6 Nov
2004
6 Nov
'04
5:39 a.m.
I am currently in the process of replacing my Amiga 2000's battery... On the
one I was finally able to remove there *seems* to be some damage to the
circuit board that was underneath and nearing the 68000. Instead of the
circuits being a nice green colour, it is now black. Is there any way to
tell if this is only a colour change? Also, it looks like some of the
copper has been eaten away around where the negative part of the battery
was soldered to the motherboard.
I have cleaned all of the white crap off with vinegar and a toothbrush. I
then used "Precision Electronics Cleaner" from RS which is _supposed_ to
leave no residue.
Also, how are the solder tabs affixed to the battery? The replacement
batteries I got don't have any.
Cheers,
Bryan Pope
6 Nov
6 Nov
5:55 a.m.
I am currently in the process of replacing my Amiga 2000's battery... On
the
one I was finally able to remove there *seems* to be some damage to the
circuit board that was underneath and nearing the 68000. Instead of the
circuits being a nice green colour, it is now black. Is there any way to
tell if this is only a colour change? Also, it looks like some of the
copper has been eaten away around where the negative part of the battery
was soldered to the motherboard.
sounds like the battery acid leaked out and started eating away. Only way
to know if damage has been done is to see if the board still works (boots)
or not. You can't really clean it off without doing some damage to the
traces.
I have cleaned all of the white crap off with vinegar and a toothbrush. I
then used "Precision Electronics Cleaner" from RS which is _supposed_ to
leave no residue.
Also, how are the solder tabs affixed to the battery? The replacement
batteries I got don't have any.
The tabe are usually spot welded on. Most cells are designed to go into
some sort of holder that has contacts. You might have to rig up a battery
with pigtail leads and attach that to the mobo, with the battery stuck on
somewhere with RTV or other adhesive.
Gary Hildebrand
6:20 a.m.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ghldbrd(a)ccp.com>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2004 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: Replacing an A2000 battery
I
Some people get a common coin type battery and solder a battery holder to
where the old one was. Its better to replace the battery with a type that
will not leak or you will have to do this again in 5-10 years.
I just removed the battery in my A2000 and have yet to put another in since
I don't care about the time function.
>
>
> I am currently in the process of replacing my Amiga 2000's battery...
On
> the
> one I was finally able to remove there *seems* to be some damage to the
> circuit board that was underneath and nearing the 68000. Instead of the
> circuits being a nice green colour, it is now black. Is there any way
to
tell if this
is only a colour change? Also, it looks like some of the
copper has been eaten away around where the negative part of the battery
was soldered to the motherboard.
sounds like the battery acid leaked out and started eating away. Only way
to know if damage has been done is to see if the board still works (boots)
or not. You can't really clean it off without doing some damage to the
traces.
>
> I have cleaned all of the white crap off with vinegar and a toothbrush. then used
"Precision Electronics Cleaner" from RS which is _supposed_ to
leave no residue.
Also, how are the solder tabs affixed to the battery? The replacement
batteries I got don't have any.
The tabe are usually spot welded on. Most cells are designed to go into
some sort of holder that has contacts. You might have to rig up a battery
with pigtail leads and attach that to the mobo, with the battery stuck on
somewhere with RTV or other adhesive.
Gary Hildebrand
1:25 p.m.
And thusly ghldbrd(a)ccp.com spake:
This one doesn't boot up. :( It starts up for a little bit, then the power
light flashes a # of times. I have googled for POST error messages but
could not find out what this meant.
Also, did I read somewhere earlier that soldering to a battery is a VBT?
(Very Bad Thing) ;)
Thanks!,
Bryan Pope
I am currently in the process of replacing my Amiga 2000's battery... On
the
one I was finally able to remove there *seems* to be some damage to the
circuit board that was underneath and nearing the 68000. Instead of the
circuits being a nice green colour, it is now black. Is there any way to
tell if this is only a colour change? Also, it looks like some of the
copper has been eaten away around where the negative part of the battery
was soldered to the motherboard.
sounds like the battery acid leaked out and started eating away. Only way
to know if damage has been done is to see if the board still works (boots)
or not. You can't really clean it off without doing some damage to the
traces.
I have cleaned all of the white crap off with vinegar and a toothbrush. I
then used "Precision Electronics Cleaner" from RS which is _supposed_ to
leave no residue.
Also, how are the solder tabs affixed to the battery? The replacement
batteries I got don't have any.
