On Thu, 25 Feb 2016, Jay West wrote: Asking a locksmith to cut a key from information is called "code cutting". Some municipalities have restrictions on it, ranging from no restrictions to outright ban, or requiring the locksmith to keep on file the identity of who requested a key, and/or "proof" of ownership of the lock (physically bringing it in, letter on company letterhead, etc.) The information for code cutting is straight-forward. Which blank. Usually done by pre-made blanks, in specific sizes and milling. A machinist certaily COULD mill a new blank, or modify a thicker one, but I don't know anybody who does that, since even "restricted" keyblanks are not generally hard to come by. Spacing. How far each cut is from the stop (less commonly (such as Best) indexed blank. Depth. How deep each cut is. Most will have 7 to 10 different depths that are used, identified by a digit that can then be looked up in manufacturer's "depth and spacingg" database (readily available to locksmiths) to find how deep the cut should be. Some number from 0, some from 1 For example: Schlage SC1 7 4 1 3 7 would be a Schlage SC1 blank, with cuts of Schlage standard #7 depth, #4 depth, #1 depth, #3 depth, #7 depth SOME manufacturers, such as Schlage, will stamp the depth numbers on the bow of the key. Some don't. Some obfuscate the numbers, for example, in the 1970s, Honda would reverse the sequence, and a 75132 would be a key with depths of 2 3 1 5 7 (almost as obscure as ROT-13!) Many companies stamp a semi-unique number that has no algorithmic relationship to the depths, but instead is used to look up the depths in a "Code Book" (MOST of which are readily available to locksmiths). For example, XX2065 does not tell the cuts, BUT, looking it up in the appropriate code book tells the cuts (1353757) Code books, either dead-tree or digital are ogften available on eBay. SOME times, the number is stamped on the lock. For example, the key code number for one car is on a paper sticker inside the glove compartment (Datsun 300SX), on another, it is stamped on the side of the lock cylinder inside the passenger side door. An image of sufficient clarity to be able to identify which blank, and to determine WHICH depths of the cuts is enough to make a key. Rememeber, you don't need to MEASURE from the picture, just enough to decide whether it is a 3 cut or a 4 cut. Back when I was working on cars, customers would often drop off a car before opening time, and forget to leave the key, or lock it in the car. Rather than open the car without the key (pretty easy) to retrieve the key or pick the ignition lock, I could call the customer and have them read the number on their other key (or see the key sitting on the seat and read the number through the window!), and simply cut a new key for them. Not only would it sive time, it would usually fit better than their currently WORN key. A competent locksmith can tell what blank, and the list of cuts from a quick glance at a key. Therefore, the database should identify the key blank, the key number (if there is one), and the cuts of the keys (in case code-book is not readily available). If depth and spacing data for that company and blank are not readily available, then it should also list the physical depth of each cut, and the space/distance from the stop for each cut. I'm sure that there are some machines and some companies where each key/lock is different, either originally or rekeyed as a security upgrade. But most computers go their whole lives with whatever default key was initially installed. By analogy: what is the default password? How many machines use XX2247? Code cutting calls for a calibrated key cutting machine. There is one that is made out a Unimat, and there are squeeze handle hand held ones, used for automotive keys. OR a key duplicator, plus a key with the right spacing, and a key that has a 1 cut, a key that has a 2 cut, a key with a 3 cut, etc. Called a "set of depth and space keys". Some modern cars use a "laser-cut" key. There ain't no laser. It's just a side-cutting mill with a pantograph.