7 Nov
2015
7 Nov
'15
5:36 p.m.
Hi all,
I've just emailed Rod Smallwood about a replacement panel, but in the
meantime, I have some chipping and curling at the edges of the panel paint
near the switches which seems to be getting worse and spreading.
Is there a way to seal the curling paint edges to prevent further damage?
perhaps clear nail polish?
thanks,
- Ian
--
Ian Finder
(206) 395-MIPS
ian.finder at gmail.com
9 Nov
9 Nov
noon
Depends on why it is peeling. My glass panel on the Straight 8 was
peeling. I suspect finger oil was what started it and once it started
peeling there was no good way to stop it. I scraped back to the color
change line and cleaned the glass and repainted. That was around 1985 and
it has stayed put so far.
Your best bet would be to do something similar. Mask it off and remove the
peeling paint back to the mask line. Prime the surface and then paint with
a color that is close. If it will be exposed to a UV source you might
consider overcoating with a UV block type of clear coat. I think you can
get clear coat in a non gloss if that is what you want.
You can try nail polish. The acetone in the polish might dissolve the
original paint. If possible try it first in a place that is not visible.
It could make things worse.
Good luck!
Doug
On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 6:36 PM, Ian Finder <ian.finder at gmail.com> wrote:
Hi all,
I've just emailed Rod Smallwood about a replacement panel, but in the
meantime, I have some chipping and curling at the edges of the panel paint
near the switches which seems to be getting worse and spreading.
Is there a way to seal the curling paint edges to prevent further damage?
perhaps clear nail polish?
thanks,
- Ian
--
Ian Finder
(206) 395-MIPS
ian.finder at gmail.com
--
Doug Ingraham
PDP-8 SN 1175
1:09 p.m.
* Doug Ingraham <dpi at dustyoldcomputers.com> [151109 15:00]:
Depends on why it is peeling. My glass panel on the
Straight 8 was
peeling. I suspect finger oil was what started it and once it started
peeling there was no good way to stop it. I scraped back to the color
change line and cleaned the glass and repainted. That was around 1985 and
it has stayed put so far.
Your best bet would be to do something similar. Mask it off and remove the
peeling paint back to the mask line. Prime the surface and then paint with
a color that is close. If it will be exposed to a UV source you might
consider overcoating with a UV block type of clear coat. I think you can
get clear coat in a non gloss if that is what you want.
You can try nail polish. The acetone in the polish might dissolve the
original paint. If possible try it first in a place that is not visible.
It could make things worse.
Good luck!
Doug
I could be wrong but I believe it's nail polish *remover* that contains
acetone (unless you get one specifically without acetone.)
I think nail polish has ethyl acetate?
I've seen pinball restorers generally recommend Krylon Triple Thick
Clear Glaze and Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear. (Check out
http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#bg)
Temperature cycles are particularly hard on pinball glass (hot/cold
cycles because the paint and glass expand and contract at different
rates.)
Pinball glass can get a lot of heating too from the lights.
I don't know how much of an issue that is with a straight 8 or 8E but
something to keep in mind.
Todd
3:04 p.m.
Hi
As you all know all my experience is with new reproductions rather
than old panels.
I don't expect
I have however seen a lot of pictures of peeling panels.
There are two possible ways a panel could have been made.
1. Holes first - screen print second
2. Screen Print first holes second.
In case 2 above you would be cutting the ink layer and exposing the edge
to attack.
Forty some odd years ago paints and inks would be have been made
differently to today.
Peeling would indicate the bond between the ink and the surface to which
it was applied has broken down.
Transparent film might help but it does nothing for the underlying problem.
I think some kind of penetrating liquid that reestablishes the ink/paint
to plastic adhesion would work.
We have many examples of plastics and polymers degrading with time:
Blue rot in DEC Monitors
Feet on cases turning to a black goo
Bump stops in hard drives
So I'm not surprised we get problems with old panels.
Rod Smallwood
On 09/11/15 21:09, Todd Goodman wrote:
* Doug Ingraham <dpi at dustyoldcomputers.com>
[151109 15:00]:
Depends on why it is peeling. My glass panel on
the Straight 8 was
peeling. I suspect finger oil was what started it and once it started
peeling there was no good way to stop it. I scraped back to the color
change line and cleaned the glass and repainted. That was around 1985 and
it has stayed put so far.
Your best bet would be to do something similar. Mask it off and remove the
peeling paint back to the mask line. Prime the surface and then paint with
a color that is close. If it will be exposed to a UV source you might
consider overcoating with a UV block type of clear coat. I think you can
get clear coat in a non gloss if that is what you want.
You can try nail polish. The acetone in the polish might dissolve the
original paint. If possible try it first in a place that is not visible.
It could make things worse.
Good luck!
Doug
I could be wrong but I believe it's nail polish *remover* that contains
acetone (unless you get one specifically without acetone.)
I think nail polish has ethyl acetate?
I've seen pinball restorers generally recommend Krylon Triple Thick
Clear Glaze and Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear. (Check out
http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#bg)
Temperature cycles are particularly hard on pinball glass (hot/cold
cycles because the paint and glass expand and contract at different
rates.)
Pinball glass can get a lot of heating too from the lights.
I don't know how much of an issue that is with a straight 8 or 8E but
something to keep in mind.
Todd 
3:26 p.m.
The cause of my panel chipping is very much finger contact at the edge of the cut panel.
There is the decay starting at the edge above all the switches and it is worse above the
"deposit" switch.
The rest of the panel other than these edges seems properly intact, but I am worried about
sealing off the flakey edges so environmental humidity, etc doesn't continue to
permeate through the fragmented edges of the paint.
I don't understand why the operator felt the need to get their oily paws all over the
panel when toggling, the edge of the switch is sufficient, but that is spilled milk. ;)
- Ian
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 9, 2015, at 15:11, Al Kossow <aek at
bitsavers.org> wrote:
On 11/9/15 3:04 PM, rod wrote:
2. Screen Print first holes second.
That was clearly the case on the panel that I sent scans of to you
and I mentioned that they had milled off some of the white lines around
the cutouts for the paddle switches.
10 Nov
10 Nov
1:14 a.m.
Hi Al
Thanks for the order - please remind me of your exact requirement
Needless to say this is an issue I am all too aware of.
This time round as per my updates we are going for a matte finish.
My silk screen girls are deciding at which stage to put the matting
agent on.
They also think it might well improve even the latest inks when it comes
to bonding.
Screening is quite robust but if you go at it with something sharp, you
can scratch it.
My my sample (old and damaged) panel has left the us and I'll track it
Regards
Rod
On 09/11/15 23:11, Al Kossow wrote:
On 11/9/15 3:04 PM, rod wrote:
2. Screen Print first holes second.
That was clearly the case on the panel that I sent scans of to you
and I mentioned that they had milled off some of the white lines around
the cutouts for the paddle switches.
3330
days inactive
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6 comments
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participants (5)
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aek＠bitsavers.org -
dpi＠dustyoldcomputers.com -
ian.finder＠gmail.com -
rodsmallwood52＠btinternet.com -
tsg＠bonedaddy.net