1:50 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
On 28 Nov 2006 at 12:35, Chris M wrote:
ok, enough of you dudes seem to be familiar with the
stuff, how does it compare with Brasso?
One of my hobbies is repairing and rebuilding brass musical wind
instruments (trumpets, horns, tubas, etc.)--and the mention of Brasso
causes me to cringe. Basically it's an abrasive in a mixture of
stoddard solvent and ammonia. The problem is that the abrasive is
far to aggressive. Sometimes I'll get old horns that have had the
engraving almost obliterated by overuse of Brasso.
Consider that the gold plating on an edge connector is only a few
microns thick and that gold is much softer than brass.
On old PCBs, I've had pretty good success with just a toothbrush and
a mild detergent in warm water. Follow up with a deionized water
rinse followed by ethyl alcohol as a drier. In severe cases, a
buffing compound, such as rouge, applied with a cotton buff on a
Dremel should clean things right up.
Cheers,
Chuck
2:18 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Chuck Guzis wrote:
On old PCBs, I've had pretty good success with
just a toothbrush and
a mild detergent in warm water. Follow up with a deionized water
rinse followed by ethyl alcohol as a drier. In severe cases, a
buffing compound, such as rouge, applied with a cotton buff on a
Dremel should clean things right up.
I tend to use a soft (read worn-out) toothbrush and methanol on old
PCBs. I never pour the alcohol on the board. I always pour it in a
tray and dip the toothbrush in it.
Peace... Sridhar
2:27 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
--- Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
On 28 Nov 2006 at 12:35, Chris M wrote:
OT - would the effect of Brasso differ much from
"jeweler's rouge", which I'm told is essentially rust
and a lite oil? I've never actually seen it, not sure
if it came as a solid or liquid (or is even still
available). Sears sells these sticks nowadays, one of
them being basically rust colored, so I guess that's
basically it in solid form.
____________________________________________________________________________________
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ok, enough of you dudes seem to be familiar with
the
stuff, how does it compare with Brasso?
One of my hobbies is repairing and rebuilding brass
musical wind
instruments (trumpets, horns, tubas, etc.)--and the
mention of Brasso
causes me to cringe. Basically it's an abrasive in
a mixture of
stoddard solvent and ammonia. The problem is that
the abrasive is
far to aggressive. Sometimes I'll get old horns
that have had the
engraving almost obliterated by overuse of Brasso.
Consider that the gold plating on an edge connector
is only a few
microns thick and that gold is much softer than
brass.
On old PCBs, I've had pretty good success with just
a toothbrush and
a mild detergent in warm water. Follow up with a
deionized water
rinse followed by ethyl alcohol as a drier. In
severe cases, a
buffing compound, such as rouge, applied with a
cotton buff on a
Dremel should clean things right up.
3:41 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
On 28 Nov 2006 at 14:27, Chris M wrote:
OT - would the effect of Brasso differ much from
"jeweler's rouge", which I'm told is essentially rust
and a lite oil? I've never actually seen it, not sure
if it came as a solid or liquid (or is even still
available). Sears sells these sticks nowadays, one of
them being basically rust colored, so I guess that's
basically it in solid form.
Actually a wax and ferric oxide. Very gentle--I can polish an
instrument having only 6-9 microns of silver plate to a brilliant
mirror-like shine using a 3 hp buffer using 8" cotton wheels charged
with rouge without damaging the instrument. Abuse, of course, is
possible with any power treatment.
If the thought of rouge offends your sensibilities, try a mixture of
whiting (precipitated chalk) and alcohol and a soft cotton rag. I've
seen that used on gold-washed instruments (whose gold coating is so
thin as to be transparent) to good effect.
But stay away from Brasso. If you must, use something like
Simichrome or Hagerty's Silver polish. All leave behind a bit of wax
as a tarnish retardant.
Cheers,
Chuck
4:04 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
--- Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
Actually a wax and ferric oxide. Very gentle--I can
polish an
instrument having only 6-9 microns of silver plate
to a brilliant
mirror-like shine using a 3 hp buffer using 8"
cotton wheels charged
with rouge without damaging the instrument. Abuse,
of course, is
possible with any power treatment.
Ok, rust and wax then :D. So do you buy jeweler's
rouge these days, in anything other then the sticks
you get at Sears (a whole package of sticks that come
in different colors, presumably for difference degrees
of courseness).
But stay away from Brasso. If you must, use
something like
Simichrome or Hagerty's Silver polish. All leave
behind a bit of wax
as a tarnish retardant.
