Mine says Model Number: H7109-C on it. I think there is no such line. On the mainboard connector to the PSU, there are Red (3), Black (4), Orange (1), and Blue (1) wires. Red are all connected together, and all go to appx. 5 V when the system is on. Black are all connected together and to ground and are always at 0 V. Orange is one wire, and goes to appx. 12 V when the system is on. Blue is one wire, and goes to appx. 12 V. when the system is on. The red and black cross-connections are true on the mainboard and on the PSU. They are not all adjacent on the connector, which makes not much sense to me, but that's how it is. Red and Black on the mainboard connect to the corresponding colors on the Disk power connector. As for voltage: I really need a good DVM. Calibrated the 12V setting at work against a good 4-digit fluke DVM, so I think my reading of 12.1V for orange and -12.0 for blue is close. Did not have time to check at 5V, but afterward measured 3 Ray-o-Vac Renewal D cells in series at 4.7 V, so I may not be way far off. If so, my reading of 5.3 to 5.4 for the Red group is worrisome. This reading is consistent even at the Disk power connector. Anyone else have a good VOM, a working VLC, and 3 Renewal cells? Or just the VOM and either of the other two? I know more about it, now. Turned it on cold, it ran for a while, then failed, then started to try to boot again. Blew the hair dryer on it, it went into hard fail almost immediately and did not try to boot. Blew a fan on it, it went OK and actually ran far enough to give me a login prompt. In both cases I was trying to aim at the part of the mainboard near the power connector, but the system is so small I was probably affecting most of the mainboard and possibly a lot of the PSU as well. Near the power connector are two power-looking components (as in they have big leads, and in one case a heat-sink attach point, whereas nearly everything else is microscopic surface-mount stuff). One is a power-transistor looking thing with a heat-sink attach point (but no heat-sink) that has 3 pins and says LT1086CT 9151 The right leg is connected to 5.3 V (Red-wires). The center leg stays around 3.4 V, system running or failed. The left leg stays around 2.15 V, running or hung (as far as I can tell). The other is an 8-pin DIP that says M9124 LM393N QST Are these two part of a crowbar circuit, or reset circuit, or some such? Should I be able to see some clue about why the system hangs by looking at their pins? - Mark