15 Jul
2011
15 Jul
'11
9:18 a.m.
I just picked-up an ASR-33 today - it looks pretty good. Supposedly low hours.
I need to replace the rubber for the print head - it has turned hard and is cracking.
Is there anything else I need to do before I even turn it on and press a key?
Thanks!
Steven Stengel
15 Jul
15 Jul
1:11 p.m.
steven Stengel wrote:
I just picked-up an ASR-33 today - it looks pretty
good. Supposedly low
hours.
I need to replace the rubber for the print head - it has turned hard
and is cracking.
Is there anything else I need to do before I even turn it on and press
a key?
Well, as a card carrying member of the "trust no one" club, I would
recommend removing the cover (accomplished by removing the screws back
and front (under the name plate if you have one) and don't forget the
screw on the side of the paper tape reader). Give it a good visual
inspection. Make sure the h-plate is correctly in position. Finally,
hand turn the motor through several cycles. If it turns smoothly with
no grinding or other obvious signs of malfunction, then you're probably
good to power it up.
Bill
9:07 p.m.
I just picked-up an ASR-33 today - it looks pretty good. Supposedly low hours.
I need to replace the rubber for the print head - it has turned hard
and is cracking.
Is there anything else I need to do before I even turn it on and press a key?
Yes !
At the very least :
Give the machine a full visual inspaeciton
Look at the lubrication manaul and go over _all_ the oiling points.
Seriously. The lubricant may wel have dried out and you do not want to
wreck the bearrings
Turn it over by hand and check it turns without jamming.
Then, and only then, power up the motor.
-tony
9:58 p.m.
On 07/15/2011 05:18 AM, steven stengel wrote:
I just picked-up an ASR-33 today - it looks pretty
good. Supposedly low hours.
Congrats!
I need to replace the rubber for the print head - it
has turned hard and is cracking.
A great trick that I learned at the (awesome) ASR-33 workshop at
VCF-E is to replace the striker with a piece of vinyl tubing. You can
get it at pretty much any hardware store. Use 7/8"L, 7/16"ID, 5/16"OD
vinyl tubing.
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire
Port Charlotte, FL
16 Jul
16 Jul
5:42 p.m.
A great trick that I learned at the (awesome) ASR-33 workshop at
VCF-E is to replace the striker with a piece of vinyl tubing. You can
get it at pretty much any hardware store. Use 7/8"L, 7/16"ID, 5/16"OD
vinyl tubing.
How does that work? The original rubber hammer is a cap that fits over a
stud on the metal actuator. You surely don;'t put a collar of tubing
around the stud, do you/ If so, what's to stop the end of the stud
hitting the type cylidner?
Or do you somehat put a piece of the tubing as a slever ovr the complete
actuator, puting it on from,the top?
-tony
10:50 p.m.
On 07/16/2011 01:42 PM, Tony Duell wrote:
Yes, this. It works extremely well!
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire
Port Charlotte, FL
A great
trick that I learned at the (awesome) ASR-33 workshop at
VCF-E is to replace the striker with a piece of vinyl tubing. You can
get it at pretty much any hardware store. Use 7/8"L, 7/16"ID, 5/16"OD
vinyl tubing.
How does that work? The original rubber hammer is a cap that fits over a
stud on the metal actuator. You surely don;'t put a collar of tubing
around the stud, do you/ If so, what's to stop the end of the stud
hitting the type cylidner?
Or do you somehat put a piece of the tubing as a slever ovr the complete
actuator, puting it on from,the top?
4986
days inactive
4987
days old
5 comments
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