I've used it to clean some heavily oxidized .064"
brass sheets. Worked fine for that application. I
don't see how anything that leaves behind a residue
can be a good thing though, especially with
electronics (and with machine tools too, where
dimensions are critical).
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4:33 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
On 28 Nov 2006 at 16:04, Chris M wrote:
Ok, rust and wax then :D. So do you buy
jeweler's
rouge these days, in anything other then the sticks
you get at Sears (a whole package of sticks that come
in different colors, presumably for difference degrees
of courseness).
I buy it in cartons of 21 2 lb. bars. Mine is manufactured by
Divine Bros.
Cheers,
Chuck
5:07 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Ok, rust and wax then :D. So do you buy
jeweler's
rouge these days, in anything other then the sticks
you get at Sears (a whole package of sticks that come
in different colors, presumably for difference degrees
of courseness).
I've never ordered any, but H.S.Walsh (a jewellery/watchmaking equipment
supplier) list many grades of rouge, along with other polishing compounds
like cerium oxide.
-tony
4:34 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
--- Jay West <jwest at classiccmp.org> wrote:
Chuck wrote....
Presumably the left over residues could be removed
easily I guess. Alcohol, or the slightest bit of paint thinner?
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But stay away from Brasso. If you must, use
something like
Simichrome or Hagerty's Silver polish. All
leave
behind a bit of wax
as a tarnish retardant.
Wax on the connectors. Hummmm 
4:58 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Chris M wrote:
--- Jay West <jwest at classiccmp.org> wrote:
I'd think the wax residue would serve to retard further corrosion.
Unless your connection is terribly loose, it shouldn't interfere with
the circuit at all.
Doc
Chuck wrote....
Presumably the left over residues could be removed
easily I guess. Alcohol, or the slightest bit of paint thinner? But stay away from Brasso. If you must, use
something like
Simichrome or Hagerty's Silver polish. All
leave behind a bit of wax
as a tarnish retardant.
Wax on the connectors. Hummmm
29 Nov
29 Nov
5:05 a.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
And thusly were the wise words spake by Chris M
--- Jay West <jwest at classiccmp.org> wrote:
Less is better! Why use something that is going to leave some
residue or remove too much and possibly destroy what you are
trying to clean? The ProGold and possibly DeOxit sound like
the best way to go, plus they are *made* for this job!
Cheers,
Bryan
Chuck wrote....
Presumably the left over residues could be removed
easily I guess. Alcohol, or the slightest bit of paint thinner?
But stay away from Brasso. If you must, use
something like
Simichrome or Hagerty's Silver polish. All
leave
behind a bit of wax
as a tarnish retardant.
Wax on the connectors. Hummmm
28 Nov
28 Nov
3:56 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Chris M wrote:
--- Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
Uhhh, no, not really. It is ferrous (ferric?) oxide, but it is to
rust what a cut diamond is to diamod-based industrial abrasive.
Jeweler's rouge is the final buff of high-finish jewelry. It takes a
lot of buffing to remove a noticeable amount of metal with it, even
using a bench buffer. What you can do with Brasso in minutes would take
weeks with rouge, using the same type of applicator.
Doc
On 28 Nov 2006 at 12:35, Chris M wrote:
OT - would the effect of Brasso differ much from
"jeweler's rouge", which I'm told is essentially rust
and a lite oil? I've never actually seen it, not sure
if it came as a solid or liquid (or is even still
available). Sears sells these sticks nowadays, one of
them being basically rust colored, so I guess that's
basically it in solid form. ok, enough of you dudes seem to be familiar with
the
stuff, how does it compare with Brasso?
One of my hobbies is repairing and rebuilding brass
musical wind
instruments (trumpets, horns, tubas, etc.)--and the
mention of Brasso
causes me to cringe. Basically it's an abrasive in
a mixture of
stoddard solvent and ammonia. The problem is that
the abrasive is
far to aggressive. Sometimes I'll get old horns
that have had the
engraving almost obliterated by overuse of Brasso.
Consider that the gold plating on an edge connector
is only a few
microns thick and that gold is much softer than
brass.
On old PCBs, I've had pretty good success with just
a toothbrush and
a mild detergent in warm water. Follow up with a
deionized water
rinse followed by ethyl alcohol as a drier. In
severe cases, a
buffing compound, such as rouge, applied with a
cotton buff on a
Dremel should clean things right up. 
2:41 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Rumor has it that Chris M may have mentioned these words:
How does a hummingbird compare to a turkey? ;-)
Even tho technically they're still both fowl, they're quite different
critters... same with Brasso vs. Caig [anything].