The tabe are usually spot welded on. Most cells are designed to go into
some sort of holder that has contacts. You might have to rig up a battery
with pigtail leads and attach that to the mobo, with the battery stuck on
somewhere with RTV or other adhesive.
3:53 p.m.
Also, did I read somewhere earlier that soldering to a
battery is a VBT?
(Very Bad Thing) ;)
I've also heard that, but I don't know the exact reason for it. I have
soldered leads directly to lithium coin type memory backup batteries before
without any problems. Usually I fit a battery holder, but sometimes when I
don't have one on hand I've taken the lazy/easy option.
4:08 p.m.
On Sun, 7 Nov 2004, Dr. Ido wrote:
The reason is that when soldering on the wires tabs etc, the Lithium cell may
be heated enough to explode in your face = Very Bad Thing
Peter Wallace
Also, did I
read somewhere earlier that soldering to a battery is a VBT?
(Very Bad Thing) ;)
I've also heard that, but I don't know the exact reason for it. I have
soldered leads directly to lithium coin type memory backup batteries before
without any problems. Usually I fit a battery holder, but sometimes when I
don't have one on hand I've taken the lazy/easy option.
7 Nov
7 Nov
2 a.m.
And thusly Peter C. Wallace spake:
On Sun, 7 Nov 2004, Dr. Ido wrote:
The reason is that when soldering on the wires tabs etc, the Lithium cell may
be heated enough to explode in your face = Very Bad Thing
Will the same thing happen with a NiCad battery?
Cheers,
Bryan Pope
Also, did
I read somewhere earlier that soldering to a battery is a VBT?
(Very Bad Thing) ;)
I've also heard that, but I don't know the exact reason for it. I have
soldered leads directly to lithium coin type memory backup batteries before
without any problems. Usually I fit a battery holder, but sometimes when I
don't have one on hand I've taken the lazy/easy option.
3:20 a.m.
On Sun, 7 Nov 2004, Bryan Pope wrote:
And thusly Peter C. Wallace spake:
Much less likely due to the reactivity of battery chemistry.
Still, overheating batteries is never a good thing (spot welding is very fast
with only localized heating)
If I had to solder tabs on a Nicad, I'd do it with a large hot iron so the
total soldering time is in the second or two range.
On Sun, 7 Nov 2004, Dr. Ido wrote:
The reason is that when soldering on the wires tabs etc, the Lithium cell may
be heated enough to explode in your face = Very Bad Thing
Will the same thing happen with a NiCad battery? Also, did
I read somewhere earlier that soldering to a battery is a VBT?
(Very Bad Thing) ;)
I've also heard that, but I don't know the exact reason for it. I have
soldered leads directly to lithium coin type memory backup batteries before
without any problems. Usually I fit a battery holder, but sometimes when I
don't have one on hand I've taken the lazy/easy option.
Cheers,
Bryan Pope
Peter Wallace
8 Nov
8 Nov
7:47 a.m.
On Sun, 7 Nov 2004, Bryan Pope wrote:
This will become one of those 'how many angels can dance on
the head of a pin?' threads if we don't watch out...
Yes and no.
At one extreme, if you get any cell hot enough, it will leak,
dry out, corrode, burst, etc.
At the other, if the cell has enough mass, or the
tab/button/metal end/etc is thermally isolated enough from the
chemical guts, it'll be just fine.
If you are proficient with a soldering iron, the metal is
cooperative (eg. solder wets it easily), it has a long welded
tab (some do), are very careful (eg. pre-wet solder on the
cell end; tin light wire properly; heat cell end to flow the
two together) you can make it work just fine.
If you're not skilled with a soldering iron and don't have a
seat-of-the-pants feel for what's going on, you should probably
not do it. It's skills-based judgement calls.
Big fat cells, good chance. Tiny, flat, watch cells, bad
chance. YMMV.
The reason is
that when soldering on the wires tabs etc, the Lithium cell may
be heated enough to explode in your face = Very Bad Thing
Will the same thing happen with a NiCad battery? 
8:51 a.m.
Bryan Pope wrote:
Also, how are the solder tabs affixed to the battery?
The replacement
batteries I got don't have any.
http://www.compuquick-amigadirect.com/cgi-bin/shop/shop.cgi?cart_id=5377926…
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4598&item=51…
This guy's not the fastest shipper on eBay, but his stuff is always
as represented.
There are a couple of articles on aminet describing the LiIon
conversion, which would be my choice of repair options.
Doc
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