If this thing is at all similar th ethe SONY GDM-1950, then even though that's one of the easiest on the planet to adapt from what it is to what you want for a PC, it's still a pain in the *SS. What's more it works only in high-res mode, not in text and unless you acquire one of several VGA cards unattractively priced at about $150 last time I looked, for the cheapest and $750 (ovbiously obsolete pricing) for the costliest, you get something that "sorta" works, though it's utterly breathtaking when it does work. I've got a similar monitor sitting in the basement, having ignored it once I went through the usual effort with a friend. For "trial" purposes, I'd recommend you find the composite-sync pin on the "application" connector normally located near the top edge of your vga card. If you solder about a 500-ohm resistor give or take 20%, from the comp-sync to the green output on your vga card, you can easily see what's going on with your monitor => display adapter combination in order to determine whether you can use it as a high-res only monitor. I don't recommend this for long-term use. It's just to see whether your display adapter will generate a useable sync pattern. If this scheme works, perhaps with a little off-center display, then go ahead and make the monitor mod's, and maybe contact me for a "real" circuit with which to impose sync on green for use on a typical SVGA adapter. I've used this several times with astonishingly good results. If your monitor doesn't AC-couple its inputs you may find the display biased toward the green somewhat. Whether you adjust this out and live with the resistor approach is up to you. Another easy thing to do in the event your monitor doesn't like the sync polarity your adapter likes to put out is to build a little circuit into the monitor consisting of an XOR gate pack (74HCT136 if you want open drains, else 74HCT86) through which you run the sync inputs once they've arrived at your monitor (If you have separate sync inputs on the monitor) and control the sense of their outputs with a jumper which you set either to +5 or GND, either of which you can fish up from the monitor somewhere, or steal from the sync signal. Since the sync line is terminated at the monitor, probably to ground through 75 ohms, you may need more power than you can steal to drive the sync signals. If for some reason you can't get +5 at the monitor, you build a little box and jumper the +5 line on the display adapter to an unused pin on the DE15. You then build an external box with your adpater and 5 BNC's on it and go from there. As you can see, there's ample opportunity for lots of work. When you're done, however, you still have a fixed-frequency monitor, though a nice one, and need another monitor and an A/B switch box to switch the signal to the multisync monitor for text and other uses. Like I said . . . it's a pain in the gluteus maximus. A pretty decent 20" Sylvania multisync monitor with really bright and sharp, as well as linear, image costs $279 at Costco. Dick ----- Original Message ----- From: Pete Turnbull <pete(a)dunnington.u-net.com> To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org> Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 5:37 PM Subject: Re: Back to the A1097C monitor again in a screen