Brasso is *not* designed with electronics in mind, and could quite possibly
(probably?) damage anything of an electronic nature...
>>Caig
ProGold. Best thing out there.
ok, enough of you dudes seem to be familiar with the
stuff, how does it compare with Brasso? This presumes
some of you have used it, but it's essentially a
liquid polishing compound mainly intended for
furniture, brass bedposts and the like. It will
restore luster. I don't know if it could prove
detrimental to the varnish used on boards, or the
boards themselves...so I guess I should try it.
"It" being the Brasso or the Caig products? If you mean Brasso, don't!
I'd
guess it'll wear the gold off the edge contacts faster than you can say "Oh
Crap!"
Just curious if it was really anything different,
Oh yea, totally different critters altogether!
so as not to blow cash where it wasn't necessary.
It's necessary. "Right tool for the job" and all that.
And what about battery corrosion
Totally different issue (assuming the "green" isn't battery corrosion to
start with) - For that you'll want a mild acid (batteries are basic like Al
Kaline ;-P ) then clean with distilled water and *thoroughly* dried....
there are several threads on this in the archives that are just a search away.
Prost,
Roger "Merch" Merchberger
--
Roger "Merch" Merchberger | "Profile, don't speculate."
SysAdmin, Iceberg Computers | Daniel J. Bernstein
zmerch at 30below.com |
3:31 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
Roger Merchberger <zmerch-cctalk at 30below.com> wrote: Rumor has it that Chris M
may have mentioned these words:
How does a hummingbird compare to a turkey? ;-)
Even tho technically they're still both fowl, they're quite different
critters... same with Brasso vs. Caig [anything].
Brasso is *not* designed with electronics in mind, and could quite possibly
(probably?) damage anything of an electronic nature...
>>Caig
ProGold. Best thing out there.
ok, enough of you dudes seem to be familiar with the
stuff, how does it compare with Brasso? This presumes
some of you have used it, but it's essentially a
liquid polishing compound mainly intended for
furniture, brass bedposts and the like. It will
restore luster. I don't know if it could prove
detrimental to the varnish used on boards, or the
boards themselves...so I guess I should try it.
"It" being the Brasso or the Caig products? If you mean Brasso, don't!
I'd
guess it'll wear the gold off the edge contacts faster than you can say "Oh
Crap!"
Just curious if it was really anything different,
Oh yea, totally different critters altogether!
so as not to blow cash where it wasn't necessary.
It's necessary. "Right tool for the job" and all that.
And what about battery corrosion
Totally different issue (assuming the "green" isn't battery corrosion to
start with) - For that you'll want a mild acid (batteries are basic like Al
Kaline ;-P ) then clean with distilled water and *thoroughly* dried....
there are several threads on this in the archives that are just a search away.
Prost,
Roger "Merch" Merchberger
--
Roger "Merch" Merchberger | "Profile, don't speculate."
SysAdmin, Iceberg Computers | Daniel J. Bernstein
zmerch at 30below.com |
12:51 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
I had written....
>>Caig ProGold. Best thing out there.
Let me rephrase that.... Caig ProGold and a Toothbrush. Best thing out
there.
By the way... Caig ProGold seems very expensive for the quantity you get.
However, be aware that one very small spray can (about 4.5 inches tall and 2
inches diameter roughly) lasted me several years with fairly frequent use.
The stuff goes a long way - apply VERY sparingly. For edge card
cleaning/protecting, I can't imagine using the liquid. Get the spray can.
GooGone is another absolute requirement for me. Nothing like it to take off
labels, tape residue, adhesive gunk, etc. It's also good for taking off the
adhesive left behind from foam that had an adhesive backing but has now
disintigrated. Some GooGone, 10 minutes soaking, and a putty knife and it's
gone.
And lastly, one fairly new thing I will never be without for cleaning up old
systems - Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. They don't last long at all... one or two
uses. But MAN do they give good results. They can make the edges of a dark
orange pdp11 H960 filler panel cream colored again. And they can make a
cream colored pdp11 H960 filler panel edges white again. In some cases it
takes a lot of elbow grease, but they are great on nonsmooth surfaces. A
perfect use - taking magicmarker off sidepanels or frontpanels, terminals,
etc.
Jay
1:08 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
Jay West wrote:
And lastly, one fairly new thing I will never be
without for cleaning up
old systems - Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. They don't last long at all... one
or two uses. But MAN do they give good results. They can make the edges
of a dark orange pdp11 H960 filler panel cream colored again. And they
can make a cream colored pdp11 H960 filler panel edges white again. In
some cases it takes a lot of elbow grease, but they are great on
nonsmooth surfaces. A perfect use - taking magicmarker off sidepanels or
frontpanels, terminals, etc.
