On Friday 06 February 2009, Christian Corti wrote:
On Fri, 6 Feb 2009, Patrick Finnegan wrote:
I'm sure that De's specs were for a 120V
circuit. With a 200-240V
I know, but the majority of the world uses 230V (+/- 10%), and he
didn't mention that he's part of the minority ;-))
Nor did you mention that you're in the majority, but I was able to
figure it out with a little deductive guesswork. :)
give me an
answer to that? Are you allowed to run a "16 amp"
circuit with 16 amps of continuous load? (Not surprising though I
guess, at
Yes, of course, the outlets, the plugs and the circuit breaker are
rated for 16 amps. You can have less (e.g. 10 amps) or more (e.g. 32
amps) if it's feasible (which a good certified electrician can find
out).
Well, here everything is rated for "20 amps" and labelled as such, but
there's a difference between continuous load (eg, lights or appliances
that are continuously on, such as emergency lighting, or computers in
some cases), and intermittent load (eg, a vacuum cleaner, kitchen
appliances, etc). You're allowed to use the full rating for
intermittent loads, but only 80% of the rating for continuous loads.
The theory here is that an intermittent load will have enough off time
to keep the wires from heating up as much.
least one
electrician at work here insists that you are allowed to
draw 100% of the fuse/breaker rating continuously, though I've
looked it up and it's definitely not allowed by code.)
It doesn't make any sense having a rating on a fuse and then disallow
it by code. A fuse is a critical safety element, and it is designed
to trip when the current exceeds the rating. If drawing a certain
amount of current without tripping the fuse is outside the
specifications of the electric installation, then that's a faulty and
highly dangerous installation.
Like I said above, there's different kinds of loads. If you have a
device that draws 25 amps, but only on 1/2 of the AC cycles (eg,
because it uses a half-wave rectifier), it should be able to be safely
run off of a 20 amp circuit.
Also, most fuses don't instantly pop when the current through them
exceeds their rated value, and there's special types of fuses
(motor/time delay) that are designed to handle a much higher current
than their nameplate rating for a short amount of time. Circuit
breakers are generally even more like this, containing an element to
instantly trip over a certain value (the "short circuit" threshold),
and a time-delay element that trips the breaker when it heats up
enough.
I guess the best way to describe them is as a "leaky integrator", with a
trip point measured in amp-seconds. Things like the 80% rule that I
mentioned are there so that electricians have a guideline for what size
circuit to put in, without having to do a lot of high-level math (in
effect modelling the circuit characteristics) to figure out what rating
the circuit needs.
than as an
actual RA81. :( At least RA82s in my experience haven't
had the same problems that RA81s had.
Ehm, well, actually they *are* RA82s in SA482 cabinets (and not RA81s
as I've thought). I just had a look at the offer again.
They probably are worthwhile to pick up, then. I'm surprised that a
dealer hasn't gotten to them by now... I know at least one dealer on
this list (but in the "wrong" country for the offer :) that was
interested in RA82s at some point within the past year or two.
Pat
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