1 Nov
1997
1 Nov
'97
3:42 p.m.
Hi folks. I picked up a Tandy Model 100 laptop computer from a local
thrift store a few days ago, for about $9. So far so good, but it doesn't
have any ROM's in it (both sockets on the bottom of the machine are empty)
When I switch it on, then off , the "Low Battery" light flickers, but
that's all (the LCD stays blank)
So, are these ROMS (which I think I need) something I can still order from
Tandy (without paying an arm and a leg)?
Thanks in advance (Oh, and I saw, but didn't buy, an Amiga Joyboard . . .)
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Charles P. Hobbs __ __ ____ ___ ___ ____
transit(a)primenet.com /__)/__) / / / / /_ /\ / /_ /
/ / \ / / / / /__ / \/ /___ /
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1 Nov
1 Nov
4:35 p.m.
Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
Hi folks. I picked up a Tandy Model 100 laptop
computer from a local
thrift store a few days ago, for about $9. So far so good, but it doesn't
have any ROM's in it (both sockets on the bottom of the machine are empty)
When I switch it on, then off , the "Low Battery" light flickers, but
that's all (the LCD stays blank)
So, are these ROMS (which I think I need) something I can still order from
Tandy (without paying an arm and a leg)?
The two sockets on the bottom of the machine can be empty and the machine
should still work. One of the sockets is for additional program ROMs while
the second 40 pin (I think) socket is used to connect to peripherals. I
have one model 100 that has no display when I turn it on, but after waiting
a few minutes, the display begins to show. I am assuming you have tried
both types of reset: 1) the reset button on the back, and 2) holding
shift/pause while turning the machine on. Does the display show anything
when the contrast knob is turned? In any case, no display is not a good
sign!
6:44 p.m.
On Sat, 1 Nov 1997, Marvin wrote:
Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
> Hi folks. I picked up a Tandy Model 100 laptop computer from a local
> thrift store a few days ago, for about $9. So far so good, but it doesn't
> have any ROM's in it (both sockets on the bottom of the machine are empty)
The two sockets on the bottom of the machine can be empty and the machine
should still work. One of the sockets is for additional program ROMs while
the second 40 pin (I think) socket is used to connect to peripherals. I
have one model 100 that has no display when I turn it on, but after waiting
a few minutes, the display begins to show.
I haven't tried that. How long does that take?
I am assuming you have tried
both types of reset: 1) the reset button on the back, and 2) holding
shift/pause while turning the machine on.
I tried the reset button, I didn't know anything about shift/pause. What
does that do?
Does the display show anything
when the contrast knob is turned?
The contrast knob doesn't do anything . . .
7:51 p.m.
Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
It takes a couple of minutes in the case of my machine. However, it is
still a defective motherboard.
Darned if I know :). It is another type of reset for the machine but I
haven't taken the time to read the manual to find out what it actually does.
Another thing I did when troubleshooting several of them was to pull out the
RAM chips (power off of course) and then power it up again. Turned out one
of the machines had a bad RAM chip and that prevented it from booting up.
There are four RAM sockets and the first one was always soldered in with the
machines I looked at. The rest were socketed.
have one model
100 that has no display when I turn it on, but after
waiting
a few minutes, the display begins to show.
I haven't tried that. How long does that take? I am assuming
you have tried
both types of reset: 1) the reset button on the back, and 2) holding
shift/pause while turning the machine on.
I tried the reset button, I didn't know anything about shift/pause. What
does that do? Does the
display show anything
when the contrast knob is turned?
The contrast knob doesn't do anything . . . 
2 Nov
2 Nov
6:40 a.m.
Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
On Sat, 1 Nov 1997, Marvin wrote:
Take th emachine apart and clean the LCD connections to the
motherboard. If the batteries have ever leaked, this connection is very
prone to corrosion.
James
Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
> Hi folks. I picked up a Tandy Model 100 laptop computer from a
local
> thrift store a few days ago, for about $9.
So far so good, but it
doesn't
> have any ROM's in it (both sockets on
the bottom of the machine
are empty)
The two sockets on the bottom of the machine can be empty and the
machine
should still work. One of the sockets is for
additional program
ROMs while
the second 40 pin (I think) socket is used to
connect to
peripherals. I
have one model 100 that has no display when I
turn it on, but after
waiting
a few minutes, the display begins to show.
I haven't tried that. How long does that take?
I am assuming you have tried
both types of reset: 1) the reset button on the back, and 2) holding
shift/pause while turning the machine on.
I tried the reset button, I didn't know anything about shift/pause.
What
does that do?
Does the display show anything
when the contrast knob is turned?
The contrast knob doesn't do anything . . .
3 Nov
3 Nov
9:10 p.m.
On Sat, 1 Nov 1997, Marvin wrote:
Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
> Hi folks. I picked up a Tandy Model 100 laptop computer from a local
> thrift store a few days ago, for about $9. So far so good, but it doesn't
>
> When I switch it on, then off , the "Low Battery" light flickers, but
> that's all (the LCD stays blank)
I am assuming you have tried
both types of reset: 1) the reset button on the back, and 2) holding
shift/pause while turning the machine on. Does the display show anything
when the contrast knob is turned? In any case, no display is not a good
sign!