Hi Jay.
What do you use in conjunction with the Magic Eraser to accomplish this?
Alcohol, Mean Green or something along those lines?
Thanks!
Barry
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1:10 p.m.
New subject: removing green gook Re: Various problems
--- Jay West <jwest at classiccmp.org> wrote:
GooGone is another absolute requirement for me.
Nothing like it to take off
labels, tape residue, adhesive gunk, etc. It's also
good for taking off the
adhesive left behind from foam that had an adhesive
backing but has now
disintigrated. Some GooGone, 10 minutes soaking, and
a putty knife and it's
gone.
Afta is a product I believe you can still find at
Home Depot these days. It takes glues and residues
RIGHT OFF. No soaking required. A small can, eh about
a pint I guess, costs about $7, but it'll take you
far. I learned of it's use at a shop that used to
install carriage roofs on cars. They spray glue from
like a paint gun, and it would get all over the
upholstery and all. This stuff when applied with a rag
took it right off. May not be intended for extended
use on painted surfaces, but is pretty harmless to
most things if not overused.
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
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26 Nov
26 Nov
8:43 p.m.
I have never taken a keyboard apart yet, and
will no doubt need to someday. I probably won't
bother until a keyboard, or keys, starts failing.
Start with a PC keyboard, and just yank the keytops off.
EXCEPT THE SPACE BAR!! Leave it alone until you know what you are doing.
27 Nov
27 Nov
2:37 a.m.
Fred Cisin wrote:
... or if it's a Spectrum+, turn it upside-down and the keyboard will
dismantle itself for you :-)
But seriously, *most* keyboards do allow the keytops to be taken off, but some
don't. Generally I'll go in from the underside of an unfamiliar keyboard first
to check out it there are any gotchas (which is probably a good general tip -
dismantle the obvious stuff first as it often reveals details about how to
attack the more complex bits)
I do have bad memories of a PC keyboard once (I'm almost certain it was a
genuine IBM XT one) where I took the back off and many many little springs and
metal plates went flying all over the room. These days I'm a bit more cautious :-)
cheers
Jules
--
And if eight out of ten cats all prefer whiskas
Do the other two prefer Leslie Judd?
I have never
taken a keyboard apart yet, and
will no doubt need to someday. I probably won't
bother until a keyboard, or keys, starts failing.
Start with a PC keyboard, and just yank the keytops off.
EXCEPT THE SPACE BAR!! Leave it alone until you know what you are doing.
11:57 a.m.
I have never taken a keyboard apart yet, and
will no doubt need to someday. I probably won't
bother until a keyboard, or keys, starts failing.
Start with a PC keyboard, and just yank the keytops off.
EXCEPT THE SPACE BAR!! Leave it alone until you know what you are doing.
11:41 a.m.
Interestingly,
it shows a Vesatec V80. Exactly the
same thing has
happened to the platten roller in my V80 :-(, so
sometime I am going to
have to work out how to repair that,,,
oh dear :( >stuff
are dirty keyboards (under the keys),
Is this a real problem? I generally pull all the
keycaps (and clean those
with Maplin foam cleaner), then if possible take t rest of the keyboard
apart and clean all the bits spearately. Yes, it's
time-consuming (takes
an afternoon to do a keyboard), but it doesn't
involve making/obtaining
special parts, etc.
How easy is it to take the plastic (?) keys
off of a keyboard without damaging either
the keys or the contacts underneath? I assume, if they are taken off without
damage to them, they would simple clip back on?
I have never taken a keyboard apart yet, and
will no doubt need to someday. I probably won't
bother until a keyboard, or keys, starts failing.
I regard it as a bit of light releif when I'm restoring a machine. A lot
less brainwork than tracing a logic fault :-)
-tony
4:12 p.m.
On Nov 27, 2006, at 2:41 PM, Tony Duell wrote:
I feel exactly the same way with chassis/enclosure cleaning. Out
comes the Windex, alcohol, cotton swabs, Goo Gone...generally very
brainless work, and the results are something you can sit back and
admire.
Now, figuring out why the left motor driver of one of my TU56's
transports is acting anemic...that's a different matter entirely!
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire
Cape Coral, FL
I have never
taken a keyboard apart yet, and
will no doubt need to someday. I probably won't
bother until a keyboard, or keys, starts failing.
I regard it as a bit of light releif when I'm restoring a machine.
A lot
less brainwork than tracing a logic fault :-)
6598
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