In other words replave most of the electronics in
the printer until
the fault appears to go way. Without knowing what as actually
fialed, without knowing why it was cured,
And this is suypposed to be a sensible method of
fixing soemthing???
For the intended target audience, for their tradeoffs? Yes, actually,
it is. They are mostly service-orgnaization staff, many of them
comparatively poorly trained, and are - or at least should be -
optimizing not for least parts replaced or some such, but for least
time until the customer has a working printer again.
No, I think you misunderstood me. I am not compleining that the field
servoid replaces the complete board. Solderign a PQFP package at the
customer site is perhaps not a good idea :-).
My complaint is that IMHO you should do some simple tests to attempt to
find the DFRU that is causign the problem before replacing parts. My
guess is (based on my sxperience with other Canon laser printer engines)
you don't ened a lot of test ger to do this. A multimeter and perhaps a
logic probe will do. I am sugggesting things like measurign al lthe PSU
output votlages (and in the process checking that the cover interlock
swithc is closing, there are 2 24V lines, one after siad switc).
For example, during the sartup sequence I am pretty sure it should turn
the main motor on. Puting a logic probe on the appropriate pin of the
connector will indicate whether it is trying to do this. If is, and the
moter doesn't run (and the power lines are also present at the motor unit
connecotr,, checked with a DMM), then OK, I will accept the field repair
is to replce the motor/drive rboard assembly. But if the DC cotnrolelr
isn't tryign to start the motor, then there is little point in replacing
the motor at that stage (it might still be fualty, but there is no reason
to suspect it)
Or to give another example. My father's last car had far too much
electronics for my taste. I didn't expect the workshop manual to contain
scheamtics of all the ECUs, and it didn't. What it did contain wa a
complete diagram fo the wiring between the ECUs, sensors, actuators, etc.
And a procedure to follow if soemthing was wrong. For ecample, if the
diagnostic error code meant was that the coolant temperature sesor was
giving bogus readigns, then the procedure is somehting like :
1) Measure the resistae between a couple of pins on the engine ECU
conencotr. If it's the corredft vaule for the current tempeartur, then
change the ECU [Presuambly the signal conditioning cirucits or the ADC
has failed).
2) If the resistanve is incorrect, uplug the connectr from the coolant
thermistor, and check the resistance betwene the pins on the latter. If
that's bad, then chagne the thermistor
3) If the thermistor is good, then check the wiring, opens, shorts, etc.
And _that_ is the sort of thing I expect in a printer field manual. It's
not what i would really like, but it's what I would hope for.
You have pointed out often enough that the underlying fault is not
necessarily in the component (FSVO "component") whose replacement makes
the symptom go away. As true as this is, the fault usually _is_ there,
especially when "component" is an FRU as large as it is in most such
Not so. I believe you have suggested your fault may well be a defective
connector somewhere. If you replace all the FRUs suggested, then the
rpinter is likely to sork, becuase distrubing a defective conencotr often
gets it to make contact again. But you ahve not cured the fualt. It may
well come back again.
I feel it is better to know where the fault is, so you know you've cured
it. That way it stays cured. Otherwise you may find the printer works for
a few days, and then fails again.
manuals. I conjecture, and the ubiquity of such
service manuals seems
to agree, that the additional downtime, training, and equipment that
would be necessary to routinely do tony-style repairs on customer
printers would more than outweigh the resulting savings (parts,
mostly, at least for immediate-term savings).
Not everybody shares your tradeoffs, especially since the manual was
written when the FRUs in question were still being manufactured, as
compared to now when they're tending towards unobtainium.
The ideal manuals (and I have seen such) cover all levels of repair. That
is, they have a faultfinding chart to isolate an FRU (PCB, etc) using
only sikple test gear (often jsut a multimeter) .And then a section for
when for wahtever reason you can't get the FRU, or don;'t want to replacv
eit. Often jsut scheamtics and pinout diagrams. If you don;t understnad
the latter, or don't want to take the time, then fine, buy the FRU. If
you're working on the deviec 20 years later, or you have a well stocked
junk box, and a logic analuyser and 'scope on the bench, you ahve the
info to do that kind of reparir too.
-tony