I think the actual frame here is magnesium alloy, not aluminum.
Any attempt to weld this might be spectacularly bad idea.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Turnbull" <pete at dunnington.u-net.com>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: HP-2116A chassis (or repairing cast aluminum)
On Apr 16 2005, 16:33, Tim Riker wrote:
The HP-2116A in my haul yesterday has a broken
chassis:
http://rikers.org/gallery/hardware/20050416_120314
3) Thoughts on repairing the chassis? I could
bondo, superglue,
epoxy,
silversolder, etc. the pieces together, and add a
plate behind it
attached with countersunk screws. Would not be very visible once the
panels are put back. I have the two side panels and the bottom panel,
but no top panel. Thoughts on which would work best?
Glues aren't going to be effective at all, and you can't silver solder
aluminium.
It's possible to TIG weld aluminium and that might not be expensive if
you know someone who has a TIG welder (they're often found in small
engineering shops and car body shops). It's also possible to MIG weld
aluminium, but TIG is more common and tends to give better results in
my experience.
If you want to try it yourself, there are various forms of aluminium
solder, but most need special fluxes to cope with the oxide, they can
be tricky to use (depends on the grade of aluminium, which is rarely
pure, it's normally really an alloy), and not very strong. They also
need a lot of heat because aluminium conducts heat away extremely well
(this is also one of the problems with MIG welding it). Aluminium is
often soft-soldered with a stainless steel scratch brush to remove the
aluminium oxide under the solder pool, or done with an ultrasonic
soldering iron (expensive -- I once nearly bought a *cheap* one for
UKP300).
For hard-soldering, or fusion welding really, the best stuff is
Techno-Weld. It really works, and you can get it in the States as well
as in the UK:
http://www.techno-weld.com
http://www.techno-weld.co.uk
One of the basic "kits" of rods would have all you need; they also
include the scratch brush, abrading wire and instructions.
Or just rivet or bolt an L-shaped bracket on each side.
Whatever you do, be prepared to file a bit off the broken edges to make
sure it fits back together; whatever broke it probably stretched and
bent it too.
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York