I held down the reset button, no joy.
Then, I held down shift/pause while turning the machine on. A little
more promising (it beeped the first time I did it, then just clicked a
bit every subsequent time).
Being a little bold, I pressed enter, then tried entering the "BEEP"
basic command (Remember now, no action from the LCD . . .) Well, mirabile
dictu, the computer beeped! Then I tried typing in a BASIC program beeping
in a for-next loop, and it worked! (There's a more substantial SOUND
command, that allows the user to select the frequency and even play
music, but I forget the syntax).
So, I have a working computer, but with a non-working LCD. . .I'll need to
open it up and find out what's going on. Unfortunately, I've had little
success in opening the machine--I removed all four screws from the bottom,
but I still can't take the two halves of the case apart. Anything I'm
missing here?
Thanks in advance!
11:23 p.m.
On Tue, 4 Nov 1997, Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
So, I have a working computer, but with a non-working
LCD. . .I'll need to
open it up and find out what's going on. Unfortunately, I've had little
success in opening the machine--I removed all four screws from the bottom,
but I still can't take the two halves of the case apart. Anything I'm
missing here?
The case is clipped together as well as screwed, and there are cables that
link the display and keyboard to the processor board.
You need to remove the 4 corner screws on the bottom (it sounds like
you've done this) and then pull the 2 parts of the case apart (fairly
hard), starting at the left hand side (the side with the BCR connector and
the modem switches). Then 'hinge' the 2 parts apart, taking care not to
damage the cables (26 way ribbon to the display, 2 bundles of wires to the
keyboard).
Display problems (assuming the rest of the machine works) tend to be
either the interconnecting cable/connectors or a loss of the -ve supply
rail. I have a technical manual (with schematics), and can look up the
fault tracing procedure for you.
Thanks in advance!
-tony
4 Nov
4 Nov
5:21 a.m.
Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
On Sat, 1 Nov 1997, Marvin wrote:
One you get the screw out you need to gently pry the two halves
apart. The top swings off to the right leaving the back of the LCD
visible.
James
Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
> Hi folks. I picked up a Tandy Model 100 laptop computer from a
local
> thrift store a few days ago, for about $9.
So far so good, but it
doesn't
>
> When I switch it on, then off , the "Low Battery" light flickers,
but
> that's all (the LCD stays blank)
I am assuming you have tried
both types of reset: 1) the reset button on the back, and 2) holding
shift/pause while turning the machine on. Does
the display show
anything
when the contrast knob is turned? In any case,
no display is not a
good
sign!
I held down the reset button, no joy.
Then, I held down shift/pause while turning the machine on. A little
more promising (it beeped the first time I did it, then just clicked a
bit every subsequent time).
Being a little bold, I pressed enter, then tried entering the "BEEP"
basic command (Remember now, no action from the LCD . . .) Well,
mirabile
dictu, the computer beeped! Then I tried typing in a BASIC program
beeping
in a for-next loop, and it worked! (There's a more substantial SOUND
command, that allows the user to select the frequency and even play
music, but I forget the syntax).
So, I have a working computer, but with a non-working LCD. . .I'll
need to
open it up and find out what's going on. Unfortunately, I've had
little
success in opening the machine--I removed all four screws from the
bottom,
but I still can't take the two halves of the case apart. Anything I'm
missing here?
Thanks in advance!
9:48 a.m.
On Tue, 4 Nov 1997, James L. Rice wrote:
Charles P. Hobbs wrote:
Done. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. (Now upgrading a
Mac 7500. . .that's a beast. Appledealerville for that puppy. But
I digress. . .)
First stop . . check the cable between the motherboard and LCD
for corrosion or other trouble. I'll let you all know how
that goes. . . .
So, I have a working computer, but with a non-working LCD. . .I'll
need to
open it up and find out what's going on. Unfortunately, I've had
little
success in opening the machine--I removed all four screws from the
bottom,
but I still can't take the two halves of the case apart. Anything I'm
missing here?
Thanks in advance!
One you get the screw out you need to gently pry the two halves
apart. The top swings off to the right leaving the back of the LCD
visible.
5:02 p.m.
New subject: Model 100 LCD (was: Re: Needed: rom for Model 100
First stop . . check the cable between the motherboard and LCD
for corrosion or other trouble. I'll let you all know how
that goes. . . .
So far, the cable looks ok. I disconnected it from the motherboard, but
didn't see anything untoward. . .(On the other end, the cable is
permanently affixed to the LCD daughterboard).
I also located the soldered-in nicad, which looked like it was in good
shape. . .the voltmeter said that the battery was putting out 4.2
volts.
So, where do I go from here (I bet that replacement LCD's are floating
around somewhere; on the other hand, I'm willing to bet that there's
little or nothing wrong with that LCD. . .)
Thanks in advance!
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9 comments
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ard＠odin.phy.bris.ac.uk -
jrice＠texoma.net -
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