Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 16:08:16 +1200
From: "Ethan Dicks" <ethan.dicks at gmail.com>
Subject: SMT hobby projects (was Re: group buy for homebrew CPUs?)
On 8/12/06, der Mouse <mouse at
rodents.montreal.qc.ca> wrote:
That
said, the notion that surface mount is somehow "harder to
solder" is nothing but a load of crap. It is DIFFERENT...not harder.
I've never tried surface-mount chips. But I've tried soldering things
of similar size, and for me, yes, it *is* harder.
While parts can slip or be pulled by solder wicking things around, a
few simple tricks (soldering corners of QFPs first, using scotch tape
to hold down a 1206 SMT resistor while soldering one end...) make
things a bit easier.
I put together an IOB6120 (QFP FPGA, 0.5mm-pitch TSOP
FLASH...) with a
Weller iron and no special tools... just solder wick for clean-up, and
a flux pen to help everything flow nice and cleanly. I've also done a
few CF connectors for a couple of Spare Time Gizmos projects (Elf2000
disk board, MP3 player...) To be fair, I wasn't doing it with over-40
eyes, but I expect that someday, I'll have to start using my bench
lens/light for everyday stuff.
I agree with Ethan. Surface mount is different but not necessarily
harder. I find desoldering through-hole to be many times harder than
desoldering surface mount. I *hate* desoldering through-hole
components, if I need to do it non-destructively. If I can destroy
the component in the process it's not as bad, just tedious--very very
tedious.
I've desoldered and resoldered up to 208 pin QFPs so far. I've only
done a couple of those. Mostly I did 160 pin QFPs. But I have not
had a failure yet. That is, the chips always remained functional.
There were one or two times where I had to touch up the soldering job
to get the board fucntional--I sometimes remove too much solder
during clean up.
The trick to surface mount soldering is being aware of how surface
tension can work for you and using it. It's a different set of
habits and way of thinking from through-hole.
I did my 208 pin QFP desolder/resolder with some Chip Quik alloy, a
Milwaukee brand heat gun, modeling clay (to keep surrounding
components from blowing away) a 40 watt and a 15 watt soldering
pencil from Radio Shack and a little bottle of soldering flux with a
brush.
Oh, I guess there was a roll of solder and some spray can flux
cleaner, as well as swabs and alcohol involved. But nothing
expensive or exotic.
Up to about 40 or 50 pins, I don't need the heat gun. The soldering
pencils are sufficient.
For surface mount resistors, I usually tin one pad. Then heat that
pad with a pencil in one hand and place the resistor with tweezers in
the other hand. Hold in place with the tweezers and remove the
pencil so that the solder cools to hold the resistor in place.
For magnification I use a 10X magnifying cup and hold the big end in
my eye socket by squishing it into the skin around the eye, sort of
like a monacle. The last time I checked these were available in the
jewelry section of Ebay for under $5.
Jeff Walther